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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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2.0 

1.8 


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PhotogTciphic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 
WIBSTIRNY    14SI0 

(716)  i/s^soa 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  mry  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checlced  below. 


0 


D 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagAe 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  et/ou  pelliculAe 


□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le 


titre  de  couverture  manque 

loured  maps/ 
Cartes  gAographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue 

Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 

[~n    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 


I      I   Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReliA  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  raliure  serrie  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  cartaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
iors  d'uno  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cala  4tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  «t«  fiim«es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentalres  supplAmentaireS: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normale  de  fiimage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


The 
to  th 


D 
D 
D 
D 


D 
D 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduct;  n  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indlqu4  cl-dessous. 

10X  14X  1IX  22X 


T 


/ 


12X 


lex 


20X 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restauries  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet^es  ou  piqu^es 


□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachies 

□    Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualit*  inigaie  de  I'impression 

□    Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplAmentaire 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seuie  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partieilement 
obscurcies  par  un  feulllet  d'errata,  una  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  At*  fllmies  A  nouveau  de  fa^on  A 
obtenir  la  maMleure  Image  possible. 


The 
posi 
of  t» 
filml 


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beg! 

the 

sion 

oth« 

first 

sion 

or  1! 


The 
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whii 

Mar 
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enti 
beg 
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reqi 
met 


26X 


»X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  cif : 

University  of  British  Columbia  Library 


L'exemplaire  filmi  fut  reproduit  grflce  d  la 
g4n6rosit6  de: 

University  of  British  Columbia  Library 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettatd  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  oric!(ial  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  film6s  en  commen9ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commengant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniare  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  -^-  signifie  "A  SUIVRE ',  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 


Mapfc,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  t  )o  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
film4s  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  an  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mtthode. 


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ITS  HISTORY  ITS  GOLD  FIELDS  ITS  SCENERY 

ITS  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL 


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BY 


HARRY    L.   WELLS 


THK  J.  K.  GlLl.  COMPANY 

PUBLISHKRS 

MASONir  TKMPLE,  PORTI  ANM),  ORKdON 


mm 


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COFYRIGHTKD  BY   HaRRY   L.   WeLLS,   1897 


.Vn:iiioiii,ih  I')  inline  C.im/;tiiy,  /',»i//,i«,i',  <}rf);„n 


f 


INDEX 

CHAPTER  I. 

Pages. 
History  and  Goverunient 5  to  18 

CHAPTER  n. 
Geography.  Climate  and  Resources 18  to  26 

CHAPTER  in. 
Gold  Discoveries  on  the  Yulcou 26  to  31 

CHAPTER  IV. 
General  Conditions  in  the  Gold  Fields 32  to  44 

CHAPTER  V. 

Routes  to  the  Yukon  Mines 45  to  60 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Mines  on  the  American  Side 61  to  64 

CHAPTER  VII. 
How  and  Where  to  Outfit 64  to  72 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Natives,  .Missions  iind   'I'owns 73  to  79 

CHAPTER   I.\. 
The  .Mining  I.nws 79  to  88 


!;^A\Av\'W'^;* 


'-.i 


Qf  \f<ni,noia  J   Statioii  of  tlio  Nortliwost  Trndlns  &  Transiior 
»r,  Miciinois  I  ^latUm  of  the  Alaska  t'omim-rclal  Couimny. 


tatlon  CO) 


Chapter  I 


History  and  Govern mc-nt 


During  the  fifty  years  immediately  fi  Uowii.-r  tlie  discovery  of 
America,  Spain  gained  a  firm  and  lasting  I'.othold  in  tlia  New  World. 
By  tlie  middle  of  tlie  sixteenth  century  she  had  conquered  and  colou- 
'Z'  I  every  portion  of  the  two  continents  in!  iibited  by  Avealthy  and 
semi-civilized  nations,  and  was  enjoying  from  h(;r  new  possessions  a 
revenue  almost  fabulous  in  its  amount. 

In  1513  Balboa  cro.ssed  tlie  isthmus  of  Dariou  and  discovered  the 
South  Sea,  and  in  1520  Magellan  passed  through  the  straits  at  the 
extremity  of  South  America  and  entered  the  Pacific.  In  a  few  years 
the  two  oceaus  were  found  to  be  the  same  body  of  water,  but  it  was 
several  centuries  before  the  I'acific  was  known  to  extend  so  far  north 
as  it  actually  does,  for  no  sail  was  spread  upon  those  northern  waters. 

Wheu  Cortez  completed  the  subjugation  of  Mexico,  he  at  once 
constructed  vessels  on  the  west  coast  for  the  exploration  of  the  Pacific, 
of  whose  vast  expanse  he  had  not  the  slightest  conception.  His  plan 
was  to  coast  northward  and  westward  until  he  reached  the  Indes.  In 
1500  Jasper  Cortereal  had  entered  Hudson's  bay  through  the  straits 
he  called  "Aniau,"  and  when  the  South  sea  was  discovered  a  few 
years  later  it  \vas  talcen  for  gninted  tliat  Hudson's  bay  was  the  same 
body  of  water  and  that  the  straits  of  Anlan  was  a  northern  passage 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  South  sea,  similar  to  the  one  discovered  a  little 
later  by  Magellan.  Tills  error  was  not  exploiled  for  nearly  three  cen- 
turies, and  it  was  due  to  the  persistent  efforts  of  several  nations  to 
locate  this  passage  that  Alaska  was  finally  settletl  and  colonized.  Cor- 
tereal's  error  was  as  soon  discovered,  but  one  Maldonado  claimed  a  lit- 
tle later,  when  ilie  great  widtli  of  Nortli  America  was  more  fully  real- 
ized, to  liave  sailed  in  an  open  North  sea  300  miles  and  then  to  have 
passed  througli  tlie  straits  of  Aniitn  directly  into  the  South  sea. 
Thougii  tills  nllegi'd  voyage  was  uiidoubtedlv  n  myth,  it  kept  the  mari- 
time nations  of  the  ciutli  in  an  intermittent  onest  for  the  much-desired 
passage  for  two  centuiios  and  a  half. 

It  was  to  find  ami  locate  dofiiiit(>ly  (liis  mythical  passage  that  Cor- 
tez planned  lo  skirt  the  mainland  to  the  Indes.  having  no  Idea  whatever 
of  the  great  width  of  tlie  I'acific  ocean.  Ills  plans  were  suddenly 
changed  liy  orders  from  his  sovereign,  tlie  powerful  Cliarles  V..  to  sail 
directly  across  to  the  Indes.  These  orders  were  the  result  of  the  suc- 
cess of  the  Portuguese  In  estnbllslilug  profitable  trade  and  colonies  In 
the  hides  by  tlH>  way  of  Cape  of  (Sood  Hope.  After  several  unsuccess- 
ful exix'dlt  Ions  avross  the  Pacific,  tlio  Philippine  islands  were  subdued, 
and  111  a  few  years  an  enormous  revenue  as  derived  from  this  new 


1 


1,', 


1 1, 


6 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


dependency.  As  a  result,  the  Northern  ocean  was  neglected  for  two 
centuries  by  Spain,  with  the  exception  of  an  occasional  small  expedi- 
tion, the  most  venturesome  of  which  reached  no  farther  than  the  coast 
of  Oregon.  Spain  claimed  exclusive  jurisdiction  or  the  entire  Pacific 
and  the  lands  bordering  upon  it,  and  enjoyed  undisputed  possession  of 
its  commerce  until  English  and  Dutch  privateers,  or  buccaneers,  in- 
vaded It  by  the  way  of  (>ape  Horn  and  preye<l  upon  her  commerce. 
The  easier  to  enter  the  Paclflc,  tor  this  purpose,  the  Northwest  pas- 
sage was  eagerly  sought  by  the  English,  and  the  desire  to  find  it  and 
fortify  its  Pacltlc  end  against  invasion  was  the  ruling  motive  that 
prompted  the  spasmodic  and  fruitless  expeditions  sent  out  by  Spain 
along  the  northern  coast.  Failuri;  led  to  a  practical  abandonment  of 
the  effort  on  both  sides  for  many  years,  until  interest  was  suddenly 
revived  In  it  by  the  movements  of  a  power  i)reviousIy  supposed  to 
have  no  Interest  whatever  in  this  region. 

The  sudden  rise  of  llussla  from  oblivion  to  a  high  rank  among  the 
powers  of  the  world,  a  revolution  wrouglit  by  the  genius  of  Peter  the 
•  treat,  is  one  of  the  nuirvels  of  history.  fJradually  he  extended  ills 
power  eastward  across  the  snowy  wastes  of  Siberia,  until  his  domin- 
ions  were  washed  by  the  waters  of  tiic  Pacific  beating  upon  the  itcnln- 
sula  of  Kamtcliatka.  Having  readied  the  Pacific  lie  became  eager  to 
extend  his  power  still  fartlier  eastward,  until  it  touched  the  western 
conlliies  of  tlie  dependencies  of  England,  France  and  Spain  in  America. 
How  far  that  was,  or  wliat  was  the  nature  of  the  region  coveted,  no  one 
had  the  faintest  knowh-dge.  He  sought  to  find  a  northern  pas.sage  into 
the  Pacltlc.  similar  to  the  one  the  English  were  seeking  In  the  opimslte 
direction,  as  well  as  to  explore  eastward  from  Kamtcliatka.  Hcl'ore 
his  jilans  could  be  executed,  Ik-  died,  but  his  wlilow  and  successor, 
("nllicriiie,  took  nji  the  pmiict,  and  In  1728  sent  Vitus  Helirlng,  a  Danish 
navigator,  from  Kamtcliatka.  He  sailed  iiortliward  until  he  found  the 
<'«)ast  trending  steadily  westward,  and  believing  lie  had  entered  the 
Arctic  ocean,  he  lelunicd.  Neither  going  nor  returning  though  tlie 
straits,  which  were  later  named  in  his  honor,  did  he  see  the  Amerlciin 
coast,  conse(|nently  lie  reported  that  a  great  open  sea  lay  to  the  east- 
wanl  of  Asia,  joining  the  Pacltlc  and  .\nilc  dccans.  During  llio  nc\t 
few  years  several  other  expeditions  wer(>  sent  out.  one  of  them  lundlng 
on  tlic  .Viiierlcan  cmiNt  in  17n2  and  discovering  lliiii  Iml  i\  strait,  and  not 
in:  o|M>n  sen.  connected  the  two  great  oceans. 

In  1741  Ileliring  readied  the  Auierlcan  coast  In  the  vicinity  of 
Mount  St.  Kllas,  christened  by  lilin,  and  went  as  far  soutli  as  latitude 
54  degrees  10  nilniites.  I  poll  Ills  relnrn  voMige  ills  veNsel  was  driven 
nut  of  Its  cotirse,  mid  many  of  the  crew  died  of  sciirvy.  They  laiuled 
upon  Mehrlim's  Isle,  a  Hiniill  speck  iipon  tlie  howoin  of  the  ocean,  con- 
slsllng  of  a  few  giiiiiMe  peaks,  tlinisl  iilio\e  the  sea,  their  sides  coiitiu- 
iioUHly  IiisIumI  Ii\  the  snrf.  Mel'ore  spring  Helirlng  and  thirty  of  his 
followers  foiiiKl  n  grave  amid  those  wiiler  bound  rocks,  rpon  the 
reinrn  of  spring  the  survivors  conslrucied  n  smnll  boiM  ■■rom  the  wreck 
of  their  vonnel,  and  Hticceeded  In  readilng  the  bay  of  Avats<'lia,  on  ilie 
Kiiintdiiilktin  cnnst.     They  had  snhslsled  during  the  winter  U|)oii   the 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


flesh  of  fur-benring  animals,  probujly  seal  ami  seal  otter,  and  the 
skins  had  served  for  beds  and  clothing.  In  thesi  furs  were  the  sur- 
viv^ors  clad  when  they  returned,  and  their  value  led  to  the  dispatch  of 
several  expeditions  by  Russian  traders  in  search  of  furs,  with  the  result 
that  a  large  trade  in  furs  was  gradually  established,  and  Russian  col- 
onies were  established  on  tlie  coast  of  America. 

For  many  years  Alaslca,  or  Allasiia,  was  believed  by  the  Russians 
to  be  the  largest  of  a  group  of  islands,  the  many  long  inlets  penetrating 
the  mainland  being  supposed  to  be  passages  between  islands,  and  this 
error  was  not  disclosed  until  the  explorations  of  the  celebrated  Captain 
Cook  revealed  the  true  nature  c.  the  coast  line  in  1778.  The  Russians 
for  many  years  took  their  furs  to  Avatsclia  and  Ochotsk,  and  sent  them 
thence  overland  to  the  Chinese  market  at  great  expense,  being  unaware 
that  the  ocean  in  which  tlie  fur  Islands  lay  was  tlie  same  great  sea  that 
washed  the  Chinese  coast,  and  could  be  entered  by  tlie  way  of  Cape 
Horn.  This  was  discovered  wiien  some  Polish  exiles  escaped  in  a  ves- 
sel from  the  coast  of  Kamtcliatka  and  reached  Canton,  wliere  they  sold 
at  a  higli  price  furs  they  liad  picked  up  on  tlie  way.  Tlion  for  tlie  first 
time  was  realized  the  great  magnitude  of  tlie  PaciHc,  and  tliat  tlie  same 
waters  beat  upon  Reiiriiig's  isle,  tlio  coast  of  Olilna,  tlie  S|)anish  col- 
onies of  Nortli  and  South  Aiiierlru  and  llie  sunny  islands  of  the  broad 
Soutii  sea. 

Rotli  England  an<l  Spain  liecaiiie  uneasy  about  tlic  progress  Russia 
was  making  on  (lie  nortliern  coast,  and  they  sent  out  several  expedi- 
tions. Tlie  llrst  of  Importance  was  tliat  of  Captain  James  Cook,  who 
sailed  from  England  in  1770.  and  readied  the  const  of  Oregon  in  .Marcli, 
177S,  iiavlug  discovered  tiie  Ihnvaiiaii  islands  tlie  itrevious  .January. 
He  followed  tlie  coast  nortliward  to  Mount  St.  Ellas,  thence  westward 
and  northward  through  lleluiiig's  straits,  Into  the  .Arctic  ocean  as  far 
as  ley  cape,  exploring  all  the  inlets,  and  jirovliig  .Maska  to  he  a  gr<*at 
estern  extension  of  the  mainland  of  .Vmericn,  and  not  a  gioupe  of  largo 
Islaiiil: ,  as  the  Kusslans  believed.  He  proceeded  to  the  Hiiwnlinn 
Islam'*  to  speiitl  the  winter  and  was  there  kl'led  in  a  needless  (juarrel 
with  I  lie  natives. 

T  le  llrst  to  avail  thciiiselvi's  of  the  discoveries  of  Cook  weic  the 
RuhhImis.  Cook's  vo.vngc  opened  Iheir  ey«  s  to  the  mitiiie  and  value  of 
the  fur  regions,  and  they  detennlntMl  to  enter  deeiily  Into  that  which 
they  Iniil  been  simply  sklinniing  for  yciirs.  The  many  Independent 
tnidei'K  who  had  been  making  peilloiis  voyages  among  ihc  Islands  of 
the  .Meutliin  archipelago  eonibined  ami  orgaiil/.ed  a  trading  company 
In  1781.  and  In  I78:i  eslnhllshcd  the  llisi  pcnuiiiicni  siallnii  on  Kadlak 
Island.  Ironi  which  stations  u'radiially  spread  during  succeeding  years 
along  the  islands  and  nuiliiland.  Interest  was  also  stlmulat(>d  In  this 
I'egliin  elsewhere,  and  In  178i;  the  tirst  English  trading  vessel  reached 
the  .Mask.'in  cnast  In  search  of  furs,  I'ullowed  during  tlii>  next  lew 
yt'ttrs  I  y  other  English  and  .\merl<'nn  trading  vessels,  as  well  on  explor- 
ing expeditions  ni'  several  nalloiiy.  In  1  rsi!  I, a  I'ainnsc.  a  I'icnch  nav- 
igator, i>\ploi'e(l  the  sontlieaslcrn  coast,  and  during  that  and  the  follow- 
Ihk  ,vear  I'ortloek  and  IMxoii,  In  llngl'.sli  vessels,  explored  the  coast  iind 


ALASKA,  THF  NEW  ELDORADO 


Cook's  Inlet.  Because  of  this  activity  by  foreigners,  orders  were  issued 
from  St.  retersburg  in  1787  to  talce  possession  of  the  mainland.  At  the 
same  time  Spain  aroused  herself  to  assert  her  claim  of  exclusive  Jur- 
isdiction of  the  Pacific,  and  sent  an  expedition  north  to  see  what  the 
Bussians  were  doing.  This  expedition  visited  Kadinli  island  and  Una- 
laska  in  1788,  and  returned  to  Mexico  with  the  report  that  there  were 
eight  setllenients  in  Alaska,  all  of  tlieni  west  of  Prince  William's 
sound,  while  another  was  about  to  be  establislied  near  tlie  sound  itself, 
which  was  done  that  year  near  the  mouth  of  Copper  river.  These  posts 
were  chellly  occupied  by  natives  of  Siberia  and  Kamtchatka.  It  was' 
also  reported  tliat  the  Russians  were  preparing  to  take  possession  of 
Nootka  sound,  on  Vancouver  island,  and  other  points  far  to  the  south. 
Spain  sent  a  remonstrance  to  Russia  that  lier  subjects  were  encroach- 
ing upon  the  Spanish  dominions  In  the  rnclHc,  and  was  answered  that 
tlic  Russians  were  acting  under  express  directions  of  the  crown.  Moan- 
while  English  traders  hud  taken  possession  of  N'ootka  sound,  on  Van- 
couver Island,  and  in  1789  Spiiin  sent  an  exi)editlon  there,  captured  the 
vessels  of  the  Kngllsli  companies  and  took  possession.  This  almost  led 
to  a  war.  but  the  nuUler  wiis  settled  l)y  the  Nootka  convention  of  1792, 
by  wliich  Spain's  acknowledged  sovereignty  termlnattHl   at   the  Call- 

fornUi  line,  above  which  point  both  Spain  and  England  should  have 
equal  rights. 

Knowledge  of  the  nature  of  the  great  unknown  wilderness  back 
of  theAlaskanllnewas  gained  In  1(87,  wlien  Alexander  Mackenzlemade 
his  famous  .jouniey  1o  the  Arctic  ocean  'oy  the  way  of  (Jreat  Slave  lake 
and  Mackeiizl(>  river,  and  again  In  1791-2,  when  lie  made  the  first  Jour- 
ney overland  to  the  Pacific  l»y  way  of  Peace  river  and  the  Eraser  river. 
From  1790  to  1791  s»>veriil  Spanish,  English  and  American  vessels 
traded  along  the  coast  and  explor<'(l  lli(>  numemus  passages  and  inlets, 
and  from  1792  to  1794  Captain  (icorge  Vancouver,  the  English  Nootku 
eommmlssloner.  explored  the  (Mil Ire  coast  north  of  California  to  the 
head  of  Cook's  Inlet,  and  settled  deilnllcly  in  tli(>  negative  the  (|Uesllon 
oi  a  iiassagc  throiigh  the  northern  continent  betwe»'n  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific,  bt'llef  In  which  had  existed  t'oi  nearly  Ihn'e  centuries.  It  was 
then  realised  fully  that  .Maska  was  a  great  western  extension  of  the 
continent,  deeply  iienetrateil  by  arms  of  th«>  sea  and  its  const  fringed 
with  Innnrierabh'  Islands.  From  this  lime  till  Its  purchase  by  the 
United  Sta<'-N,  .Maska  was  uiidls|iulal)iy  In  tlii'  hands  of  Uussla. 

In  179t»  SliellkolT,  the  most  energetic  of  the  traders,  organised  the 
HliellkotV  company  to  iiionopoll/,e  the  tinde.  and  was  granted  special 
privileges  by  the  government.  11.  helaielT  as  maile  chief  dheclor.  being 
({ovenior  of  t he  entire  I'tu'  region,  and  the  famous  .Mexander  HaranofT 
was  given  charge  of  the  posts  on  UadiaU  Island  anil  Cook's  lidet,  the 
former  beliij:  the  general  liead<|iiarters.  HaranolV  was  made  chief 
director  In  1792.  and  for  nuiny  years  ruled  Alaska  with  an  Iron  hand, 
Inflicting  tiiaiiy  ciuellles  upon  the  natives,  with  whom  he  was  <-on- 
ntanlly  at  war.  and  conducting  lilmsell'  In  a  most  outrageous  and  cor- 
rupt (naniier.  Me  was  fretpiently  complained  of  and  reported  ngalniit, 
nnil  twice  successors  were  appointed,  both  of  tln-m  nu'etlng  with  dlsas- 


ere  issued 
d.  At  the 
lusive  jur- 

what  the 

and  Una- 
here  were 

William's 
uud  Itself, 
hese  posts 
I.  It  was" 
session  of 
the  south. 

encroach- 
vored  that 
[vn.  Mean- 
I.  on  Vnn- 
:)tured  the 
1 1  most  led 
m  of  1792. 

the  Call- 
ould   have 

noss  back 
Mizic  made 
Slave  lake 
lliHt  Jour- 
iisor  rlvor. 
n  vosst'ls 
1 1x1  Inlets, 
di  Nootka 
ihi  to  the 
»  qnoHtlon 
liiiillc  aiitl 
H.  It  waH 
i»ii  of  the 
Ht  ft'ltiKcd 
«'  by  the 
<nIii. 

ini/i>(l  the 
•d  HiM'dal 
tor,  Ix'ltiK 
Hnranorr 
iiili't.  thu 
ndi*  clilof 
t'on  hand, 

WIIH     COII- 

I  iiiid  cor- 
I  aKalUHt, 
'Ith  disas* 


T3 

r- 

ri 
-i 

•7) 


■*-< 

c 
o 

■«-< 

c 

3 


m'u,r^ 


f 


\ 


ALASKiS,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


9 


ter  before  reaching  him.  In  1793  an  imperial  ulvnse  was  issued  author- 
izing the  sending  of  missionaries  and  convicts  to  the  American  colonies, 
and  the  following  year  190  convicts,  two  overseors  and  11  monies  were 
colonized  on  the  coast  near  St.  Ellas,  wliere  tliey  endured  incredible 
hardships,  even  the  monks  being  compelled  to  work  like  slaves.  In  1795 
the  settlement  of  New  Pussia  was  made  on  Beliring,  or  Yakutat,  bay. 
Opposition  to  the  Shelikoff  company  having  sprung  up,  the  government 
cliartored  the  Kussian-Amci'ican  company  for  20  years,  giving  it  control 
of  all  tlie  coast  nortli  of  latitude  55  degrees.  Baranolf  was  made  man- 
ager and  in  consequence  governor  of  the  country,  complc^te  control 
being  in  the  hands  of  the  company.  Thert^was  no  law  except  the  rules 
of  the  company,  and  no  justice  for  the  foreigner  or  native  save  sucli  as 
pleased  liaranoff  to  give. 

Sitka,  tlie  present  capital  of  Alaska,  was  established  l)y  I?aranoff  in 
1799,  in  Sitka  bay,  on  BaranoH"  island,  the  fort  erected  at  that  time 
being  called  Fort  ArcJiangel  (Jiibriel.  English  and  American  vessels 
visited  tlie  coast  and  tlieir  cargoes  were  llie  cliief  source  of  supplies  for 
tlu'  Uusslan  posts.  In  1801  a  settlement  was  establislied  on  SitUa  bay, 
called  New  Archangel,  and  this  was  made  by  IJaranolf  the  headipiarters 
of  tlie  company  and  the  seat  of  government  of  the  colony,  lieing  none 
otlier  lliau  tlie  present  city  of  Sitka.  'I'lie  Astor  settlement  at  tlie 
mouth  of  tlie  Columbia  in  1810  ami  1811  was.  made  in  pursuance  of  an 
agreement  to  sujiply  tlie  Hussian  posts.  For  aiiotiier  source  of  supplies 
BarjMiotr  elTecled  a  settiem(>nt  in  California,  at  Hodega  bay,  built  Fort 
RoH8,  and  establislied  a  colony  to  grow  wheat  and  vegetables.  This 
settlement  was  sold  to  ,lolin  A.  Sutter  In  1841,  wlien  no  longer  neede<l 
by  tlie  Husslaiis.  In  1817  llaranolf  resigned  and  llagennieister  became 
governor. 

In  ISlfi  tlie  first  extensive  explorations  of  tlie  coast  north  of  the 
peninsula  were  iiit.l(>  by  Kot/bue,  whose  name  was  given  to  tlie  great 
Bound  north  of  HcMiring  Htralt.  in  1818  KorsaUolT  crossed  Alaska  on 
foot  from  Cook's  Inlet  to  the  mouth  of  Kushkoqulm  river,  and  Kol- 
hak<  IT  built  a  fort  at  Nusliergak,  on  Bristol  bay.  In  1819  iin|)ortant 
reforms  were  instituted  In  the  government  of  the  company  and  colony. 
At  that  tlmr  tlicre  were  live  sfttli-menls  on  tlie  .Meutlan  Islands,  four 
on  Cook's  lidt  I,  two  on  Cliugacli  gulf  and  one  on  Itaranoll'  island,  llie 
capital.  In  1820  Muravleft'  became  governor,  and  the  same  year  Kuah- 
Uo<liiliii  rhi'i"  was  explored.  In  1S21  the  charter  of  the  company  was 
renewed  for  20  yeais,  and  an  imperial  ukase  was  Issued,  claliiilng  all 
the  etuintry  north  of  latitude  50  degrees.  This  led  t(»  a  remonstrance 
on  the  iiart  of  llie  Fnlted  Stales,  wlileli  nation  luid  purcliased  llie  Span- 
ish claims  in  ISlii,  resulting  in  a  treaty  In  1821,  liiniliiig  Uussian  sellle- 
uientii  to  the  country  nortli  of  latitude  G4  degret's  40  ndniites,  and  giving 
free  trade  privileges  lo  bolli  nloiu;  the  (>nllre  coast.  The  following  yiMir 
a  similar  treaty  was  made  wllli  I'.nglanil.  This  ('(Millned  llie  dispule  for 
poKMesHloii  of  the  country  betweeti  California  and  latitude  54  degrees 
40  minutes  to  Eimhiiid  and  llie  riilleil  Slates,  a  mailer  whicli  was  si't« 
IIihI  by  llie  Irealy  of  184(>.  dividing  llie  disputed  territory  at  tiie  forty- 
titnlli  parallel. 


mm 


•i 


10 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


111  1825  Chistnkoff  became  chief  director,  aud  moved  the  capital 
from  New  Ardiangel  to  St.  Taul,  on  Kadialc  island.  In  1826  Captain 
lieechy,  of  tiie  British  navy,  explored  the  Arctic  coast  of  Alaslja  as 
far  east  as  Point  Barrow.  In  1831  Baron  Wrangell  became  governor 
and  relocated  the  capital  at  New  Ardiangel.  In  1833  Alaslia  ceased  to 
be  merely  a  penal  colony,  and  permission  was  given  to  all  Russian 
subjects  to  reside  there.  The  same  year  Fort  St.  Michaels  was  built 
by  Tebeneff  on  Norton  sound,  80  miles  north  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Yukon,  and  in  1835  the  delta  of  the  Yukon  was  explored  by  Glasunoff. 
The  Stickeen  river,  having  been  discovered  in  1802  by  the  American 
ship  Atahualpa,  and  Wrangell  learning  in  1833  that  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  was  preparing  to  take  possession  of  that  region,  he  estab- 
lished l<'ort  l)yon(!sius  at  its  mouth,  subsequently  called  Fort  Wran- 
gell. This  led  to  complaint  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  Anally 
to  tlie  leasing  of  tlie  fort  by  that  comimny,  from  which  time  the  entire 
interim'  was  dominated  by  the  Engllsli  corporation,  whose  posts  had 
been  extended  nortiiward  to  the  Arctic  and  westward  to  the  Pacific. 

In  183G  Kuprianoft'  became  chief  director.  In  1837  the  Arctic  coast 
from  tlie  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  west  to  I'olnt  Barrow  was  explored 
liy  Dease  and  Simpson,  thus  completing  the  delineation  of  the  entire 
.Vhiskaii  coast.  Fort  Nulato  was  built  on  tiie  Yukon,  but  was  aban- 
doned tlie  same  year  and  was  burned  l)y  tlie  natives.  It  was  rebuilt 
in  1841,  was  captured  and  l)urned  again  in  1851,  and  was  finally  rebuilt 
in  1859.  In  1810  Klolin  became  clilef  director,  and  in  1844  tlie  com- 
liany's  cliarter  was  renewed  for  20  years  from  1842.  In  1843  the  Yukon 
was  ascended  as  far  as  Nowikakat,  and  in  1817  Mc.Murray  built  Fort 
Yukon  near  tlie  nioutii  of  tlie  Porcupine  and  explored  tiie  latter  river. 
In  1848  Wolwodsky  succeeded  Etolin  as  goveruttr.  Tills  year  is  nieni- 
oialiie  as  tlie  lieglmiliig  of  waallng  In  the  Arctic.  Captain  Rays  took 
an  Anieritiin  vessel  tlirougii  the  straits  and  was  so  successful  tiiat  tlie 
following  year  134  .\iiierlcan  wlialiiig  vessels  entered  the  Arctic 
oct'an.  The  llrst  setticiiuMit  made  on  the  Yukon  by  the  Britisli  was  In 
1861,  when  Fort  Selkirk  was  estalilislied  by  Roliert  Campbeil  east  of 
the  141st  iiieridlaii.  wlilcii  had  Iteen  made  tlie  boundary  line  liy  the 
treaties  of  1824  and  1825.  Tlu'  fort  was  burned  by  natives,  but  subse- 
(luentjy  relmllt.  In  IHdO  I'urnlielni  became  governor,  and  the  following 
year  the  exitloraliiMi  of  the  Yuktm  was  completed  liy  Keiiiilcott,  who 
ticscciided  the  stream.  Dissatisfaction  with  the  condition  of  alfalrs  led 
to  a  refusal  l»y  the  c/.ar  to  renew  the  company's  charter  in  18(i2,  and  It 
lust  all  Its  special  privileges,  tlie  result  being  a  practical  suspension  of 
i;o\  ei'iiiiieiit  In  .MasUa  iitilil  IKI)4,  when  .MaksntolT,  tlie  first  imperial 
goverimr,  arrived  in  the  eoloiiy. 

In  1S*!5  the  \\'est«M'n  rnlon  Telegraph  ('(iiiipany  eiiteied  upon  tlio 
ambitious  project  of  connecting  Eurupe  with  the  Fnited  States  liy  a 
lelegrai>li  Hue  thiougli  .Maska  and  Stherla.  It  sent  out  a  large  nuiiiiier 
of  well  eipilpped  expeditions,  wlilcli  expliired  liotli  tlie  .Maskaii  and  the 
Siberian  coasts  and  liiteiior.  and  even  built  a  portion  of  tlie  line,  wiileh 
went  to  waste  w  lien  the  whole  projeil  was  aliandoned  because  of  the 
silcci'NS  of  the   .Mliiiitic  cable.     In   tlie  course  of  this  wiirk    tlie   Yukon 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDOKADO 


11 


I  the  capital 
1826  Captaiu 
)f  Alaska  as 
me  governor 
ka  ceased  to 

all   Russian 
Is  was  built 
louth  of  the 
>y  Glasunoflf. 
le  American 
utlsou's  Bay 
n,  he  estab- 
Fort  Wran- 
,  and  Anally 
le  the  entire 
e  posts  had 
le  Pacific. 
Arctic  coast 
as  explored 
f  the  entire 

was  aban- 
was  rebuilt 
lally  rebuilt 
!4  the  coni- 
I  the  Yukon 

built  Fort 
atter  river, 
ar  is  lueni- 

Hays  took 
ul  tliat  tlie 
I  he  Arctic 
ish  was  in 
ell  east  of 
Ine  by  the 
but  subse- 
'  following 
il<'ott,  who 
iilTairs  led 
S(i2,  and  It 
P<'IihI(iii  of 

I  iniperhil 

upon  tlic 
ales  by  a 
re  iiunilx-r 

II  niKJ  the 
ne,  wlilcli 
INC  of  tlie 
iH>   Yukon 


wasascended  and  desceiuled  and  the  reslon  about  its  mouth  thoroughly 
explored  by  Jones  and  Lukeen  and  others,  and  again  in  1866  Keunicott. 
Ketchum,  Lebarge  and  Lukeen  explored  the  river  from  the  upper  lakes 
as  far  down  as  Fort  Yukon. 

The  next  step  in  the  history  of  Alaska  was  its  purchase  by  the 
Unitetl  States  In  1867,  for  $7,200,000,  through  negotiations  conducted  by 
William  II.  Seward.  The  far-sighted  statesman  was  severely  criticized 
at  the  time  for  his  purcliase  of  barren  rocks  and  snow,  but  he  was  able 
to  show  that  the  fur  trade  silone  was  worth  the  purchase  price,  while 
the  fisheries  Avere  unsurpassed  in  their  possibilities  and  the  mineral 
wealtli  gave  promise  of  great  value,  which  has  been  more  than  fulfilled 
by  the  developments  of  recent  years.  There  is  no  one  now  who  thinks 
Seward  made  a  bad  bargain. 

At  the  time  Alaska  was  purchased  it  had  a  population  of  but  a 
few  Russians  and  mixed  breeds,  besides  the  natives.  Schools  had  been 
established  by  the  government,  under  control  of  the  priests  of  the 
official  (Jreek  churcli,  for  both  the  white  population  and  the  natives, 
but  the  government  was  primitive  anil  autocratic.  Troops  were  sent 
north  to  occupy  tlie  country,  and  ti  military  government  was  estab- 
lished, with  the  capital  at  Sitka,  the  name  given  by  the  Americans 
to  the  old  Russian  town  of  New  Archangel.  For  a  long  time  tlie  colony, 
for  it  could  be  called  nothing  else,  was  neglected  by  congress,  but  its 
growing  imporlaiue  at  hist  compelled  that  body  to  pass  an  act  for  its 
tfoveninu'iit  in  1884. 

In  the  summer  of  1881  a,  convention  was  lu'ld  at  .luneau,  to  take 
steps  to  sfcnii'  a  government  for  Alasl<a.  Tliis  convention  seU'ctetl 
Mottroni  D.  Hall  as  a  deh'gate  to  congress  to  secure  legislation,  lie 
went  to  Wasliington,  and,  tliough  not  admitted  to  a  seat  in  congress, 
ills  presence  did  much  to  attract  attention  to  the  needs  of  that  section 
of  the  country.  For  several  sessions  various  Alaska  bills  wi-rc  before 
congress,  and  . I une  17.  1884,  a  bill  introduced  tlie  year  before  by  Sena- 
tor Reiijamln  Harrison  became  a  law.  Tills  act  provided  for  a  gov- 
ernor, district  judge,  clerk  of  tlie  court,  luarslial.  collector  of  I'ustoms, 
and  four  cdmiiilssioncrs,  since  liicicnscd  to  live,  one  to  reside  in  each 
of  the  chief  towns,  and  all  to  be  aiipoinlcd  by  llic  president.  SliUa  was 
made  tlie  capital  and  |thice  of  otllciiil  residence,  also  a  laud  office. 
Tlie  laws  of  Oregon  were  made  aiipllciible  to  Mie  district.  .Hid  an 
Oregon  judge  was  appointed  to  administer  tlieiii.  The  law  proliibited 
the  culling  and  export  of  timber,  liie  Ivlllliig  of  fur  si'iils,  except  by 
the  company  with  wlilcii  tlic  geveiiiiiu'iil  liail  a  contract,  and  fla* 
lmp(»rtatlon.  nianufaciuie  or  snle  uf  litpior.  W  iih  the  excei»tlon  of 
occasliM'iil  cniillsi  alloiis  by  the  <  olleitor.  the  li(|uor  law  has  been  a 
dead  leller,  as  great  (luantiiics  of  wlilsliy  ai><l  beer  liave  been  smug- 
gled ill.  and  saloons  run  openly  In  every  town,  from  wliich  the  govern- 
iiieiil.  witli  lis  usual  Inconsisieiiey,  collects  a  revenue  license.  Tills 
matter  of  liipior  has  been  an  Important  one  ever  since  the  fur  trinle 
with  the  natives  began,  Xow  thai  the  wlille  men  are  ]tonrlng  Into  that 
region  in  large  iniiiihers  ||   may  lie  called  senled.     They  will  demand 


Cffi 


J 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


18 


^         r-. 


the  same  right  to  drink  and  sell  liquor  enjoyed  by  their  brethren  in 
other  territories,  and  the  next  Alaslia  act  will  undoubtedly  grant  it  to 
them,  reserving  only  the  prohibition  against  selling  liquor  to  Indians. 

This  act,  thougli  a  vast  improvement  on  a  merely  military  govern- 
ment, was  not  such  as  the  growing  needs  of  the  counti'y  required. 
By  1890  the  white  population  had  increased  to  4900,  chiefly  along  the 
coast,  and  in  the  next  few  years  this  was  nearly  doubled  by  the  devel- 
opment of  the  mines  and  fisheries,  especially  by  the  opening  up  of  the 
placer  mines  along  the  Yulion.  The  rush  of  the  present  year  has 
almost  doubled  it  again,  with  prospect  of  much  more  than  doubling 
another  year.  Conditions  have  so  radically  changed  that  a  regular 
territorial  government  can  not  much  longer  be  denied  to  Alaska. 

After  the  act  of  1884  was  passed  efforts  were  continued  to  secure 
a  better  form  of  government.  In  1888  the  democrats  sent  two  dele- 
gates to  tlie  democratic  national  convention,  and  they  were  seated. 
In  1889  tlie  republicans  held  a  convention  at  Juneau  and  sent  Minor  W. 
Bruce  to  Washington  with  a  memorial  to  congress  and  as  a  member 
of  the  republican  national  committee.  From  that  time  both  parties 
gave  Alaslva  representation  in  their  conventions. 

The  misunderstanding  and  contentions  regarding  the  laws  that  are 
applicable  to  Alaska,  so  far  as  lands  and  claims  are  co:  i  erned,  have 
been  set  at  rest  by  a  statement  by  Commissioner  Binger  Hermann,  of 
the  general  land  ottlce.  Many  inquiries  on  this  question  have  come  to 
the  attention  of  the  department,  and  numerous  applications  have  been 
made  for  copies  of  the  public  land  laws  which  apply  to  Alaska.  The 
general  laud  office  has  taken  much  Interest  in  the  reports  from  the  gold 
belt  and  has  investigated  the  laws  that  govern  them.  Mr.  Hermann 
says  there  is  no  longer  any  question  about  what  laws  extend  to  Alaska, 
and  that  those  laws  are  applicable: 

First — The  mineral  land  laws  of  the  United  States. 

Second— -Township  laws,  which  provide  for  the  incorporation  of 
townships  and  acquirement  of  title  thereto  from  the  United  States 
government  to  townsi'lp  trustees. 

Third — The  laws  providing  for  trade  and  manrifacturos,  and  giving 
each  qualilliMl  person  IGO  acres  of  laud  in  a.  square  and  compact  form. 

The  coal  lands  regulations  are  distinct  from  the  mineral  regula- 
tions or  laws,  and  tlio  jiu'lsdictlon  of  noithor  coal  laws  nor  public  land 
law  extends  to  Alaska,  the  territory  being  expressly  excludetl  by  the 
laws  tlioniselvos  from  Hielr  operation.  Tlie  act  approved  May  17,  1884, 
providing  for  civil  governuicnt  of  Alaska,  has  this  language  as  to 
mines  and  mining  privileges; 

"The  laws  of  the  United  States  relating  to  mining  claims  and 
rights  inddiMital  thereto  shall  on  and  after  the  passage  of  this  act  be 
m  full  force  and  elTect  in  said  district  of  Alaska,  subject  to  such  reg- 
uli'tions  as  may  he  made  by  the  secretary  of  the  Interior  and  ap- 
proved by  tlie  i)resident,  and  jiarties  wlio  have  located  mines  or  mining 
prlvilv^ges  tliereon,  under  tlie  United  States  laws  applicable  to  the 
public  viomain,  or  have  occupied  or  improved  or  exercised  acts  of  own- 


14 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


0  ■  ; 


ership  over  such  claims,  shall  not  be  disturbed  therein,  but  shall  be 
allowed  to  perfect  title  by  payments  provided  for." 

There  is  still  more  general  authority  without  the  special  authority. 
Tlie  act  of  July  14,  1886,  says: 

"All  valuable  mineral  deposits  in  lands  belonging  to  the  United 
States,  both  surveyed  and  unsurveyed,  are  hereby  declared  to  be  free 
and  open  to  exploration  and  purchase,  and  lands  in  which  they  are 
found,  to  occupation  and  purchase  by  citizens  of  the  United  States,  and 
by  those  who  have  declared  an  intention  to  become  such  under  the 
rules  prescribed  by  law  and  according  to  local  customs  of  rules  of 
miners  in  the  several  mining  districts,  so  far  as  the  same  are  applica- 
ble and  not  inconsistent  with  the  laws  of  the  United  States." 

The  patenting  of  mineral  lands  in  Alaska  is  not  a  new  thing,  for 
that  work  has  been  going  on  for  some  time.  In  addition  to  the  land 
office  at  Sitka  one  will  be  established  at  Circle  City. 

CANADIAN  GOVERNMENT. 

The  fact  that  the  gold  fields  of  the  interior  lie  partly  in  Canada  and 
partly  in  the  United  States  much  complicates  tl-.e  situation.  The  Brit- 
ish Columbia  line  extends  some  distance  north  of  the  southern  line 
of  Alaska,  so  that  all  the  interior  south  of  that  line  is  subject  to  the 
laws  of  that  province.  North  of  tliat  line,  including  the  entire  Yukon 
region  not  in  the  United  States,  lies  in  the  Northwest  Territory,  which 
Includes  that  vast  region  of  British  America  lying  north  of  the  organ- 
ized provinces.  This  territory  is  governed  by  regulations  promulgated 
by  the  Canadian  government,  which  has  adopted  mining  regulations 
for  it  as  given  at  length  in  this  volume.  In  1894  a  detachment  of  20 
mounted  police  was  dispatched  to  the  Yukon  country,  under  command 
of  Inspector  Constautiue,  who  established  posts  at  Fort  Cudnhy  and 
Forty-Mile,  and  proceeded  to  enforce  the  Canadian  regulations  and 
collect  customs  duties.  The  next  year  a  regular  customs  collector  was 
appointed.  Since  the  great  rush  began  the  present  year  additional 
police  and  customs  officers  have  been  sent  to  the  Yukon  district,  and 
Major  .Toseiili  Walsh  has  been  appointed  administrator  and  made  prac- 
tically governor  of  that  district,  wldle  a  judge  has  been  appointed  to 
liold  court  and  admlnl»iter  the  civil  and  criminal  laws  until  the  Canad- 
ian parliament  can  take  action.  The  office  of  the  gold  commlssionei', 
wliore  all  locations  must  be  made  and  llconaes  secured,  is  at  Dawson 
City,  thougli  it  is  possible  brandi  otllcos  may  soon  be  located  else- 
where. 

CANADIAN  DUTIES. 

One  of  tlie  first  steps  taken  by  tlie  Canadian  government  wi>en  the 
rush  to  tlie  Klondike  l)egan.  was  to  send  customs  officers  to  collect 
(hilicson  all  goods  taken  in.  Tlils  was  not  done  'n  a  spirit  of  hostility 
to  llie  itrospcclors,  nor  woi't'  any  special  duties  imposed.  It  was  simply 
the  same  cITcn't  on  tlie  part  of  (lie  Canadian  officials  to  enforce  the  reg- 
ular laws  of  tliiit  comitry  that   were  lieing  nia(l(>  liy  similar  American 


I 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


16 


but  shall  be 

ial  authority. 

►  the  United 
id  to  be  free 
ich  they  are 
i  States,  and 
ih  under  the 
of  rules  of 
are  applica- 
tes." 

;w'  thing,  for 
1  to  the  land 


Canada  and 
1.  The  Brit- 
louthern  line 
ibject  to  the 
mtire  Yukon 
ritory,  which 
)f  the  organ- 
promulgated 
r  regulations 
[hnient  of  20 
er  command 
Cudahy  and 
jlatious  and 
ollector  was 
additional 
district,  and 

made  prac- 
ippointed  to 

the  Canad- 
mimlssiouer, 

at  Dawson 
oontod  olse- 


it  WlUMl  tlio 
s  to  oolloct 
of  hostility 
was  simply 
I'ct'  the  rog- 
V  AmtM'iciui 


officials.  Customs  collectors  were  hastily  sent  in  over  the  Chilcoot  trail 
to  Lalie  Tagish,  where  they  established  a  station  for  the  collection  of 
duties  on  all  goods  talten  past.  This  duty  has  not  been  collected  upon 
the  personal  wearing  apparel  or  a  reasonable  quantity  of  supplies  taken 
in  by  individuals  for  their  own  ,use,  but  has  been  levied  upon  every- 
thing taken  in  for  trade  or  in  quantities  beyond  the  legitimate  needs  of 
the  owners  for  a  reasonable  period.  The  names  of  all  persons  who 
refuse  to  pay  the  duty  are  forwarded  to  the  mining  commissioners  at 
Dawson,  and  all  such  persons  will  be  denied  the  privilege  of  locating 
claims,  even  if  their  outfits  are  not  confiscated.  An  American  entering 
the  Northwest  territory,  whether  by  one  of  the  overland  routes  or  by 
steamer  on  the  Yukon,  must  be  prepared  to  pay  duty  on  the  stuff  he 
takes  in  and  pay  it  in  cash.  The  reverse  is  true  of  all  persons  entering 
Alaska  from  the  Canadian  side,  since  it  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  the 
American  collector  of  customs  and  his  deputies  will  be  less  energetic 
in  enforcing  the  revenue  laws  of  the  United  States  than  are  the  Canad- 
ian oflScials  with  the  laws  of  that  country.  The  following  are  the 
duties  levied  by  Canada  upon  the  chief  articles  going  into  the  mining 
region : 

Per  cent, 
ad  valorem. 

A  yea,  hatchets,  shovels,  spades,  picks,  etc 25 

Baking  powder,  6c  per  pound. 

Bed  comforts  32% 

Blankets,  5c  per  pound,  and  25 

Boats  and  ship  sails  25 

Boots  and  shoos  and  rubber  boots 25 

Breadstuffs,  grain,  flour  and  meal,  all  kinds 20 

butter,  4c  per  pound. 

Candles ...  28 

Cartridges  and  ammunition  30 

Clieese,  3c  per  pound. 

Cigars  and  cigarettes,  $2.00  per  pound,  and 26 

Clothing 

Socks,  10c  per  dozen  pairs,  and 35 

Knitted  goods  of  every  description 35 

Ready-made,  partially  of  wool 30 

Water-proof  clotliing   35 

Cotton  knitted   goods 35 

Duck,  from   20  to 30 

Fur  caps,  capes,  coats,  muf[s,  etc 25 

Jerseys,  knitted    35 

Linen  clothing  : 32^As 

Oiled  doth    30 

Sacks  or  bags   •  ...  20 

Coft'ec,  foudoused   30 

Rousted,  2('  per  pound,  and 10 

.Sulistitulfs,  2c  per  i)()UU(l. 

Extracts,  3c  per  pound.  ,     ,^ 


TH^ 


(;  i 


t  ': 


16 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


Condensed  milk,  3c  per  pound. 

Crowbars  35 

Cutlery  35 

Dogs   20 

Drugs   20 

Earthenware  30 

Edged  tools   35 

Fire  arms  20 

Flour,  wheat,  75c;  rye,  50c  per  barrel. 

Fish  hooks  and  lines 25 

Fruits,  dried 25 

Prunes,  raisins,  currents,  Ic  per  pound. 

Jellies,  jams,  preserves,,  3c  per  pound. 

Furniture 30 

Galvanized  iron  or  tinware 30 

Hardware  32i^ 

Harness  and  saddlery   30 

Horses   20 

Lard,  2c  per  pound. 

Maps  and  charts  20 

Meats,  canned  25 

In  barrels,  2c  per  pound. 

Oat  meal  20 

Pipes,  tobacco  35 

Pork  in  barrels,  2c  per  pound. 
Potatoes,  15c  per  bushel. 

Potted  meats  25 

Powder,  raining  and  blasting,  2c  per  pound. 
Rice  ,l%c  per  pound. 

Samills,  portable    30 

Sugar,  64-lOOc  per  pound. 

Surgical  instruments    15 

Tents 32% 

Tobacco,  42c  per  pound,  and 12^^ 

THE  BOUNDARY  QUESTION. 

A  controversy  exists  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Brit- 
ain as  to  the  boundary  line  between  Alaska  and  Canada.  In  the  Yukon 
country  lhi.s  is  only  a  question  of  survey  and  is  of  little  importance, 
but  in  Southern  Alaska  It  Involves  the  construction  of  a  treaty  and  If 
settled  according  to  the  claim  of  Great  Britain  would  take  from  the 
United  States  a  strip  of  land  along  tlio  coast,  Including  the  wonderful 
tourist  attraction  of  Glacier  bay  and  several  such  starting  points  for 
the  inteilor  as  Taku,  Dyea  and  Skaguay. 

The  treaty  made  In  1825  between  Russia  and  England,  referred  to 
in  the  previous  chapter,  defined  the  boundary  line  according  to  the 
somewhat  imperfect  geographical  knowledge  of  the  time.  This  treaty 
flxetl  the  starting  point  at  the  south  end  of  Prince  of  Wales  Island,  In 


35 
35 
20 
20 
30 
35 
20 

25 
25 

30 

30 

32% 

30 

20 

,20 
,25 

,20 
,35 

,25 

.30 

.15 

.32% 

.12% 


Great  Bi-it- 
[n  the  Yukon 

importance, 
treaty  and  if 
ilie  from  the 
le  wonderful 
ig  points  for 

referred  to 
rding  to  the 

This  treaty 
les  Island,  in 


CO 


<U 

<u 
■(3 


£ 

E 

3 
(/) 

<u 

JS 


Z 


'Jf  'W 


ti 


*   I 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


17 


latitude  54  degrees  40  lulnutes,  the  line  thence  to  run  north  along  the 
channel  of  Portland  canal  as  far  the  point  of  the  continent  where  it 
strikes  the  56th  degree  of  north  latitude,  following  thence  the  summit 
of  the  mountains  parallel  with  the  coast  to  the  point  of  intersection 
with  the  141st  degree  of  west  longitude,  thence  following  that  meridian 
to  the  Arctic  ocean.  It  Is  especially  provided  that  wherever  the  sum- 
mit of  the  mountains  parallel  to  the  coast  shall  be  more  than  10  marine 
leagues  from  the  ocean,  the  line  shall  run  parollel  to  the  windings  of 
the  coast  and  never  exceed  the  distance  of  19  marine  leagues  there- 
from. This  is  what  constitutes  the  controversy.  The  British  claim  Is 
that  Behm  canal  was  really  Intended,  Instead  of  Portland  cauol,  as 
the  southern  line,  since  the  Portland  canal  is  east  from  the  starting 
point,  and  pot  north,  as  specitled  In  tlie  treaty,  and  that  the  10  marine 
leagues  should  be  measured  from  the  main  cluinncls  of  water  and  not 
from  the  heads  of  Inlets  as  measured  by  the  United  States.  Tlio  differ- 
ence in  the  Hues  the  acceptance  of  the  construction  now  given  to  the 
treaty  by  England  would  proiluce.  Is  clearly  shown  on  the  accompany- 
ing map.  It  is  so  Important  that  much  dittlculty  will  be  experienced 
In  adjusting  tLe  matter.  As  to  the  boundary  in  the  Yukon  legiou,  it 
Is  only  a  question  of  accurate  location  of  tlie  141st  meridian,  which 
runs  due  north  from  the  summit  of  Mt.  St.  Ellas.  Of  the  location  of 
this  meridian  tJencral  Dutlleld,  superintendent  of  the  coast  and  geo- 
detic survey,  says: 

"The  location  was  made  ou  the  north  at  Porcupine  river  by  our 
su'weyors  and  In  the  vi<"lnity  of  tlie  Yukon  l)y  the  Canadians  under 
Ogllvie,  tnut  their  work  there  ciieckod  by  our  men.  We  found  tliat 
where  Ogilvle's  line  crossed  Forty-Mile  creek  It  wns  six  feet  and  nlno 
Inches  too  f.ir  east,  and  when  it  crossi'd  the  Yukon  it  was  618  feet  too 
far  west.  Tims  It  may  be  seen  that  tlic  line  as  located  by  Oglhie  la 
substantially  (•t)rrect.  There  Is  no  possibility  of  an  error,  the  correc- 
tlo  I  of  nhlcl)  would  put  the  new  gold  regions  In  American  territory. 
At  tlien<'an>Ht  point  Dawson  City  Is  5U  nilh>s  on  the  Caiiaillan  side  of 
the  Ogilvlo  line.  If  the  treaty  now  before  the  senate  providing  for 
tlx'iig  the  boudary  Is  ratilled,  a  comiiiission  will  be  an;  fluted  ti>  per- 
form this  duty.  It  Is  considered  more  ilian  pmbable  that  tlie  Ogllvie 
survey  will  be  accepted." 

YT'KON   MMl.  SKUVKK. 

The  UnlttHl  States  postotllce  department  has  issui'd  an  ordn  estab- 
lishing an  exchange  of  malls  between  Dyea,  Alaska,  nud  Dawson  City, 
Canada,  bciclnidrg  Se|iteniber  I'O.  rroin  Dyea. 

Th(<  iiiailH  III  i|ncsll(in  hIwiII  ruiitain  only  litters  ami  postal  cards, 
to  the  exclusion  of  nil  other  articles.  The  mall  niatle  np  ni  the  olllce 
at  Dyen  for  (lie  ollhe  at  Dhwmom  Clly  shall  ((tiitaln  IcIIcim  and  postal 
cards  add! t'SHcd  for  delivery  at  any  place  In  ilie  YuUtui  dlslrh-t  of  Cni»- 
ada,  and  tl>  nxills  made  up  at  the  olllce  tif  Dawson  City  for  the  oHlee 
of  Dyea  shall  cuniain  letters  and  postal  cards  addressed  for  delivery 
at  any  plm  e  In  the  rniled  Slates. 


UP  up* 


mmmmm 


>i  I 


18 


ALASKA.  TIIK  NEW  ELDORADO 


This  Is  the  forninl  announfemeut  of  tlK>  innugurntioii  of  the  new 
postal  service  in  tht»  pihl  region,  whleh  has  been  established  through 
an  ani'eenieiit  between  tliis  country  and  Canada.  Tiie  contract  for  per- 
forming the  ser  ice  will  be  let  by  tlie  Canadian  government,  the 
United  Slates  i)a.ving  the  latter  for  Its  share  of  the  expenses,  l)ased  on 
tlie  stretcli  of  .Maslcan  territory  tlie  roule  traviMscs. 

No  newspapers  can  be  got  tliougli  tliis  winter,  and  all  mailed  will 
be  held  there  until  tliey  can  be  sent  in  by  way  of  St.  Miciiaels  in  tlie 
spr'ng. 

In  tlie  summer  montiis  llieit-  will  lie  regular  mail  st'rvice  for  botii 
letters  and  p  pers  by  tiic  way  of  St.  -dicliaels  to  Circle  City,  and  prol)- 
al»ly  arrangi'ments  will  lie  made  to  liave  an  inten  liange  of  mail  be- 
tween Circle  City  on  tlie  .Masiia  side  of  llie  line  and  Dawson  City  on 
the  (^anadian  side. 

It  is  exjiected  fliat  tiie  Canadian  government  will  open  up  an  en- 
tirely new  mail  route  liy  way  of  tiie  Sliclveen  river  and  Lalie  Teslln 
next  year.  For  the  (-arrying  of  tlie  mail  by  tlie  prcs(>nt  agreement,  a 
large  luunber  of  trained  dogs  will  be  taken  In  from  the  Iludscm's  Hay 
('omi)any  jiosts  along  the  Mai  keii;:'e  and  at  otiier  points  in  tiie  extreme 
north. 

The  I'ldted  States  has  a  regular  iiiali  •  iite  between  .Inneau  and 
(Circle  City,  by  ..ay  of  Ciiilivoot  pass,  liy  wliicii  only  letters  .-ind  pcistai 
cai'ds  are  taken,  'i'lds  leaves  .luneau  tin'  first  of  cacii  monlli.  tiic  new 
Canadian  service  leaving  in  tlie  middle  of  the  monti'.  Tliere  are  at 
pr«'seiit  no  re<'elving  and  tllstrilmliug  otlices  in  tiie  interior  excejit 
Circle  City  and  Dawson,  Itul  several  will  no  doultt  soon  be  established. 


Chapter  II 


Goo^mphy.  Climate  and   Resources 


I 


Alaska  Is  a  vast  wilderness.  It  Is  a  great  westward  projection  of 
the  tiorthei'ii  end  of  tlie  North  .Vnierjcan  continent.  The  mainland  Is  al- 
most sipiare  in  shape,  except  wliere  II  Is  projected  to  the  souHiwest  in 
H  long  iietilnsnla  b  Iween  llie  I'Metlie  <H-ean  and  HelirIng  sea,  the  peniii- 
NUla  being  supplemented  by  the  long  line  of  .Meiitlan  Islands,  until  tiie 
farthermost  point,  the  Island  of  Attn,  tlie  extreni  western  limit  of  the 
Unlte^l  States.  Is  2000  inllt'M  west  of  Sitka,  Kveii  the  Ilawalhiii  ImIhiuIn 
do  not  exieinl  as  far  west  as  the  limits  of  .Maska.  Wlien  the  sun  goes 
down  at  .\ttu  It  has  already  risen  on  the  eastern  border  of  Maine,  and 
thus  It  never  sets  on  the  doiuHln  of  the  I'l  .le<l  Htaten, 

The  art>a  of  .Maska.  by  which  name  Is  deslgmited  only  that  por- 
tion of  tlie  country  belonging  to  the   I'nited   States,   h  fll7.70.1  Mtpnire 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDOKADO 


19 


n  of  the  new 
islioil  through 
itrnct  for  per- 
•('ninunit,  the 
isos,  bused  on 

ill  ninilod  will 
loluu'ls  in  the 

ivice  for  both 
ity,  iind  i»rob- 
('  of  mail  b(>- 
iwson  City  on 

[icn  lip  iui  ('II- 

I  Liilvo  TfsUn 
iijii't'ciiH'iil,  a 

Hudson's  Hay 

II  tlio  cxtreiue 

II  .liiiit>aii  and 
'I'M  and  postal 
onlli.  tlic  in'\v 
Tlicro  are  at 
iteiior  except 
w  t'sialillshcd, 


jtrojeetion  of 
wiiidaiiil  Is  al 

sinit Invest  in 
ca.  th<>  penln- 
nds.  until  the 
11  limit  of  the 
vallan  IslandH 

the  Hini  KiM'N 
>r  Malii*>,  and 

iiily  that   por- 
IW.TO.I  scpiare 


miles,  of  which  580,107  are  on  the  niainlnnd.  Tlie  Aleutian  islands 
have  ii  total  of  6391  miles,  and  tiie  ^I'eut  Alexandrian  arcliipelago. 
that  mass  of  large  and  small  islands  bordering  the  coast  of  Southeast- 
ern Ahisl<a.  lias  31.205  stpiare  iiiiies.  Tiie  coast  line  is  a  very  tortuous 
one  and  is  deeply  indented  with  inlets,  so  tliat  the  total  lengtli  of  the 
coast  lin«'  is  26,000  miles,  or  2000  more  mile,  than  the  circumference  of 
tiie  eartli.  It  was  lliese  ioiig  inlets  and  tiie  numerous  large  islands 
fringing  tiie  coast,  that  led  tlie  early  Uussiaii  exiilorers  and  traders  to 
l)elieve  tiiat  tills  entire  region  was  one  vast  groupc  of  islands,  of  whicli 
the  one  tliey  called  "Aliaslva"  was  tii(>  hirgcst.  It  is  chiefly  ui»  m  tiie 
ishmds  and  tiie  adjacent  mainland  tliat  settlements  liave  lieeii  made 
up  to  liie  present  time,  tin-  vast  interior  liaving  remained  almost  un- 
known until  tlie  magic  power  of  g(dd  began  to  transform  it  into  a 
Mecca  for  its  worsiiippers. 

Tiie  Coast  range  of  mountains  so  familiar  fartlier  soutii  raises  a 
high  and  icy  barrier  between  tlie  coast  and  the  Interior,  their  summits 
Iteing  but  a  few  miles  from  tiie  sea.  terminating  at  tiie  angle  wiiere  tlie 
coast  line  turns  westward,  in  a  series  of  Alpine  peaiis,  of  wliieli  St. 
Ellas  is  tiie  best  known,  though  Mount  T^ogan,  .lust  to  the  nortii  of  it.  is 
said  liy  Scliwatiia.  wiio  inade  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  aseend  St. 
Ellas,  t(»  be  a  few  hundred  feet  iiigiicr.  St.  Ellas  was  ascended  tiie 
past  summer  by  Prince  Luigi  and  a  party  of  Italian  alpimn'rs.  guidtHl 
li.v  Americans,  and  its  iielght  was  ascertained  to  be  18,100  feet.  On 
the  coast  south  of  St.  Ellas  and  Logan  are  the  I'airweatlier  .\lps.  con- 
sisting of  four  peaks  from  10,000  to  16.()()0  feel  high.  Wrangel,  another 
liigh  peak,  said  to  have  an  altitude  ex<'cediiig  20.000  feet,  lies  fartlier 
Into  the  interior,  to  tlie  northwest  of  St.  Ellas  and  in  tlie  Copper  river 
region.  Fartlier  to  tlie  south,  on  an  Island  opposite  Sitka,  is  .Mount 
Edgeciiiiib.  one  of  the  earliest  landmarks  named  by  explorers  and 
originally  called  San  .Faclnto  by  flie  .*<panisli  explorers. 

Ill  this  .Mpliie  region  there  are  a  iiiuitilude  of  treiiieiidoiis  glaclerM, 
soiiuMif  them  terminating  at  the  water's  edge  aiul  eonstantly  dropidiig 
tiielr  frozen  od'erings  Into  the  sea.  Tlie  best  known  of  these  are  the 
Miilr  and  T'lividson  glaciers,  because  tliese  are  visited  by  tlie  tourist 
Mteaniers.  (ilacier  bay,  the  ternilinil  of  the  tourist  nuiti'.  Is  a  Uuig  arm 
of  tiie  sea  exteiidli'g  far  Inland  Immeillately  east  of  tlie  Kalrweatlier 
Alps.  At  the  head  of  Miilr  Inlet  lies  the  tremendous  Mulr  glacier,  its 
green  wall  of  ice  rising  like  a  rock  cliff  abruptly  from  the  water  and 
far  above  the  deck  of  the  vessel  that  ventures  iie.ir  Us  b;ise.  This 
river  of  lee  tlows  steadily  downward.  Its  progress  being  marked  i»y  the 
huge  leebergs  that  break  from  It  with  the  detonation  of  artillery  and 
plunge  Into  the  sea,  throwing  the  water  high  Into  the  air.  I'liese  great 
ice  masses  lloat  about  tlie  bay  and  out  Into  the  ocean  until  gradually 
melted,  and  tlie  steamer  that  takes  pleasure-seekers  to  the  foot  of  this 
great  moving  wall  of  Ice  must  thread  its  way  carefully  among  tliese 
floating  islands,  (ilaeler  bay  Is  the  terminus  of  the  tourist  route  to 
Al  iska,  which  lies  contlniionsly  along  tlie  sheltered  Inner  passages  be- 
tween the  Islands  ami  mainland,  like  the  navigation  of  an  inland  lake, 


m5^ 


i  I 


20 


ALASKA,  TPIE  NEW  ELDORADO 


and  In  constant  view  of  some  of  cue  grandest  scenery  the  world  con- 
tains. 

Under  the  influence  of  the  Japan  current  and  protected  somewhat 
by  the  coast  mountains,  the  islands  and  the  narrow  strip  on  the  main- 
land between  the  mountains  and  the  sea  have  a  much  milder  climate 
than  the  bleak  Interior.  The  rainfall  is  heavy  and  timber  and  grass 
grow  luxuriantly.  In  the  Interior  timber  grows  to  much  smaller  size 
and  only  near  the  lakes  and  water  courses,  while  the  climate  is  far 
more  severe. 

Alaska  is  divided  almost  in  the  middle  by  the  great  Yukon  river, 
flowing  from  the  eastern  border,  with  a  great  sweep  to  the  north  as 
far  as  the  Arctic  circle,  and  then  to  the  southwest,  into  Behring  sea  at 
Norton  sound.  It  is  one  of  the  great  rivers  of  the  world,  being  3200 
miles  long,  and  for  a  long  distance  above  its  mouth  extremely  wide,  its 
delta  being  60  miles  wide,  and  at  places  hundreds  of  miles  inland  It 
broadens  out  to  a  widtli  of  10  miles,  and  yet  it  is  navigable.  The  river 
and  its  numerous  large  tributaries  luive  a  total  lengtli  for  light  draft 
river  steamers  of  an  unknown  length,  throuji  probably  not  less  than 
4000  miles.  The  Yukon  heads  in  Northwest  Territory,  Canada,  its  chief 
sources  being  the  Pelly  river,  flowing  west  from  the  Rocky  mountains, 
and  the  Lewis  river,  flowing  nortli  from  llie  lakes  near  the  coast  east 
of  .funeau.  The  junction  of  llii's»>  two  rivers  forms  the  Yukon  proper, 
2044  ndles  from  the  sea.  the  I'elly  being  600  miles  long  and  the  Lewis 
and  connecting  lakes  .357.  'I'aUlng  the  Telly  as  the  main  stream  the 
total  lenglli  of  the  Yukon  would  exceed  3200  miles.  The  drainage  area 
is  more  than  600,000  siitiare  niUes.  Tlie  Yukon  is  not  the  only  large  river 
of  Alaska.  Tarallel  to  It  for  liundriMls  of  miles  on  the  south,  and  also 
entering  Helulng  sea.  Is  the  great  Kuskoiiuim  river,  also  navigable. 
Flowing  Into  K<>l/.liue  sound,  north  of  Helirliig  strait,  are  the  Nowak 
and  Noatak  rivers,  while  several  rivers  of  unknown  length  flow  Into 
llie  Arctic  ocean,  one  of  ilicni  said  to  lie  of  great  size.  A  number  of 
rivers  tlow  southwanl  Into  the  raclllc,  the  longest  of  which  are  Copjier 
river  near  I'rlnce  William  snuiid.  and  >Vhite  river,  between  St.  Ellas 
and  I'alrweather,  Imili  navigable  lor  some  distance.  Flowing  west- 
ward Into  the  eliiiiiiiels  along  the  .Vlexandrlan  archipelago  are  the 
Taku  and  the  Stiekeen.  both  navigable.  Tlu>  last  four  rivers  are  alt 
possible  routes  Into  the  Interior. 

The  Interior  of  Alaska  Is  a  region  of  rolling  table  land,  mountains 
and  valleys,  where  grass  grows,  flowers  bloom  In  luxuriance,  moss 
abouiMls.  and  blnls  sing  by  the  thonsaiHls  In  suninier  time,  while  In  tlie 
winter  a  mantle  of  snow  covers  the  entire  country  and  the  streams  and 
lakes  are  locked  with  Ice,  The  scene  of  wonderftil  beauty  which  en- 
chants the  traveler's  eye  In  the  »<M'Miner.  as  he  Is  borne  on  the  bosom 
of  the  ndghty  river  by  the  throbbing  steamboat.  Is  transformed  In  u 
few  weeks  into  a  vast  w  IhlerneNs  of  white,  njion  which  tlie  sun,  hang- 
ing low  along  the  southern  horl/.on  or  dlpiilng  entirely  below  It,  seenm 
reluctant  to  ga/.e. 


he  world  con- 

;ted  somewhat 
)  on  the  main- 
miUler  climate 
ber  and  grass 
h  smaller  size 
climate  Is  far 

t  Yukon  river, 

)  the  north  as 

Behring  sea  at 

rid,  being  3200 

!mely  wide,  its 

uiles  inland  it 

ble.    The  river 

for  ligiit  draft 

'  not  less  than 

mada,  its  chief 

?ky  mountains, 

the  coast  east 

Yukon  proper, 

and  the  Lewis 

iln  stream  the 

drainage  area 

nly  large  river 

outh,  and  also 

so  navigable. 

e  the  Nowak 

gtli   flow   into 

V  numl)er  of 

ell  arc  Copper 

•  ■(Ml  St.   Kllas 

"lowing   w(»«t- 

Ingo   arc   the 

ilviTK  are  all 

lid.  n\niintalns 
urinnce,  moss 
',  \vldl(>  in  the 
Htrcains  ami 
iit.v  wlilili  cn- 
on  the  bosom 
isfornwMl  In  a 
lie  HUH,  bang- 
low    it,   MCCIUH 


m 


i 


ff 


ir '; 


"  ■! 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


21 


THE  CLIMATE. 

No  more  reliable  or  succinct  statement  of  the  climate  of  the  various 
districts  of  Alaska  can  be  found  than  the  special  bulletin  issued  by 
Willis  L.  Moore,  chief  of  the  weather  bureau,  of  the  department  of 
agriculture.    It  is  as  follows: 

The  general  conception  of  Alaskan  climate  is  largely  due  to  those 
who  follow  the  sea,  and  this  is  not  strange  wlien  we  consider  the  vast 
extent  of  shore  line  (over  26,000  miles)  possessed  by  that  territory. 
The  climates  of  the  coast  and  the  interior  are  unlike  in  many  respects, 
and  the  differences  are  intensilied  in  tliis  as  perhaps  in  few  other 
countries  by  exceptional  pliyslcal  conditions.  The  natural  contrast 
between  land  and  sea  is  liere  tremendously  increased  by  tlio  current 
of  warm  water  that  impinges  on  the  coast  of  British  Columbia,  one 
branch  flowing  northward  toward  Sitka,  and  thence  westward  to  the 
Kadiak  and  Shumagln  Islands.  The  fringe  of  Islands  that  separates 
tlie  mainland  from  the  Pacilic  ocean  from  Dixon  sound  northward,  and 
also  a  strip  of  the  mainland  for  possibly  20  miles  back  from  the  sea, 
following  the  sweep  of  the  coast  as  it  curves  to  the  uortliwestward  to 
the  westward  extremity  of  Alaska,  form  a  distinct  climatic  division 
which  may  be  termed  temperate  Alaska. 

The  temperature  rarely  falls  to  zero;  winter  does  not  set  in  until 
about  December  1,  and  by  the  last  of  May  the  snow  has  disappeared, 
except  on  the  mountains.  The  mean  winter  temperature  of  Sitka  Is 
32.5  degrees,  but  little  less  than  that  of  Washington.  D.  C.  While  Sitka 
Is  fully  exposed  to  the  sea  Influences,  places  farther  inland,  'but  not 
over  the  coast  range  of  mountains,  as  KiUlsnoo  and  Juneau,  have  also 
a  mild  temperature  througliout  tlie  winter  months.  The  temperature 
changes  from  month  to  month  In  tempei'ate  Alaska  are  small,  not  ex- 
ceeding 25  degrees  from  midwinter  to  midsummer.  The  average  tem- 
perture  of  July,  the  warmest  month  of  summer,  rarely  reaches  55 
degrees,  and  the  highest  temperature  for  a  single  day  seldom  reaches 
75  degrees. 

The  rainfall  of  temperate  Alaska  Is  notorious  the  world  over,  not 
only  as  regards  the  (luantlty  that  falls,  but  also  as  to  the  manner  of  Its 
falling,  viz:  In  long  and  InceHsant  rains  and  drizzles.  Cloud  and  fog 
naturally  abound,  there  being  on  an  average  but  66  clear  days  In  the 
year. 

Alaskii  Is  a  liiiid  of  striking  contrasts,  both  In  climate  as  well  as 
top()grai)liy.  When  the  sun  shines,  the  atmo8i)here  Is  remarkably  clear, 
the  scenic  effects  are  magulflcetit,  all  nature  seems  to  be  In  holiday 
atllie.  Hill  (he  scene  may  change  very  <pilckly;  the  s'  y  bet-onics  iiver- 
cast;  (li(>  winds  Increase  In  force;  rain  begins  to  fall;  the  evergreens 
sigh  ominously,  and  utter  desolation  and  loneliness  ])revall. 

N«»r(liof  the  .Meutlan  Islands  the  coast  climate  becomes  more  rig- 
orous In  winter,  but  in  sninmer  the  difference  Is  much  less  nuirked. 
Thus,  at  St.  Michaels,  a  short  distance  above  the  mouth  of  the  Yiikou. 
the  nieiin  suiiinier  lempcratuic  Is  50  degrees,  but  I  degrees  cooler  than 
Sitka.     The   mean   sunnucr   temperature   of    roint    Harrow,   the   most 


22 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


northerly  point  in  the  United  States,  Is  36.8  degrees,  but  four-tenths  of 
a  dei<ree  le«8  than  the  temperature  of  the  air  flowing  across  the  summit 
of  Pike's  peak,  Colorado. 

Tlie  rainfall  of  the  coast  region  north  of  the  Yukon  delta  is  small, 
diminishing  to  less  than  10  Inches  within  the  Arctic  circle. 

The  climate  of  the  interior,  including  in  that  designation  practi- 
cally all  of  the  country  except  a  narroAv  fringe  of  coastal  margin  and 
the  terri^^ory  before  referred  to  as  temperate  Alaska,  is  one  of  ex- 
treme rigor  in  Avinter,  with  a  brief  but  relatively  hot  summer,  especi- 
ally when  the  sky  is  free  from  cloud. 

In  the  Klondike  region  in  midwinter  the  sun  rises  from  9:30  to  10 
A.  M.  and  sets  from  2  to  3  P.  M.,  the  total  length  of  daylight  being 
about  four  hours.  RenuMubering  that  the  sun  rises  but  a  few  degrees 
above  the  horizon,  and  that  it  is  wiioUy  obscured  on  a  great  many 
days,  the  character  of  the  winter  months  may  easily  be  imagined. 

We  are  indebte<l  to  the  Fnited  States  coast  and  geodetic  sxirvey 
for  a  series  of  six  months'  observations  on  the  Yukon,  not  far  from  the 
site  of  tlie  present  gold  discoveries.  The  observations  were  made  with 
standard  instruments,  and  are  wholly  reliable.  The  mean  te!npera- 
tures  of  the  months  0<tol)er.  1889,  to  April.  1890,  both  inclusive,  are 
as  follows:  October.  33  d«'grees  above  zero;  November,  8  degret's 
above  zero;  l>(>cember.  11  degrees  below  zero;  January,  17  degrees 
below  zero;  February.  15  degrees  Ijclow  ztro;  March,  6  degrees  above 
zero;  April,  29  degrees  above  zero.  The  daily  mean  temperature  fell 
and  remained  below  the  freezing  point  (32  degrees)  from  November  4, 
1889,  to  April  21,  1890.  thus  giving  168  days  as  the  length  of  the  closed 
season,  1889-90,  assuming  tliat  outdoor  operations  are  controlled  by 
teuiiieriitnre  only,  l)elng  suspended  when  tlie  daily  mean  falls  to  or 
below  the  freezing  point. 

Tiie  lowi'st  temperatures  registered  during  the  winter  were: 

Tlilrty-two  degrees  l)ei<)\v  in  Noveiiil)er:  47  degrees  below  zero 
in  December;  .'59  degri'es  behtw  zero  in  .lanuary;  55  degrees  below  zero 
in  Fel)ruary;  45  degrees  lielow  zero  in  ^lareh;'  26  degrees  below  zero 
in  April. 

'I'lie  greatest  continuous  colli  occurred  in  February.  1890,  when  the 
daily  mean  lor  five  consecutive  days  was  47  degrees  lu'l«»w  zero.  The 
wcatlier  nuxieiated  sllglitly  tlie  tlist  of  Marcli.  but  tlie  temperature 
still  remained  lielow  tlie  freezing  iiolnt.  tJeiierally,  cloudy  weatlier 
prevailetl,  there  being  but  tliree  consecutive  days  in  any  month  with 
clear  weatlier  during  tlie  wliole  winter.  Snow  fell  on  about  one-third 
of  tlie  days  in  winter  ,and  a  less  number  in  the  «'arly  siiring  and  late 
fall  months. 

(iieater  cold  llian  tliiit  liere  noted  has  been  exi)erleni'ed  in  the 
Tiilted  Sti^tes  for  a  very  sliort  time,  lint  never  lias  It  cunliniied  so  very 
cold  for  so  long  a  time.  In  the  Interior  of  .VlasUa  the  winter  s(>ts  In  as 
early  as  September,  wlieii  snow  storms  may  be  expected  In  the  moun- 
tains and  passes.  Headway  during  one  of  tiiese  storms  is  Impossible, 
and  the  traveler  who  Is  uvertaiien  by  them  Is  indeed  fortunate  If  lie 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


23 


i  four-tenths  of 
OSS  the  summit 

delta  is  small, 
cle. 

Ignatlon  practi- 
tal  margin  and 

is  one  of  ex- 
iummer,  especi- 

from  9:30  to  10 
daylight  being 
:  a  few  degrees 
a  great  many 
le  imagined, 
geodetic  survey 
lot  far  from  the 
ivere  made  with 
mean  te?npera- 
h  inclusive,  are 
uljer,  8  degrees 
ary,  17  degrees 
6  degrees  above 
temperature  fell 
)ni  November  4, 
til  of  the  dosed 
e  controlled  by 
leiin  falls   to  or 

Iter  were: 
■t'cs   below    zero 
trees  below  zero 
rees  l)elow  zero 

1890.  when  the 
elow  zero.  'I'he 
lie    tfUiperuture 

loudy  wen  I  her 
ny  month  with 
iiboul  one-third 
si)ring  and  lute 

erlenctMl  in  tlie 
inllnued  so  very 

Inter  sets  In  as 
•d  In  the  moun- 
s   is  impossible, 

fortumit*'  If  he 


escapes  with  his  life.  Snow  storms  of  great  severity  may  occur  in  any 
niontn  from  September  to  May  inclusive. 

The  changes  of  temperature  from  winter  to  summer  are  rapid, 
owing  to  the  great  Increase  In  the  length  of  the  day.  In  May  the  sun 
rises  at  about  3  A.  M.  and  sets  about  9  P.  M.  In  June  it  rises  about 
1:30  in  the  morning  and  sets  at  10:30  P.  M.,  giving  about  20  hours  of 
daylight  and  diffuse  tAvillght  the  remainder  of  the  time. 

The  Inean  summer  temperature  of  the  interior  doubtless  ranges 
between  60  to  70  degrees,  according  to  the  elevation,  being  highest  in 
the  middle  and  lower  Yukon  valleys. 

RESOURCES   AND  DEVELOPMENT. 

When  Alaska  was  purchased  not  even  the  statesniiin  wlio  negotiated 
the  ti'eaty  and  bore  patiently  the  sarcasm  of  his  countrymen,  realized 
the  value  of  the  acquisition.  He  knew  tliat  tliere  were  resources  of 
timber,  fish,  furs  and  minerals  of  great  value,  but  die<l  before  their 
partial  development  proved  tliem  to  be  so  far  beyond  ids  greatest  ex- 
pectations. In  addition  to  the  gold  ndnes,  tlie  chief  resources  are  as 
follows: 

The  humid  climate  of  the  coast  district  of  Southeast  Alaska  pro- 
motes a  strong  growth  of  thnber  on  the  islands  and  a  narrow  strip 
along  the  nuiinland.  Spruce,  liendock  and  red  and  yellow  cedar  are 
the  leading  varieties,  the  trees  growing  to  very  large  size.  The  yellow 
cedar  is  especially  valuable  for  furniture  and  linislilng.  Along  the 
coast  west  of  Sitka  the  tUnber  Is  smaller  and  less  valuable.  In  the  in- 
terior the  thnber  n(>ar  the  mouth  of  the  Yukon  and  otiier  streams  is  of 
a  fair  size,  but  diminishes  as  distance  is  gained  inland.  It  is  chiefly 
spruce,  Cottonwood,  alder  and  willow  tiiat  grows  along  the  water 
courses  and  hikes.  Fir  timber  of  go<Ml  size  Is  also  fomid  to  a  conshl- 
erable  extent.  Little  use  has  yet  been  made  of  the  timber,  except  for 
local  i>urposes  along  tlie  coast,  but  the  demand  in  the  mining  districts 
has  become  so  great  that  several  small  sawmills  have  been  sent  up 
there  this  year,  yet  doiddless  much  lumber  for  use  there  will  continue 
to  be  .sent  from  Portland  and  other  points  on  the  lowt'r  coast. 

Coal  has  been  found  In  several  places,  biit  coal  measuri's  have  not 
yet  been  ope:i«'(l  up.  The  most  promising  veins  yet  found  are  near 
Kllllsno<(,  or  ("hickagott'  island.  Other  discoveries  are  on  Inga  Island, 
Cook  Inlet,  Lituga  bay  and  Chilkat  river,  the  most  extensive  being  on 
<'(K>k  inlet.  The  coal  Is  bitumlniuis  and  of  a  good  Muallty.  On  the  side 
of  Hi'hrlng  sen  coal  has  been  found  on  Herendeeii  bay,  and  some  of  it 
has  been  shipped  by  the  Ahiskan  Conimerclal  Company  to  Inalaska 
and  found  to  be  of  excellent  tpniUty.  At  Cape  Sabine,  on  the  Arctic, 
coal  has  been  found  nnd  iioth  the  Thetis  and  Corwin  irnveniiiient  v(>s- 
sels,  have  mined  coal  there  for  their  own  use.  Coal  now  used  in 
Alaska  Is  brotight  from  Krltlsli  Colnmbln  nnd  Pugel  souikI.  Petroleum 
has  been  found  in  a  number  of  places,  but  no  devehipmenis  have  been 
undertaken. 

The  fisheries  have  already  nsstnned  Inrge  proportions  nnd  iirondse 


T" 


I  1l! 


24 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  EEDORADO 


greatlj'  to  increase.  The  rnitert  States  flsh  commission  has  reported 
100  varieties  of  lish  in  Alnsliaii  waters,  tlie  most  important  of  which  Is 
the  salmon.  The  icing  salmon,  nnioh  illve  the  chluoolc  of  the  Columbia 
river,  is  from  20  to  50  pounds  in  weight,  sometimes  100  pounds,  and 
the  silver  salmon,  8  to  15  pounds.  The  salmon  swarm  in  all  the  rivers, 
and  canneries  are  located  in  many  places,  Kadiak  island  being  the  seat 
of  the  greatest  industry.  Tlie  canneries  all  belong  to  a  combine,  ex- 
cept those  in  tlie  extreme  soutli.  The  Alaskan  output  of  canned 
salmon  is  about  500.000  cases  annually. 

Cod  abound  along  the  const,  a  number  of  fine  banks  having  been 
located.  Several  flrms  are  engaged  in  catching  and  shipping  codfish. 
Halibut  is  also  caught  in  large  quantities  uad  marketed  fresh,  dried 
and  smoked.  Herring  abound  in  great  schools  and  are  an  important 
part  of  the  food  supply  of  the  natives,  a  tisli  of  the  smelt  variety, 
called  oolichon,  or  candle  fish,  enters  the  rivers  in  immense  numbers. 
They  are  very  oily,  and  when  dried  will  burn  like  a  candle.  The 
natives  express  a  fine  quality  of  oil  from  them,  as  they  also  do  from 
the  herring  and  dogfish. 

The  hair  seal  abounds  in  great  numbers  and  constitutes  an  Im- 
portant part  of  the  food  supply  of  the  Indians.  The  beluga,  or  white 
grampus,  whale  Is  also  captured  by  the  natives,  the  skin  being  valua- 
ble for  ropes,  boats,  etc.  The  walrus  abounds  In  Behring  sea  and  the 
Arctic,  but  is  fast  being  exterminated.  Its  skin  and  tusks  are  both 
valuable.  The  black  whale  has  been  chased  by  whalers  Into  the  Icy 
fastnesses  of  the  Arctic  ocean,  and  has  been  almost  exterminated. 
So  many  whaling  vessels  are  lost  that  the  government  has  established 
a  rescue  station  at  Point  Barrow,  the  most  northerly  point  of  Alaska. 

An  important  resource  is  the  fur  seal,  which  resorts  each  summer 
in  immense  numbers  to  the  Pribalof,  or  Seal  islands,  in  Behring  sea, 
for  breeding  purposes.  Tlu!  government  has  a  contract  with  a  com- 
pany, by  which  only  100,000  seals  may  be  killed  on  tliose  islands  an- 
nually, and  less  if  the  secretary  of  the  treasury  so  directs,  while  all 
others  are  prohibited  from  killing  seals  at  all.  except  in  the  open  sea 
beyond  the  Jurisdiction  of  the  government,  which,  by  arbitration  agree- 
ment, extends  50  miles  around  the  Islands.  A  large  fleet  of  vessels 
follows  up  the  herd  from  as  far  down  as  tli  coast  of  California  every 
spring,  and  kills  many  thousands  of  them,  while  during  the  summer 
they  hover  about  the  Islands  and  kill  many  more.  The  complete  ex- 
termination of  the  fur  seals  is  threatened,  unless  better  international 
regulations  for  their  protection  are  agreed  upon. 

Another  valuable  amphibious  animal  is  the  sea  otter,  found  in  the 
ocean  along  the  entire  coast.  By  no  means  so  plentiful  as  the  seal,  It 
is  far  more  valuable,  Iniilvldunlly.  a  single  skin  often  being  worth  $150. 
They  have  several  times  been  supposed  to  have  been  exterminated, 
but  in  a  few  years  liave  reappeared  again.  The  land  otter,  a  far  less 
valuable  animal,  Is  the  most  abun<lant  of  all  fiir-bearlng  animals  in 
Alaska,  except  the  fox.  The  licaver,  once  abundant ,  has  now  become 
quite  scarce  and  Its  fur  Is  not  In  so  nnicli  demand  as  50  years  ago. 


f\ 


'^ 


has  reported 

;' 

at  of  which  Is 

1 

the  Columbia 

1 

)  pounds,  and 

i 

all  the  rivers, 

J 

being  the  seat 

1 

combine,  ex- 

^"A 

ut   of   canned 

1 

s  having  been 
ippiug  codfish, 
d  fresh,  dried 
an  important 
smelt  variety, 
ense  numbers. 
I  candle.  The 
'  also  do  from 

itutes   an    Im- 

luga,  or  white 

n  being  valua- 

ig  sea  and  the 

:usks  are  both 

[•8  into  the  icy 

exterminated. 

las  established 

>int  of  Alaska. 

each  summer 

1  Behring  sea, 

t  with  a  com- 

se  islands  an- 

pcts,  while  all 

the  open  sea 

iti-ation  agree- 

(H't  of  vessels 

liifornla  every 

tho  summer 

complete  ex- 

internatioual 

,  I'ouud  In  the 
ns  1h(>  seal,  it 
im  wortli  $150. 
cxtonnliiated, 
l(>r.  a  far  loss 
ijr  animals  in 
ii(»\v  become 
curs  ago. 


I 


I 


Devil's  riiunib,  on  the  lourist  Rome. 


ir'"^* 


tri'i 


I 


ii'i, 


' 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


25 


Of  the  bear  family  there  are  several  varieties,  the  brown  bear  be- 
ing the  most  widely  distributed.  They  are  fiei'ce  fighters  and  are  not 
hunted  much,  as  their  skins  are  not  very  valuable.  The  black  bear  is 
found  in  the  timbered  regions  and  mountains.  His  skin  is  valuable 
and  he  is  less  dangerous  to  hunters.  The  white,  or  polar,  bear  is 
found  along  the  Arctic  coast.  Several  varieties  of  foxes  contribute 
much  to  the  fur  market,  the  most  numerous  and  most  widely  dis- 
tributed being  the  red  fox,  though  the  least  valuable.  The  black  or 
silver  fox  is  the  one  most  highly  prized  for  his  fur.  He  attains  a  large 
size  and  his  habitat  is  the  mountains  of  the  interior.  Ho  varies  in 
color  from  silver  to  jet  black.  The  blue  fox  is  a  highly-i)rized  variety, 
found  on  the  Aleutian  islands,  ■where  he  is  propagated  for  his  fur. 
The  silver  fox  is  extremely  valuable,  and  is  found  in  the  Yukon  region. 
The  white  fox  is  found  along  the  coast  of  Behrlng  sea  and  the  Arctic. 
The  cross  fox  is  a  mixture  of  the  red  and  others. 

The  mink  abounds  along  the  rivers  of  the  interior  and  on  the 
coast.  In  the  forest-covered  mountains  the  lynx  and  gray  and  white 
wolves  are  plentiful.  Wolverines  are  found  in  the  lake  and  Yukon 
regions.    Muskrats,  rabbits  and  marmots  are  abundant  everywhere. 

Deer  abound,  especially  in  Soutlieastern  Alaska,  but  they  have 
been  so  rutlilcssly  slaughtered  for  their  hides  that  they  are  in  danger 
of  being  exterminated.  In  the  Yukon  country  moose,  cariboo  and  deer 
are  found  of  large  size.  In  the  Alpine  regions  of  the  coast  mountains 
the  mazama,  or  American  chamoise.  and  mountain  sheep  are  found. 

In  the  summer  of  1892  Minor  W.  Bruce,  acting  as  an  agent  of  the 
government,  imported  170  reindeer  from  Siberia  and  established  a 
breeding  station  at  Poi*t  Clarence,  near  Behrlng  strait.  The  purpose  of 
this  was  to  supply  a  reserve  of  food  for  the  Eskimos,  who  were 
threatened  with  starvation  in  the  Avinter  time,  owing  to  the  extermina- 
tion of  the  walrus,  wild  reindeer  and  whale,  their  chief  food  supply. 
This  herd,  by  natural  increase  and  now  Importations,  has  swelled  to 
1800  animals,  other  stations  having  been  established  at  Point  Barrow. 
Cape  Nome  and  Galovin  bay.  Dr.  Sheldon  Jackson,  a  well  known 
Alaska  missionary,  was  the  promoter  of  this  reindeer  project.  It  Is 
now  proposed  to  utilize  these  animals  for  transportation  purposes  in 
the  Yukon  country  during  the  winter  season,  both  for  carrying  the 
mail  and  in  hauling  supplies.  The  revenue  cutter  Bear  has  been  di- 
rected to  convey  twenty  of  them  from  Port  Clarence  to  St.  Michaels 
this  fall,  and  they  may  play  an  Important  part  In  the  work  of  sending 
relief  into  the  overcrowded  mines  this  winter.  The  reindeer  can  lUid 
subsistence  by  digging  roots,  moss  and  grasses  from  f'e  frozen  snow, 
and  tlius  lias  a  great  advantage  over  both  dogs  and  horses,  besides 
being  mucli  swifter  of  foot. 

N()w  tliat  Alaska  is  gaining  so  rapidly  in  population,  tiie  question 
of  agriculture  is  l)e<'omlng  an  important  one.  .V  government  commis- 
sion has  been  appointed  to  investigate  and  report  upon  the  agricnltiu'al 
possibilities  of  that  region,  and  tliis  report  will  doiil)tless  be  siibmltted 
to  congn'ss  at  its  next  session.     Experiment  stations  will  probably  be 


PTTS? 


!!      .i 


!|'!:;j* 


26  ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDOKADO 

established  as  a  result  of  this  report.  Coiulitions  seem  favorable  for 
siK'li  oereals  and  vegetables  as  mature  (julckly.  Even  in  the  Yukon 
region  summer  vegetables  may  be  grown.  The  (luestion  of  stock-rais- 
ing is  also  an  important  one.  Tlie  islauls  along  the  coast  supply 
abundant  food  for  stock,  but  the  cold  rains,  sleet  and  raw  winds  are 
hard  upon  animals,  especially  sheej),  and  little  success  lias  been  met 
with  thus  far.  It  is  believed  tliat  cattle  nuiy  be  raised  in  the  interior, 
as  nutritious  grasNOs  and  mosses  abound. 


Chapter  III 


Gold  Discovery  on  the  Youkon 

Till'  most  authentic  data  of  tlie  discovrcy  and  working  of  the 
Vuktiii  gold  phiccrs  in  llic  interior  of  Alaska  is  llial  gatliered  l>y  Harold 
B.  Goodridi,  of  llic  riiilc<l  Stat«'s  (Jeological  Survey,  whose  account 
■•il)pears  as  a  portion  of  tlic  otliclal  report  of  ,1.  10.  Spurr,  wlio  was  direc- 
tor of  ll'c  expedition  w''iili  iiM-enliy  returned  from  tlie  Yukon  i-ountry. 

According  to  this  rep(M't.  a  Uussian  exploring  back  of  Sitka  early  in 
tin  .•eiitii.y  found  seveiai  pieces  of  ritii  iniartz,  Imt  llniiiiioft',  llie  gov - 
crnor  and  manager  of  liie  fur  company,  did  not  want  any  uiining  car- 
ried on,  and  ordered  the  tinder  of  tlic  <>•«>  to  stop  prospecting.  Not  until 
18(13  was  any  iirospecting  done  In  tiic  Interior.  I'oiiowliig  tlic  I'raser 
river  excitciuent.  in  1858.  and  th<>  i>|iening  of  liie  Cassiar  mines  a  little 
later,  gold  pl.ic»'r»  were  discovered  and  worked  on  tlie  Stickeeu  river, 
yielding  ^10  pc  day  lo  tlie  iiiiiii.  In  ISdH  W.  1".  lUakc  began  prospect- 
ing on  tliat  sin.-iiii,  laid  after  going  r>0  miles  up  the  river,  came  to 
the  conclusion  that  "there  is  every  reason  to  lielleve  that  the  gold  re- 
gion of  tile  Interior  extends  along  tlie  moniitaiiis  to  the  shores  of  tlii> 
I,y  sea.  and  is  thus  connected  wllli  tlie  gold  regions  ot   .\sla." 

Soon  aflcrwartls  the  tinding  of  minute  specks  of  gold  by  .some  of 
tl'c  Hudson  May  roiiipany'H  men  on  the  \  nkon.  In  the  virlnlty  of  I'mt 
Selkirk,  was  reported,  but  ilic  netal  was  not  In  (piantltles  sutllilent  to 
warrant  a  rush  to  tlie  hx'ality.  In  ISti!)  Ketclniin  and  I.alxirge.  m*>m 
bets  of  the  Western  I'lilon  telegraph  expedition,  as  I'lided  the  Yukon 
and  ftiund  evidences  ot  gold  on  the  upper  river.  'I'hese  were  casual 
observations,  liowever,  and  It  was  not  tiilli  ISTfi  that  systematic  pro»- 
pecilng  tor  the  yellow  sltitl  was  lieijun  Ity  (ieorge  Holt.  He  brought 
to  llic  c'wist  glowlnr  accounts  of  eoaise  gold  on  the  np|icr  Lewis  river, 
Tlie  Indians  nnirdeied  him  later  on. 

Other  reports  of  the  same  kiml  starled  a  rush  for  the  Interior  ity 
miners  and  prospectors.  The  (Udy  practicable  routes  lay  (tver  the 
passes  In  tlie  Coast  range  of  mountains.  Tlirre  were  foi,i  of  liiese 
piiHses.  but  I'hllkiHit   pass,  though  excessively  rough  and  Mltlicidt,  wits 


"a. 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDOKAUO 


m 


favorable  for 
in  tlip  Yukon 
of  stock-rais- 
coast  supply 
iw  winds  are 
lias  bi'cn  met 
11  tlie  interior, 


irkinj;  of  tlio 
•('(1  hy  Harold 
liose  ac'onnt. 
lio  was  direr- 
iiivon  country. 
Sitka  early  in 
iiolT,  tlie  go\- 
\'  U)lidnK  <  in- 
ig.  Nut  unill 
H  the  Kraser 
mines  a  little 
li(  Ueeii  river. 
nun  i>rospeel- 
vei',   ciiMie    to 

llie  Hold  r«' 
■liiores   (if   liie 
<ill." 
i    liv    sitiiie   (if 

illy  of  I'orl 
<  MMlHrlenl   ti) 
hiu'ue,    mem 
il   the   Yukon 

were  easual 
Irinillle   |iros- 

lle  liriiuuhi 

Lewis  river. 

Interior  'ly 
ay  over  I  lie 
oi.i  of  these 
illllenll,  was 


nearly  always  preferred.  From  time  immomorial  the  Indians  of  the 
coast  had  maintained  a  monopoly  of  trade  with  so  called  Stick  Indians 
of  the  Interior.  In  bartering,  tlie  latter  were  permitted  to  come  as  far 
as  Chilkoot  pass,  where  tiiey  were  niet  by  the  coast  Indians.  The  posi- 
tion of  tie  latter  as  intermediaries  between  the  whites  and  the  Indians 
of  the  interior  was  very  jirotttalile  to  tliem,  and  their  monopoly  delayed 
the  development  of  the  country  for  several  years.  In  1879,  however, 
they  for  the  first  time  permitted  tlie  whites  to  enter,  and  the  removal 
of  the  embargo  resulted  in  the  discovery  of  jfold-bearing  hnlges  near 
TuKU.  Tile  interior  of  Alaska,  wliieli  jireviously  had  been  tern,  in- 
cognita, was  tlius  tiirowu  ojien.  and  f  "oni  this  time  dates  tlie  develop- 
ment of  tlie  gold-mining  Industry. 

In  1881  four  miners  crossed  tlie  pass  and  prospected  the  Big  Salmon 
river.  They  reported  gold  the  wliole  length  of  that  stream.  In  the 
following  year  a  well-organized  expedi'^lon  atteniptiHl  to  prospect  the 
Yukon  from  the  other  end.  In  .luiie  llie  itarty.  ('onslsting  of  4[)  men 
under  the  leadersiiii»  of  Edward  and  Eff  Seliieffelin  bougiit  a  steamer 
and  Jiscenih  ,'  the  Yukon  as  far  as  Nuklukayet.  wliere  tliey  wintered. 
They  prosiiecled  many  sniiill  creeks  and  rivers,  and  found  some  gravel 
liars  tliat  yielded  $10  a  day  per  man.  In  tlie  jirospect  every  pan  sliowed 
gold.  Hut  the  conclusion  drawn  was  tlijit  the  country  would  never  pay 
lor  iiiliiing  opei'alioiis  on  ai-coiuit  of  llie  severity  of  the  wlnlei's  iiiid  llie 
short iicss  of  llie  o|nMi  season.  This  trlji  is  interesting  mainly  iiei  tnise 
it  resulted  ill  the  llist  re;iorl  of  gold  111  riiiled  Slates  lerrllory,  all  the 
former  prospecting  loins  liavi'ig  l«"eii  in   Hrltlsh   I'dssessjons. 

In  tlie  fall  of  188:{  some  miners  lironcht  Into  .lunei'.ii  $1000  of  coarse 
gold,  whli'h  they  said  <!iiiie  from  tlie  N'likon.  'I'lils  ciiiised  great  exclte- 
iiieiii,  tiiid  In  the  follow  liig  spring  tlieic  was  a  rush,  over  'MM  men  cross- 
ing llie  mountains.  A  couple  of  years  later  the  rush  was  still  coiillnu- 
iiig.  and  two  men  cleared  up  $:!."). 000  liy  "rocking"  on  a  bar  alioni  100 
miles  from  the  himuIIi  ol'  Stewart  river.  'I'lie  idcker  i  ■.  the  same  thing 
as  the  ('aliforiila  cradle  a  liottoniless  box  set  on  rockets  and  divided 
into  three  compiirtmciiis.  'l"he  gravel  Is  llirown  Into  the  upper  com- 
pai'imeiil  and  liy  selling  tlie  rocker  In  iiiollon.  Is  sifted  lliroiigh  a  sheet- 
Iron  mesh  into  ilie  lower  eo  <ii»arlnieiit.  In  wliicli  a  cloth  calclies  the 
liner  siind  iind  gold  and  strains  the  water.  Tlie  material  thus  collected 
Is  taken  out  iiml  paiiiii  <, 

111  ilils  iirlmltlve  wa,\  Stewart  river  wa**  prospected  for  200  mllcH 
from  Us  miiiith.  The  total  golM  produced  by  nil  th«>  Yukon  country  In 
that  year.  ISHr).  was  estimate, I  nt  about  $7ii.OOO.  In  the  spring  of  I88(i 
t'liNslar  bar.  Iti  miles  below  the  moiiili  of  Itig  Salmon  river,  was  dlsi-ov- 
cred.  and  the  yield  was  reported  at  $15  ,i  da,\  iter  man,  the  total  output 
of  the  placers  tlicie  lieliig  I20.0U0.  In  the  late  auluinn  of  18Stl  a  miner 
iianied  Franklin  had  discevereil  gold  near  the  mouth  of  Sliiiando  river, 
ollierw  Isc  know  n  as  ('orty  Mile  creek.  .V  i"laiiiiie<le  followed  and  Hie 
vampot  T'oitv  Mile  was  founded. 

In  the  liiiier  inirt  of  I8K7  I'raiiklln  gulch  was  Nlniek.  being  ntiined 
in  honor  of  the  dlsco\ci'er  of  |''orl\  Mile.  This  locality  has  been  a  con- 
ktuiit  "payer"  ever  since.     The  character  of  llie  gold  fmuid  there  is 


7^ 


I 


if    ■       1 


^1 


28  ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 

nuggety,  tuassos  of  considerable  size  being  common,  Franklin  gulch 
has  the  fame  of  having  produced  the  two  largest  nuggets  ever  found  In 
the  Yukon  region,  worth  $500  and  $239  respectively.  The  discovery  and 
working  of  this  gulch  mark  an  advance  from  the  primitive  bar  work- 
lug  to  the  gulch  diggings.  In  which  sluice  boxes  are  used  and  the  cur- 
rent of  a  stream  niiide  to  perform  most  of  tlie  work. 

The  first  estimate  of  tlie  production  of  the  Yukon  placers  is  in  the 
report  of  tlie  director  of  tlie  mint  for  1890.  It  states  tiie  (luantity  of 
gold  obtained  at  $50,000,  but  the  figure  is  uiucli  too  small.  Tlie  estimate 
for  that  year  !)y  the  governor  of  Alaska  was  $275,000.  Tlie  eve\t  of 
1892  was  tlie  dlscovcvy  of  Miller's  creek  by  O.  C.  Miller,  a  noted  pros- 
pector in  the  Yukon  country.  Tlih;  creek  had  been  prospected  bei.^rc, 
but  had  been  given  up.  because  tin'  surface  gravel  which  did  not  O'  -'■" 
gold  was  so  deep.  In  the  lirst  year  of  actual  worlv,  however,  one  v'lai n 
yielded  $30,000.  In  the  sjirlng  of  1893  many  new  cliims  we'  staked  out 
in  tills  locality,  and  80  men  took  out  $100,000.  Since  that  time  Miller's 
creek  has  been  the  lieirvlest  jiroducer  of  the  Forty-Mile  district,  and 
until  recently  of  the  whole  Yukon.  Its  entire  length  lies  in  British  ter- 
ritory. 

In  tlie  spring  of  1893  tiie  reported  richness  of  placers  in  tlie  Interior 
<'nused  a  rusli  t)f  miners,  dver  300  men  b(>lng  employed  in  the  I'orty- 
-MUe  district  alon(>.  In  the  summer  of  t'.iat  yea:'  two  Uussian  lialf- 
l)ree<ls,  named  IMtka  and  Sorresco,  reportiMl  gold  on  Hlrch  creek, 

lOlghty  men  went  from  I'orty-Mlie  to  the  new  district,  wlilcli  was 
soon  found  to  be  very  ricli.  A  town  was  Imlll  there  called  Circle  City, 
from  Its  proximity  to  the  Arelie  circle,  and  tills  settlement  soon  became 
the  most  Important  In  the  interior.  In  tlic>  meantime  the  Koyukuk 
river  was  being  prospi  'ted,  and  $30,000  was  taken  from  that  stream. 
The  total  amount  produced  by  the  Yukofi  placers  in  1894  was  double 
that  of  the  year  iiefoic,  the  two  camps  of  Forty-Mile  and  lllrcii  creek 
gelling  out  $409,000.     With  the  ,'old  from  the  plaeeis  was  some  siber. 

In  1S95  the  output  had  doubled  again.  Kagle  creek  wti  >|HM)ed  up, 
Hliowing  the  prettiest  g  »ld  thus  I'lir  obtained  on  the  Yukon,  A  little 
pi'iisi>ectliig  was  done  on  roriii|>lne  creek,  where  a  result  of  10  cents  to 
the  pan  was  secured.  The  total  output  of  the  Yukon  placers  that  year 
was  $709,000.  Illrch  cteeU  being  tlie  I'oremosl  producer. 

The  latest  excitement  begun  during  the  latter  part  of  Autfust  of 
In«t  yonr,  when  It  was  icportpd  nt  I'ortv-Mllo  that  rich  plaeers  h.  .  i  »en 
diHcuvered  on  the  waters  of  the  Klmidlke  ilvi  ..     Klondike  Is  a  's 

corruption  of  the  Indian  n;mie  'I'hrniidluk,  meaning  water  t'.ill  of  llsh. 
Tlie  stream  han  long  been  a  favorite  llslilng  ground  for  the  Indians;  it 
enters  the  Yukon  45  ndles  below  the  mouth  of  SIvtyMlle,  and  15  miles 
abov»«  old  Fort  Hellaiiie.  There  was  a  great  stampede  to  :he  new 
region,  so  that  In  the  winter  of  189()97  Forly-.MIle  was  almost  liese.ied, 
and  350  men  were  on  the  Kloedlk  •.  The  most  Impciiiiiif  p.  i\-\  ut  thi  i 
district  now  are  on  lh)naii-/.a  aii.i  Hunker  creeks.  On  tiie  t'  "i,«>r  the 
first  discovery  wn»  made,  $1000  lM>liig  taken  otil  In  a  few  di,;,  s,  Hliiee 
that  time  1))il  claims  1  avc  been  located,  up  to  .laniiary  .>!'  the  iiresent 
year  only,  anil  half  as  many  on  Hunker  creek. 


nnklin  gulch 
ver  found  iu 
Iscovery  aiul 
re  bar  work- 
nnd  the  cur- 
lers Is  lu  the 
quantity  of 
riie  ostlnmte 
LMio  evoit  of 
L  noted  pros- 
M'ted  boi."irc, 
did  not  M  r" 
iv,  one  clun.ii 
staked  out 
lime  Miller's 
district,  and 
1  British  ter- 

I  the  Interior 
ti  liie  l''()rty- 
lussinn  half- 
creel; . 

,  which  was 

Circle  CMty, 

soon  becnuie 

le   Koyukuk 


lint   stream. 

■^ii 

was  double 

< 

Kirch  creek 

*'' 

some  sll'cr. 

'tJ 

'IKMUsI  up, 

1 

J, 

HI.     A  little 

r  10  cents  to 

e 

rs  tli.it  year 

i 

■ji 

1"    AUKUHt    of 

1 
i 

'IS  ii       1  >en 

is  ii              "h 
till!  of  llsh. 

>  IiMliaiis;  it 

% 

md  15  udles 

T 

ii>    !he    lu'W 

^ 

>st  (lesc.  led. 

J 

i-  ''tH  of  (hi  1 

a 

r-  "Ler  the 

1 

h;,  s.     8huM> 

1 

the  presi'nt 

■ 

JZ 

c 
o 

•u 

J^ 

■-5 

c 
o 

i2 

u 

JZ 


U 

c 

9. 

rS 

Q 


> 


^'if^W^. 


«*: 


|l 


I    1 1] 


11 


I 


i 


J' 


f* 


ALASKA,  THE  \EW  ELDORADO  fB 

The  expectatou  is  that  hydrauUcing  will  bo  employed  on  a  large 
scale  some  day  on  the  Yukon  for  mining  the  placers,  but  the  method  is 
costly  and  requires  much  capital.  At  present  the  miner's  Implements 
are  of  tlie  simplest,  consisting  generaJly  of  a  hand  goldpan,  spade, 
whlpsaw  and  ax.  The  geological  survey's  estimate  of  the  yield  of  the 
Yukon  placers  during  1896  is  $1,400,000.    The  yield  of  1897  Is  variously 


A   .MlnliiK  S\mft  on  tlii>  Klondike. 


OStinmUHl  ««  hiKh  «H  $10,000,000.  of  which  Nome  $3.00(1,000  to  $4,000  000 
hnH  nlrendy  been  brouRht  out  of  the  country  »*.""".""» 

fro.7''";  I","'''.'""  '"'  '•'""'•'^-'^^  •'^"""■'•■^  cxpclltlon  w«K  lo  tlnd  ll.c  source 
fron.  which  the  gold  of  the  VnkoM  pln..erN  wnH  derived.  This  problem 
vn-  abHo  utcly  .olved  by  .he  discovery  of  a  gignn.lc  hH,  of  nnrifc  1.  s 
«"«kH  nt  \vnHt  500  mlloH  long  ami  from  50  to  100  ndlcs  lu  width.    Th,. 


i 


30 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


bolt  In  question  passes  from  British  territory  Into  American  In  tho 
uolghborliood  of  Korty-Mlle  creek.  It  has  a  northwesterly  trend,  and 
crosses  the  Yukon  river  near  the  mouth  of  Porcupine  river,  thence 
treiidlnj?  still  northward  for  an  unknown  distance  into  an  unexplored 
country.  Specks  of  bright  gold  are  seen  occasionally  on  tlie  surface  of 
tlie  rocks,  but  the  bulk  of  the  precious  metal  is  disguised  lu  the  form 
of  sulphides  and  in  cond)ination  with  iron  pyrites.  Immense  bodies  of 
ore  are  in  siglit,  of  unknown  thickness. 

The  aulliorilios  of  liie  geological  survey  believe  that  the  Alaskan 
gold  dt>posils  are  destined  to  rival  in  productiveness  tliose  of  South 
Africa.  Naturally,  tlie  miners  liave  struck  first  for  the  gravel  deitosits, 
because  tliey  are  on  tiie  surface  and  easily  accessiide.  During  ages 
past  the  streams  have  worn  away  the  gold-bearing  rocker,  fetcldng 
down  itaiticles  of  tlie  yellow  metal.  The  latter,  licing  heavy,  have  smdj 
to  the  Itottom  and  luive  lemained  while  tlu'  ligliter  particles  tioated 
away.  Thus  at  length  a  natural  auriferous  concentrate  was  formed, 
and  It  is  these  dejiosils  that  the  ndners  have  been  working.  At  a  future 
day,  provided  with  tlie  i)rop('r  machinery  and  tli(>  necessary  capital. 
they  will  Jiltack  the  virgin  rocks  Iron)  which  the  metal  of  the  gravels 
is  derived,  iind  tlun  the  Yukon  valley  will  become  In  all  prol)abillty  the 
greatest  gold-producing  region  of  the  world. 

A  report  of  tl'"  gold  discoveries  and  the  character  and  extent  of  the 
new  gold  lleldK  was  made  to  tlie  f'anadlan  gi>vernnient  this  year  by 
Wllllaiii  Ogllvle.who  lias  been  In  that  region  for  s(>v(»ral  years  as  clilef 
»>f  the  Caiiiidlan  Internallonal  boundary  survey.     In  his  report  he  says: 

"Klondike  Is  a  nilspronuiiciatton  of  the  Indian  word  'Throndak,' 
or  "riiroiidiiick,"  which  m<';ins  'plenty  of  llsli."  The  discovery  of  gold  In 
branches  of  this  stream.  1  believe,  was  due  to  the  reiiorts  of  Indians. 
A  while  man  named  .1.  .\.  I'armicli,  who  work«'d  with  me  in  1887,  was 
the  llrst  to  lake  advantage  of  tlii>  minor,  and  locate<l  a  claim  In  the 
first  branch,  which  was  named  by  the  miners  Honan/.a  creek.  ('arml<-li 
reached  his  claim  In  August.  lie  ha«l  to  cut  some  logs  and  g(>t  pro- 
visions to  enable  htm  to  begin  work  on  his  claim.  lie  returned  wllh  u 
few  weeks"  provisions  for  himself,  wife  and  brother  Inlaw  (Indliins), 
In  tht>  last  of  AugUHt,  and  Immediately  set  about  working  his  claim, 
'{'he  gravel  itself  he  had  to  cany  in  a  box  on  his  back  from  'M)  (o  lt)() 
feet.  .Vtitwllhslandlng  this,  three  men  working  very  Irregularly  washed 
out  $14,200  In  eight  days,  and  Carnilcli  asserts  (hat  had  lu>  proper  facll- 
itlcH  he  could  have  doiu'  It  In  two  da.vs. 

".\  branch  of  the  llmiair/.a  named  Eldorado  has  j)foHpectei1  mnsf- 
nlllceiitly.  and  another  branch  named  Tilly  i-reek  has  prospected  well. 
There  are  about  170  claims  staked  In  the  mnin  creek  and  the  branches 
are  (.rood  for  as  many  more,  aggregaling  about  .150  good  claims, 
which  will  ic(|ulre  over  a  thousand  men  to  work  properly.  \  lew  iiilles 
further  up.  Hear  crook  enterH  the  Khuuliko,  and  It  has  been  prospeebsl 
and  Iocale<l  on.  .Vbout  12  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Rear  creek,  (iold 
Holt'  III  creek  joins  the  Klondlk«>,  niul  on  a  branch  of  it  named  Hunker 
oreek,  vory  rich  ground  Iuih  boon  found.    On  Oold  Hot  loin  creek  and 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


31 


erican  in  the 
rly  trinid.  aiul 
river,  thence 
in  unexplored 
the  surface  of 
a  lu  the  form 
eiise  bodies  of 

t  tlie  Aliisluiu 
lios(>  of  Soutli 
ravel  deposits, 
DurluK  njies 
()ck(*.  ft'lcliiuK 
ivy.  liave  sunlc 
irtlcles  floated 
e  was  formed. 
>;.  At  a  future 
cssary  capital, 
of  tlie  gravels 
probability  the 

id  extent  of  the 
this   year   by 
years  as  cldef 
report  he  says: 
rd    "I'lirondak." 
ry  of  gold  In 
ts  of  Indians. 
(«  lu  1S87.  was 
a  claim  In  tlie 
cek.     Carmlch 
and   get   pro- 
lurne<l  witli  a 
law   (Iiullniis), 
iiig  Ids  fliiini. 
from  :I0  to  100 
guliirly  washed 
proper  facll- 

•ospected  nia»t- 
•(»spccle<l  well. 
1  the  branches 
^oud  etnlniM, 
.  .\  few  miles 
it'cii  prospected 
•ar  creek.  (Jold 
named  Ilnnker 
loin  creeli  and 


branches  there  will  probably  be  two  or  three  hundred  claims.  The 
Indians  have  reached  anotlier  claim  much  furtlier  up  whicli  they  call 
Too  Mm-li  (Jold  creek,  on  wliicli  tlie  gold  is  so  plentiful  tlie  miners  say 
in  Joke,  'You  have  to  mix  gravel  Avitli  it  to  sluice  it.'  Op  to  date  notii- 
Inp  definite  has  been  heanl  from  tills  creek. 

"From  all  this  wo  tiiink  we  have  liere  a  district  wiiich  will  give 
1000  claims  of  400  feet  In  length  each.  Now  1000  such  claims  will 
re<piire  at  least  3000  men  to  work  them  properly,  and  as  wages  foi- 
working  in  tlie  mines  are  from  $8  to  $10  per  day,  we  have  every  reason 
to  assume  tiiat  tliis  particular  territory  will  in  a  year  or  two  contain 
10,000  souls  at  least,  for  the  news  has  gone  out  to  the  East,  and  an 
unprecedented  intlux  is  anticipated  next  spring. 

"And  this  is  not  all,  for  a  large  creek  called  Indian  creek  .^ilns 
the  Yukon  midway  between  Klondike  and  Stewart  rivers,  and  ail  along 
this  creek  good  pay  dirt  may  be  found.  .Ml  that  stood  In  the  way  of 
working  lu'retofore  has  been  the  scarcity  of  iirovislons  and  tlic  ditli- 
culty  of  getting  them  up  there.  Indian  creek  is  quite  a  large  strc.uii. 
and  it  Is  probable  It  will  yield  .^)00  or  600  claims." 

"Furtlier  smith  yet  lie  the  i-iuis  of  several  branches  of  Stewart 
river,  on  which  some  jirosiieeting  has  been  done  and  g(X)d  indications 
fouiiil,  but  the  want  of  jirovlslons  prevented  development.  .Now  gohl 
has  been  found  In  several  of  ilie  streams  .joining  Telly  river,  and  also 
along  the  IlootalliiMua.  In  the  line  of  these  finds  further  south  are  tlie 
Casslar  gold  llclds  In  Ib'itlsh  ("obimbla.  so  the  presumption  Is  that  we 
have  In  our  territory  along  the  easterly  bram-hes  of  the  Yukon  a  gold- 
bearing  belt  of  Indellnlle  width  and  upward  of  300  miles  long,  exclusive 
of  the  Hrllish  Columbia  pan.  (iuarlz  of  gtMtd  «niality  is  reported  In  the 
hills  around  Hoiianza  <rcek.  but  of  this  I  will  be  able  to  sjieaU  more 
fully  after  my  i>ropos«'d  survey. 

"It  is  pretty  certain  from  Information  1  have  got  from  prosjieclors 
that  all  or  nearly  all  of  the  northerly  branch  of  White  river  Is  on  our 
side  of  tlie  line,  and  cop|(cr  Is  found  on  it.  I  liave  also  seen  a  specimen 
of  sliver  ore  said  to  have  lieen  picked  up  in  a  creek  fiowing  Into  Hen- 
nett  lake,  about  14  miles  down  It  on  the  eastern  side. 

"Wlieii  ii  was  fairly  establlslied  that  Ho)ian>;n  creek  was  rich  In 
gold  there  was  a  rush  from  Forty  .Mile.  The  town  was  almost  deserted. 
.Men  who  lia<l  been  In  a  <'lironie  state  of  drnnkeiincss  for  weeks  were 
press»'d  into  boats  as  ballast  and  taken  up  to  stake  themselves  a  claim, 
and  chilniH  were  staked  liy  men  for  tlieir  friends  who  were  not  In  the 
<'ountry  at  the  time." 


Chapter  IV 


General  Conditions  in  the  Gold  Fields 

Joseph  Ladue,  the  founder  of  Dawson  City,  in  an  Interview  pub- 
lished in  the  September  number  of  McClure's  Magazine,  spealis  as 
follows  of  conditions  In  that  region  and  of  mining  methods: 

"Worliiug  a  claim  can  go  on  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  and  part  of 
the  process  is  best  in  winter,  but  prospecting  Is  good  only  in  summer, 
when  the  water  Is  flowing  and  the  ground  loose.  That  is  another  I'ea- 
son  why  it  is  useless  for  new  hands  to  go  in  now.  They  cannot  do  any- 
thing except  worli  for  others  till  spring.  Then  they  can  prospect  with 
water  flowing  and  the  ground  soft.  If  they  strilio  it  they  can  stake 
out  their  claim,  clear  a  patch  of  trees,  underbrush,  and  stones,  and 
work  the  surface  till  winter  sots  in.  We  quit  the  'pan'  or  'haud* 
method  then.  The  'rocker'  Is  almost  never  used  except  in  'sniping,' 
which  is  a  liglit  surface  search  on  unclaimed  laud  or  on  a  claim  that 
is  not  being  Avorked  for  enough  to  pay  expenses  or  to  raise  a  'grub- 
stake.' As  soon  as  the  water  freezes  so  that  it  won't  flow  in  on  a 
man,  we  begin  to  dig  to  the  bedrock,  sometimes  forty  feet  down.  The 
ground  is  frozen,  too,  in  Avlnd  r,  of  course,  but  by  •burning'  it,  as  we 
say,  we  can  soften  it  eiiougli  to  let  pick  and  sliovel  in.  All  the  dirt  la 
piled  on  one  side,  and  when  spring  opens  again,  releasing  the  water, 
we  put  up  our  sluices  and  wasli  it  all  sununer  or  till  we  have  enough. 
There  has  not  been  iiiiy  quartz  mining  yet  on  tlie  Yukon,  but  back  of 
the  placers,  in  tlie  hills  whloh  have  not  been  prospected,  the  original 
ledges  must  be  holding  good  things  for  the  capitalist. 

"Life  on  tiie  Klondike  is  pretty  (luiet.  Most  of  the  men  there  are 
hard  workers;  but  the  climate,  witli  tlie  long  winter  nights,  forces  us 
to  be  Idle  a  great  deal,  and  miners  are  miners,  of  course.  And  there 
is  very  little  government.  The  point  Is,  however,  that  such  govern- 
ment as  tliere  is,  is  good.  I  like  tlie  Canadian  ofllcers,  the  Canadian 
laws,  and  the  Canucks  themselves.  The  police  are  strict  and  etflcient. 
The  captain  was  a  line  man,  liut  lie  had  more  than  he  could  do  this 
last  season,  when  the  rusii  for  the  Klondike  came.  Tliat  began  in 
Augtist  a  year  ago,  and  as  the  rumor  spread  up  a.ul  down  the  Yukon, 
the  towns  and  mining  camps  were  deserted  by  everybody  who  could 
get  away.  Men  left  the  women  to  come  on  after  tliem.  and  hurrietl 
off  to  the  Klondike  1o  lay  out  claims.  Circle  City  was  cleaned  out. 
There  wasn't  room  enough  on  tlie  steamer  to  take  all  who  wanted  to 
get  away  u>  the  new  diggings,  and  many  a  good-iiaying  claim  was 
abandoned  for  the  still  better  ones  on  the  creeks  that  make  the  Klon- 
dike. The  captain  of  the  police  had  only  a  few  men  without  horses  to 
detail  around  over  the  ciaiiiis,  and.  liesldes  lils  regular  duties,  lie  had 


.Ji 


^ields 

Interview  pub- 
zine,  speaks  as 
tliods : 

ear,  and  part  of 
)nly  in  summer, 
;  Is  another  rea- 
y  cannot  do  any- 
n  prospect  with 

they  can  stake 
ind  stones,  and 

'pan'  or  'hand' 
ept  in  'sniping,' 
on  a  claim  that 
o  raise  a  'grub- 
I't  flow  in  on  a 
foot  down.  The 
ruing'  it,  as  we 
All  the  dirt  is 

sing  the  water, 

e  iiave  enough. 

on,  but  back  of 

ed,  the  original 

men  there  are 
ights,  forces  us 
rso.  And  there 
It  such  govern- 
s.  tlio  Canadian 
ct  and  etHcient. 
0  could  do  this 
Tiiat  began  in 
invn  the  Yukon, 
)()(iy  who  could 
111,  and  hurriiHl 
iiH  cleaned  out. 
wlio  wanted  to 
yiiig  claiiii  was 
iiiiikc  the  Klou- 
itliout  horses  to 

(1  lilies,  lie  Imd 


'"2 
o 

5 


O 
T3 

O 

LU 

C 

o 


I 


^ 


I  'ijl 


■11  ■' 


'  t"'  i 


I 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


to  act  as  register  of  claims  and  settle  disputes  that  were  brouglit  to 
him.  And  there  were  a  good  many  of  these.  The  need  of  civil  of^cers 
is  very  great,  espcially  of  a  surveyor. 

"The  miners  on  tlie  Yulion  are  shrewd,  experienced  men,  and 
sometimes  they  are  tricky.  I  do  not  lilic  the  Icind  of  government  they 
set  up  for  themselves,  except  in  the  very  lirst  stages.  It  is  all  by 
miners'  meetings.  They  begin  by  being  fair,  but  after  a  wliile  cliques 
are  formed,  which  run  things  to  suit  the  men  who  are  in  them,  or, 
which  is  Just  as  bad,  they  turn  the  sessions  into  fun.  Nobody  can  get 
justice  from  a  miners'  meeting  when  women  are  on  one  side. 

"When  Bonanza  Creek  was  opened  up  some  of  the  claims  got 
mixed  up  in  the  rush,  and  the  measurements  were  all  Avrong.  Notices 
were  posted  on  the  store  doors  and  on  the  houses,  calling  a  miners' 
meeting  to  settle  the  boundaries  of  claims.  As  was  usual  in  such 
meetings,  a  committee  was  selected  to  mark  off  tlio  claims  all  the  way 
up  the  creek  with  a  tif ty-foot  rope.  Somehow  a  rope  only  forty  feet 
long  was  sneaked  in,  and  tliat  made  all  the  claims  short.  Tlie  space 
that  was  left  over  was  grabbed  by  tlio  fellows  who  wore  in  tlie  game. 

"Sometimes  in  winter,  when  tliore  is  plenty  of  time,  a  dispute  that 
is  left  to  the  miner.s'  meeting  grows  into  a  regular  trial,  witli  lawyers 
(there  are  several  among  the  miners)  engageil  for  a  fee,  a  committee 
in  place  of  the  judge,  and  a  regular  jury.  Witnesses  are  examined, 
the  lawyers  make  speeches,  and  tlie  trial  lasts  till  nobody  who  listens 
to  it  all,  knows  what  to  think.  I  never  liked  it.  The  best  way,  ac- 
cording to  my  experience,  for  two  men  who  can't  agree,  to  liave  a 
settlement  is  to  choose  their  own  coniniittee,  each  side  picking  a  rep- 
resentative and  both  selecting  a  third.  Then  the  committee  Is  fair, 
and  generally  the  decision  is  satisfactory. 

"Most  of  the  time  wlien  the  men  cannot  work  is  spent  in  gaiiiliUng. 
The  saloons  are  kept  up  in  style,  wltli  mirrors,  decorations,  and  flue, 
polished,  liardwood  bars.  No  cheating  is  allowed,  and  none  is  tried. 
The  saloon-keepers  won't  have  it  in  their  places.  Nobiuly  goes  armed, 
for  it  is  no  use.  Some  of  the  men  are  tlie  kind  that  would  take  nntur- 
aliy  to  shooting,  but  they  don't  try  It  on  the  Yukmi.  Tli(>  o  •ise 
that  1  know  of  was  when  James  Croiiister  shot  Wiislihurn,  auu  that 
didn't  amount  to  anything,  because  Washburn  was  a  bad  man.  There 
was  a  jury  trial,  but  the  venlict  was  tliat  Cronistcr  was  justified. 

"The  only  society  or  organization  for  any  imrixtse  besides  business 
in  there  is  the  Yukon  Pioneers.  1  tloii'l  iK'long  to  that,  so  I  don't  know 
much  al)OUt  it.  It  is  soniellilng  like  tlie  Callfoinla  I'iuneers  of  '49. 
They  liave  a  gold  badge  In  the  sliajie  of  a  triangle  with  V.  l\  on  It  and 
the  date  '89.  To  be  a  niemlur  you  iiiiist  have  conic  Into  the  country 
before  1889. 

"We  need  a  great  many  things  liesldes  gold.  We  have  no  coin. 
Gold  dust  and  nuggets  [)ass  curreiil  l)y  welglii  at  about  fifteen  dollars 
and  fifty  cents  to  the  ounce.  It  is  pretty  rough  recUoiiing,  as.  for  In- 
stance, wlien  a  man  lirlngs  In  a  nugget  mixed  wilti  t\\i:\ri7..  Then  wo 
take  it  altogether,  gravel  and  gohl,  lor  pure  golil,  and  make  it  up  on 


34 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


the  goods.  Carpenters,  blacksmiths — all  the  trades — are  wanted,  and 
men  who  can  work  at  them  can  make  much  more  than  the  average 
miner.  They  can't  make  what  a  lucky  miner  can,  but  if  they  are  en- 
terprising they  can  make  a  good  stake.  Wages  are  $15  a  day,  but  a 
man  who  works  for  himself  can  make  much  more  than  that.  I  have 
gone  into  the  logging  business  with  a  mill  at  Dawson.  The  spruce 
trees  are  thirty  inches  through,  and  after  rafting  them  down  from 
Ogilvie  and  Forty  Mile,  you  get  $130  a  thousand  foot  for  them  sawed 
into  boai'ds.  Then  there  is  butchering  for  the  man  who  will  drive 
sheep  over  in  the  summer.  It  has  been  done,  and  is  to  be  done  again. 
But  it  is  useless  for  me  to  go  on  telling  all  the  occupations  that  would 
pay  high  profits.  The  future  of  the  Northwest  country  is  not  so  long  as 
that  of  a  country  tliat  can  look  forward  to  other  industries  than  min- 
ing and  the  business  that  depends  on  mining,  but  it  is  longer  than  the 
lifetime  of  any  of  us.  The  surface  has  been  pricked  in  a  few  places, 
but  1  do  not  know  that  the  best  has  been  found,  and  I  am  quite  sure 
no  one  has  any  idea  of  the  tremendous  extent  of  the  placer  dir  gs, 
to  say  notliing  of  the  quartz  tliat  is  sure  to  follow.    Then,  all  tl  <^r 

metals,  silver  and  copper  and  iron,  have  been  turned  up,  while  .  is 
plentiful.  I  believe  thoroughly  in  the  country.  All  I  have  doubt  about 
is  tlie  character  of  some  of  the  men  Avho  are  rushing  in  to  get  rich  by 
just  picking  up  the  gold." 

The  conditions  in  the  mines  about  Dawson  in  July,  1897,  are  thus 
described  by  Charles  Haines,  in  a  letter  from  that  city: 

"The  ricli  diggings  have  been  comparatively  idle  during  the  sum- 
mer, altliougli  the  output  from  Eldorado  and  Bonanza  creeks  was  enor- 
mous, and  tliere  is  plenty  of  gold  in  sight.  There  is  every  prospect  of 
an  iumiense  output  of  gold  from  the  district  next  spring.  The  total 
output  this  season  is,  as  near  as  I  can  judge,  about  $7,000,000,  but  very 
little  ground  has  been  worked,  and  the  dumps  will,  like  some  of  the 
tailings  of  old  California  placers,  pan  out  thousrtnds  of  dollars  when 
worked  wifli  Improved  machinery.  Tlie  placers  are  the  most  puzzling 
and  deceiving  I  iiave  ever  seen.  Imagine  a  man  working  on  'good  color' 
and  finding  the  ground  worth  only  a  few  dollars  per  day,  and  then 
turning  to  a  waste  of  mud  and  moss,  with  no  surface  indications,  and 
unearthing  a  bonanza.    That  is  the  situation  here,  and  all  over  Alaska. 

"The  man  who  comes  here  to  mine  does  so  at  the  expense  of  health 
and  happiness,  and  it  is  with  him  a  question  of  making  a  fortune 
quickly  or  taking  chances  with  death. 

"About  me  are  scores  of  men  wiio  can  welgli  their  gold  by  the 
bufketful,  and  who  value  tlieir  claims  at  millions.  Four  hundred  val- 
uable diggings  along  the  creeks,  and  every  digging  is  a  fabulous  mine 
of  gold,  yet  tliere  are  weary  men  who  have  gone  and  are  returning  to 
Dawson  after  sonrdiing  tlie  great  country  liereabout,  and  never  a  nug- 
get do  they  show  for  their  toll,  having  made  a  long  tramp  over  broken 
•.rround,  and  into  a  country  whose  natural  disadvantages  are  exceeded 
by  no  other  place  on  earth. 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


35 


-are  wanted,  and 
than  the  average 
ut  if  they  are  en- 

$15  a  day,  but  a 
han  that.  I  have 
rson.  The  spruce 
them  down  from 
t  for  them  sawed 
n  who  will  drive 

to  be  done  again. 
>atlons  that  would 
y  is  not  so  long  as 
iustrles  than  min- 
is longer  than  the 
d  in  a  few  places, 
d  I  am  quite  sure 
18  placer  dir  gs, 
rhen,  all  tl  <?r 

1  up,  while  .  is 
:  have  doubt  about 
;  In  to  get  rich  by 

uly,  1897,  are  thus 

ty: 

e  during  the  sum- 

a  creeljs  was  enor- 

every  prospect  of 
sprinsr.  The  total 
!7,000,000,  but  very 

lllie  some  of  the 
s  of  dollars  when 
the  most  puzzling 
Ing  on  'good  color' 
aer  day,  and  then 
?e  indications,  and 
id  all  over  Alaslin. 

expense  of  health 
maliing  a  fortune 

their  gold  by  the 
Four  hundred  vai- 
ls a  fabulous  mine 
d  are  returning  to 
and  never  a  nug- 
trnmp  over  brolien 
igcs    are  exceeded 


i-f 


"This  Alaska-Northwest  Territory  gold  field  is  an  odd  prize-draw- 
ing proposition  that  i  can  liken  to  nothing  that  admits  of  a  better  com- 
parison than  a  lottery.  A  number  of  spots  are  selected  on  the  creeks 
and  the  rivers,  and  for  one  year  the  miner  labors.  The  year  closes, 
the  water  runs,  and  the  season's  output  barely  pays  expenses.  Not  two 
miles  away  from  the  unfortunate  one  works  a  man  who  has  taken 
from  an  uninviting  bit  of  earth  a  sackful  of  gold.  The  lucky  one  did 
not  strike  the  pocket  because  of  his  ability  as  a  miner;  chance  favored 
him,  and  that  was  all.  In  short,  the  miner  guesses  at  it  and  locates 
any  and  everywhere.  In  19  cases  out  of  20  he  misses  it,  and  has  to 
wait  another  year  for  a  new  trial. 

"Dawson  is  merely  a  collection  oi  log  huts,  saloons  and  a  mass  of 
tents,  about  600  in  number.  When  the  long  nights  come,  and  the  glass 
goes  down  to  65  degrees  below  zero,  there  will  be  intense  suffering  here, 
and  I  shudder  to  think  of  the  results. 

"Provisions  are  going  to  be  very  scarce,  an  1  there  is  little  reason 
to  doubt  that  the  entire  town  will  have  to  go  on  short  rations  during 
the  winter,  and  that  scui-vy  will  be  rampant. 

"The  gold  that  will  go  down  the  river  for  sidpment  out  this  year 
will  amount  to  about  $2,000,000.  There  is  a  lot  of  gold  that  will  remain 
in  camp,  for  it  is  used  as  an  equivalent  of  money,  and  is  legal  tender 
at  $17  per  ounce.  Of  the  3000  or  4000  inhabitants,  only  a  couple  of  hun- 
dred at  the  most  have  made  big  strikes.  There  is  plenty  of  work  at 
from  $15  to  $20  per  day,  and  many  men  have  paid  $2.50  per  day  or  less 
for  living,  and  savetl  the  balance. 

"Reports  of  other  strikes  are  constantly  received  here,  and  many 
are  authentic,  so  far  as  Stewart  and  Pelly  rivers  are  concerned,  but 
nothing  like  so  rich  as  the  Klondike  has  been  reported.  Quite  a  num- 
ber of  people  are  preparing  to  leave  here  for  Juneau  in  case  the  steam- 
ers do  not  get  through  with  provisions,  and  the  outlook  for  a  good 
grub  supply  is  uot  encouraging 

"In  conclusion,  the  Alaska  and  Northwest  Territory  gold  fields  will 
be  developetl  slowly.  Ten  thousand  men  may  come  here,  but  they  will 
be  lost  in  the  vast  country  when  they  spread  out  to  prospect.  Not  more 
than  500  of  them  will  strike  a  mine.  When  they  do  strike  pay  gravel, 
their  fortune  is  made.  In  years  to  come,  when  at  the  sacrifice  of  human 
life  and  energy,  the  treasures  of  this  great  land  are  located,  the  wealth 
of  the  Northwest  will  be  something  beyond  comprehension." 

Milton  Misamoro,  ^^hose  trip  down  the  Yukon  is  described  else- 
where in  this  volume,  llius  speaks  of  the  state  of  affairs  at  Dawson 
upon  his  arrival  in  June,  1897: 

"When  we  reached  here  we  found  that  the  reported  mines  were  not 
fakes.  These  are  probably  tlie  richest  placer  diggings  in  tlie  world. 
They  claim  tliat  as  much  as  $800  has  been  taken  out  of  one  pan  of 
gravel.  All  the  men  working  for  wages  last  winter  in  the  mines  re- 
ceived $l.r,0  an  liour,  and  are  now  receiving  $15  a  day,  with  no  likeli- 
hood of  wages  being  reduced.  Carpenters  employed  here  receive  the 
same  sum,  and  no  wages  are  less  than  $10  a  day.     There  are  two 


f'il*^.>^ 


86 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDOKADO 


stores,  with  a  cousldei-able  stock  of  goods  each.  There  is  another  Im- 
meuso  store  in  course  of  construction.  There  is  plenty  of  all  kinds  of 
provisions  here  now,  with  tiie  exception  of  bacon  and  dried  fruit.  All 
bacon  brought  in  over  the  trnil  brings  50  cents  a  pound  very  readily. 
Flour  is  cheap,  selliuf  nt  $24  a  barrel.  Dry  granulated  sugar  brings  30 
cents,  brown  sugar  25  cents,  d/ied  apples  25  cents,  beans  13  cents,  bak 
ing  powder  $1.50  a  pound,  butter  $1.50  n  roll.  Hair  cutting  costs  $1.00 
and  sliaving  50  cents;  common  boarding  house  meals  are  $1.00,  whisky 
50  cents  a  drink,  cigars  50  cents.  There  are  more  saloons  tlian  any 
other  kinds  of  business.  There  Is  one  dance  house  with  four  or  five 
girls,  and  more  coming.  There  are  a  dozen  or  more  faro  tables  run- 
ning, wlilch  recognize  no  other  limit  tlian  tlie  roof,  Avhlch  is  16  feet, 
and  some  of  the  higli  rollers  nearly  play  the  limit.  There  are  numer- 
ous businesses  repr(>seiited  liere.  su<'li  as  doctoi's,  vntolunaivers,  brok- 
ers, laundry,  tinner,  l)lacksmitli,  etc.  Nearly  ail  luisinoss  is  being  done 
in  tents,  framed  wltli  timbers.  Tiiere  is  a  small  mill  hero,  but  "e  out- 
put is  nothing  compared  witli  tiie  demand  for  lumber.  r-und)er  is 
Silling  at  $150  a  Diousand  and  logs  $4r)  a  tJioiisand.  with  such  a  scarcity 
ftf  the  latter  that  the  mill  cannot  kee])  running  nil  the  time. 

"The  cltv  is  locatcHl  on  the  Yukon,  (me-half  mile  from  the  niuutii  of 
the  Klondike  The  Klondlk(>  is  aititut  tlie  size  of  tiie  riackainas  river, 
and  tlie  Yukon  is  fully  a  mile  wide  here,  'i'lie  mines  are  wonderfully 
licli.  On  Eldorado  creek  they  took  •'lom  a  prospect  hole  4  by  7  feet 
$3100.  No.  32  got  from  four  Ituekels  of  grr.  el  $3200.  tills  quantity 
being  aliont  40  pans,  making  II  aliout  <30  to  tlie  jiaii.  No.  "'*  took  out 
of  their  siulie-ltox  100  iiounds  of  gold  in  six  hours,  two  nieii  ,-nly  being 
emiiloyed  In  tiie  shoveling.  .Many  oliiers  are  said  to  be  doing  .:•  well. 
Tlie:.,'  (Mree  mines  are  on  the  Eldorado  creek  r.JMtnt  20  miles  from  Haw- 
son  <'ily.  ICIdorailo  is  n  Iraiieh  lliat  (iiipties  Into  the  lt(in..nza  .which 
latter  empties  Into  tlie  Klondike.  All  Hie  mines  are  on  lint,  Imggy 
ground,  and  ean.ioi  lie  worked  siii  ■•essfiilly  while  Hie  weather  is  warm, 
as  Uie  streams  are  high  and  niucli  drainage  water  runs  Into  them. 
Tlu-re  are  few  Hunimer  mines  here  now,  and  they  are  doing  Utile,  as 
there  Is  not  enough  water  to  run  their  sluices  now.  The  nearest  mines 
to  tills  place  are  live  or  si.\  miles  distant,  and  no  one  seems  to  know 
how  ninny  ehiims  ''uve  Ihkmi  staked  oul.  Ev«>ry  bit  of  ground  for  35  or 
40  miles  on  the  Klondike  Is  claimed,  most  of  wlileli  will  be  worked  this 
wiiiler.  It  Is  llie  geiiei'iil  opinion  here  ilial  there  will  lie  plenty  of  work 
for  everyliody,  and  some  nre  of  the  opinion  that  some  of  the  mines 
will  pay  as  high  as  $20  befoi,'  the  winter  Is  over. 

"It  Is  necessiiiy  thai  wages  slionid  be  high  In  some  of  llieni,  as 
food  is  high.  4 Ml  Kidoriido  creek  at  the  nearest  point  flour  Is  worth  $20 
a  sack,  blow  n  simur  iKi  ceiitw,  beiins  4(1  cents,  etc.  The  '''ites  for  pack- 
ing from  Dawson  City  are  about  $1.50  a  hundred  for  eiuli  mile  of  dls- 
tnnce.  The  nioutli  of  Eldorado  creek  Is  10  miles  distant,  nniklng  freight 
$25  to  ihat  point,  and  to  the  em!  of  the  trail  $30,  which  Is  as  far  as 
'<N>ds  can  lie  packed  now.  At  present  liorseM  are  iinihI  some,  a  good 
horse  being  capable  of   carrying   250   pounds.      In    winter   dogs    and 


lere  Is  another  Ini- 
iity  of  all  kinds  of 
1(1  (liietl  fruit.  All 
ound  very  readily, 
ed  sujiar  brinps  30 
eaiis  13  cents,  bale 
cutting  costs  $1.00 
s  are  $1.00,  wliisky 

saloous  tiian  any 
■  with  four  or  five 
•0  faro  tahlos  run- 
,  Avliicli  is  16  feet. 

There  are  uuuicr- 
'atchninKcrM,  hrok- 
iiioss  is  beiuf;  dop.e 
I  hero,  but  '  e  out- 
n\lK>r.  liUniber  is 
ith  suoli  11  scarcity 
le  time. 

from  tlie  niouth  of 
e  Clackaiiins  river, 
I's  are  wondiM'fully 
't  hole  4  by  7  feet 
5200,  tills  quantity 
1.  No.  "'*  took  out 
wo  meii  .,nly  beinn 
)  be  (loiiiK  .!•  nell. 
10  luilt's  from  I>a\v- 
le  lloii.iUza  .wlilcli 
are  on  Mat.  bojrtfy 
>  weatlier  is  warm, 
•r  runs  li>)(>  tlu'in. 
lire  doiii^  lillle,  as 

'I'lie  nearest  mines 
me  seems  to  Uiiitw 

»r  niduiid  for  Hfi  or 
vlll  l)e  worked  tills 

lie  plenty  (if  Willi; 
(ome   of   the    mines 

some  III'  tliem,  IIS 
t  lluiii'  Is  wiirtli  $20 
'lie  ••'lies  for  piiek- 
r  eiMli  mile  (if  ills- 
int.  ninkiiiK  frelKiit 
\\  lileli  is  as  I'tir  IIS 
used   some,  a   Kood 

winter   do^s    aud 


Skaguay  as  Seen  from  the  Steaniei 


iii 


♦^ 


»'> 


IP 


«»***fr- 


1  k* 


I 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDOIIADO 


37 


%i 


sledges  nre  used.  It  will  be  at  least  two  and  one-half  months  before 
there  Is  much  dciunnd  for  labor,  and  It  is  no  time  to  prospect,  as  the 
large  rivers  are  all  high. 

"It  lias  been  very  warm  ever  since  1  slrudc  tlie  Yulcon,  and  mny 
get  much  warmer  yet  during  the  coming  montli.  .Tust  as  soon  as  the 
sun  goes  down  it  begins  to  freeze,  forming  quite  a  scum  of  ice  over 
pools  during  the  time  tiiat  the  sun  is  below  tiie  liorizon.  We  have  net 
had  any  niglit  for  llie  last  month,  nor  won't  have  for  the  same  time 
to  come.  The  mosiiultos  are  very  bad,  aitliough  tliere  are  less  of  them 
here  in  town  tlian  on  tlie  Hats.  It  seems  strange  tliat  wliere  the  sun 
shines  hot  so  continuously  the  ground  siiould  remain  frozen,  but  It 
is  tlie  case.  Here  in  Dawson  the  ground  is  frozen  solidly  to  witiiln  six 
Indies  of  the  surface." 

The  conditions  of  life  along  the  Yulvou  are  thus  described  by  W. 
W.  Caldwell  ,of  Itochester,  Mo.,  who  came  out  of  the  country  this  year 
witli  a  large  quaiHity  of  gold  dtist  after  two  years  of  iiard  experience. 
He  owns  an  Intcresi  in  tiiive  valuable  claims  on  the  Klondike.  He 
says: 

"1  remember  the  lime  in  I»awson  City  wlien  it  was  a  common  sight 
to  see  bottles,  tin  cans,  luickets  and  every  avnilalile  vessel,  wood  or 
metal,  standing  about  on  sliflvcs,  tables,  in  «<>i  lu-rs.  ev»>ry\\  here,  in 
<»l)en  slglit,  full  of  gold,  thousands  upon  t  imls  of  dollars*  worth  in 

every  sliack  and  store.  .Nobody  ever  thoukoi  i>i'  Inslng  any  of  It  or  hav- 
ing any  of  it  stolen.  f«>r  there  is  an  uinvrltten  iiiiii'  is  \i\\\  lliat  is  more 
potent  than  any  on  your  stattites.  Ne.M  spring,  li-.^-  vcr,  wlien  tin- 
big  crowd  gels  in  there,  they'll  not  leave  it  He  arouuii  sn  loosel 
tliougli  It  would  be  folly  for  any  crook  to  attempt  to  g<i  away  witli 
anyliodys  gold,  foi'  be  could  never  get  out  of  the  country  with  It,  and 
of  course  when  cauglit  his  trial  and  execution  would  be  short  md 
certain. 

"I  can't  Iniagliie  what  all  the  people  who  intend  to  go  up  ne\'  vear 
Intend  to  do,  for  all  the  claims  on  tlic  Klondike,  Eldorado  and  Hotuiir/.a 
nre  taken,  and  imless  they  work  for  otliers  or  buy  claims  I  don't  i- 
anything  for  them  to  do.  exicpt  to  strike  otit  In  new  direcllon^  u"  ' 
proMpccI  for  otiier  gold  beds.  If  iiiaii.x  will  do  lliis,  nnd  llicre  will  c 
nothing  else  for  liiciii  to  do.  It  will  tend  to  develop  many  new  fields, 
and  the  ones  who  will  be  nearest  lln'  new  discoveries  will  be  the 
foi'tiimile  oiieH  lor  the  time  being,  and  so  on  it  will  go  for  years,  many 
making  failures  of  It  and  a  few  striking  It  rich.  I  nin  afraid  tliere  are 
too  mail.',  men  going  In  there  pliyslealiy  uiiipialllled  for  the  work,  more 
than  lor  the  severity  of  the  winter.  TlieHi'  will  drop  out  by  the  liiin- 
driHls.  either  dying  there  or  If  iilile  will  get  baek  to  <ivll|-/.ation.  My 
ndvlee  would  be  to  (hose  luivliiit  the  Klondike  fever  to  hold  a  sort  of 
self  coiiiiiiiinloii,  and  lliid  out  If  they  are  willing  to  undergo  the  soil 
tilde,  the  dnrkneNN,  eoarse  food  and  hard  iiinnual  work  iiltendliig  a 
winter's  diggings  on  a  claim.  It  iiieaiiM  not  only  urit,  but  patience  of 
the  heroic  order.  Iiir  the  oiids  are  always  against  yon  ll>  oiigh  It  all. 
In  NUniiiu'r,  after  locating  your  claim,  you  have  to  llgiue  on  llie  aniouiil 


If       •'TP'sat 


I 


II 


38 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDOKADO 


of  work  you  are  going  to  do  and  ninuber  of  men  you  propose  to  employ, 
and  then  calouIait»  on  tlio  number  of  cords  of  wood  you  will  need  dur- 
ing the  tivo  months'  digging.  All  this  wood  must  be  cut  In  the  sum- 
mer and  taken  to  your  claim,  handy  for  ready  use.  In  other  words,  it 
is  hard  work  from  one  end  of  the  year  to  the  other,  and  at  the  end  you 
may  have  haidly  enough  to  pay  for  your  grub. 

"The  climate  Is  not  ho  severe  as  people  Imagine.  It  is  a  dry,  clear, 
bracing,  licallliy  fold  tliut  gives  one  a  ravenous  appetite  and  fits  a 
man  to  do  tlie  work  of  two  ordinary  men  in  a  more  temperate  climate. 
Ten  hours  Is  the  regulation  day's  work,  and  three  square  meals,  and 
if  a  man  is  anyways  regular  and  cooks  his  foo<l  the  danger  from 
scurvy  is  small.  There  liave  been  but  few  cases  of  scurvy,  and  these 
among  men  who  were  too  lazy  to  cook  their  food  and  were  generally 
careless  about  themselves. 

"During  tlic  winter  months  there  are  only  from  two  to  four  hours 
of  twilight,  it  being  liglit  enough  to  see,  but  not  to  read  by.  Candles 
are  used  all  the  time,  and  sometimes  have  to  be  used  in  the  middle 
of  the  day  to  eat  your  dinner  by.  The  snowfall  is  not  heavy — not  near 
so  heavy  as  in  Montiina — nor  are  there  many  storms.  The  cold,  how- 
ever, is  bitter,  and  the  mercury  goes  down  pretty  low. 

"All  provisions  liavo  (o  be  cached  on  a  high  platform  built  on  posts, 
sonieeiglit  or  ten  feet  from  tlie  ground,  in  order  to  protect  them  from 
dogs,  wolves  and  bears.  In  liie  morning  tli<;  day's  provisions  are  taken 
ont  l)y  means  of  n  ladder,  and  the  bacon  or  meat  and  other  stuff  placed 
near  tlie  lire,  wliero  it  tliaws." 

Milton  Misamore,  of  Portlnnd,  who  has  Just  returned  from  the 
Yukon  country,  thus  speaks  of  condiflons  as  they  exist  there: 

"A  man  to  liave  even  a  reasonably  complete  outfit  must  not  Hgurt' 
on  less  than  100  ])ounils  of  eat.ibles  for  each  montii  of  Ids  contemplated 
stay.  Now,  you  woulii  say  tli  t  1200  poiuuls  of  provisions  would  be  a 
year's  su|)iily;  yet  It  would  imi  he  enough  If  you  expected  to  slay  a 
year,  liecause  If  you  were  to  stay  so  long,  you  could  not  get  away  for  a 
nunduM'  of  months  longer.  Thus,  If  you  leave  here  ne.xt  spring  and 
remain  In  the  Alaskan  Interior  tnitll  the  following  winter,  you  could 
not  get  away  from  there  tlxii  until  the  following  si)rlng,  by  whlcii 
time  your  supply  of  provisions  wo\dd  be  exhausttHl.  and  you  woidd 
have  nothing  to  get  out  with  tinless  you  buy  more  there.  So  1200 
pounds  Is  less  than  you  need,  if  you  expet-t  to  slay  over  a  winter,  and 
nu>re  than  yoti  tie(  d  If  you  expect  to  return  the  same  season.  Hesldes 
this  weight  of  food  alone  y«»u  must  llguie  upon  several  linndred  pounds 
of  tools  and  other  supplies,  and  In  this  c  luiectlon  I  want  to  speak  of 
weapons.  TIds  little  pocket  kidfe  Im  nil  the  weajion  I  have  carried  or 
had  any  use  for.  I  have  been  ^eadln^•  ni  Interview  with  a  yoiifh  who 
lately  came  out  of  the  Vid<on  country,  and  he  Is  ipioled  as  saying  that 
a  man  can  shoot  all  the  game  he  wants  to  there.  Now.  I  have  traveled 
over  that  region  about  as  much  as  a  man  riudd  do  in  the  tlni<'  I  had, 
and  tht'only  game  I  saw  In  the  Yukon  country  was  a  solitary  porcu 
pine.    V(ni  tiin't  take  time  to  hunt  gnnu'  If  you  go  to  hunt  iioU\,  and 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


89 


i-opose  to  employ, 
911  win  need  dui- 
cut  in  the  suni- 
n  other  words,  it 
id  at  the  end  you 

It  is  a  dry,  clear, 
•petite  and  fits  a 
einperate  climate, 
quare  meals,  and 
the  danger  from 
scurvy,  and  these 
id  were  generally 

two  to  four  hours 
read  by.  Candles 
Bed  in  the  middle 
it  heavy— not  near 
s.    The  cold,  how- 

r 

orm  built  on  posts. 

protect  them  from 

•ovlsions  are  taltcn 

other  stuff  placed 

eturned   from  the 

xlst  there; 

fit  must  not  ligurc 

Ills  contemplated 
islons  woidd  be  a 
X pec ted  to  stay  a 
lilt  get  Hway  for  a 

next  spring  niid 
winter,  you  could 

Hpring.  by  wlilch 
(1.  and  you   would 


re   iliere, 


So  1200 


over  a  winter,  and 
season.  licsldt'H 
•al  liuiidred  poimtln 

want  to  speaU  of 
I  have  carried  ov 

with  a  youth  wlio 
>tiMl  as  saying  that 
iw.  I  have  traveled 

in  the  tliiii-  I  had, 
iH  a  solitary  punti- 
,  to  hunt  gold,  and 


you  would  belter  pack  an  extra  pick  or  sliovel  than  a  shooting  Iron. 
Nothing  stems  more  absurd  to  the  old  prospectors  in  tiiere  than  the 
arrival  «tf  tenderfeet  loaded  down  with  belts  full  of  jilstols. 

"Now.  I  have  endeavored  to  make  the  niont  careful  Inquiries  of 
others  who  have  made  the  trip,  and,  as  a  result  of  this,  together  with 
what  1  personally  olmerved,  I  am  led  to  the  eonservatlve  estimate  of 
an  average  loss  of  25  per  cent,  of  th«<  outtlis  taken  In,  And  In  that 
country  thoso  who  have  most  ninsi  part  with  at  least  a  little  to  those 
who  have  lost.     I'or  example,  a  party  of  six  that  went  down  tht>  rnplds 


f 


40 


ALASKA.  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


i 


jit  the  same  time  that  I  did  lost  their  boat  and  entire  outtit,  by  bump- 
ing against  a  rock.  With  my  llailted  outtit,  I  could  look  after  but  two 
of  them,  which  1  was  glad  to  do,  as  far  as  Dawson,  and  even  then  the 
latch  string  was  out  until  they  were  able  to  do  for  themselves.  Others 
who  came  along  liolped  tiie  rest  of  the  party.  I  understand  the  prac- 
tice is  somewhat  ditfercnt  witli  some  of  those  who  have  gone  In  since 
tlie  big  rush  began,  but  a  man's  meanness  in  that  country  does  not 
easily  escape  liim.  The  moaner  lie  is  tlie  sooner  he  is  likely  to  be  sorry 
for  it.  By  tlie  way.  now,  you  know,  or,  that  is,  since  the  stores  closed 
up  there,  the  miners'  commltlee  looks  after  every  pound  of  food  that 
enters  the  region.  They  see  tliat  the  man  wlio  brings  it  is  left  enough 
to  last  lilm  through,  but  the  rest  is  taken  from  lilm  (tliough  he  is  paid 
the  best  i)rice  for  it)  and  put  Into  the  common  stock.  The  same  will 
lie  done  with  such  provisions  as  get  up  the  river  on  tlie  steamers.  The 
government  by  miners  is  better  In  tliat  region,  I  Itelieve,  tlian  that  of 
llie  provincial  police.  Tlie  latter  may  arrest  a  man  for  stealing  an- 
other's grub,  which  is  equivalent  to  murder  in  starvation  times,  and  the 
pcllce  shut  lilm  in  the  guard  house,  where  lie  is  well  fed.  The  commit- 
tee would  do  better  than  that." 

"Don't  think  of  taking  furs.  You  don't  need  tlieni.  They  are 
heavy  and  otlierwlse  cumbersome,  and  one  sweats  under  them  as 
under  rubber  garments.  I  have  talked  with  scores  of  Yukoners,  many 
of  whom  had  spent  many  winters  In  the  country,  and  all  agree  that  one 
should  (ln>ss  so  as  to  allow  of  as  much  freedom  of  iii(*vement  as  possi- 
ble, coiiipallble  with  warmth.  These  men  wear  two  suits  of  the 
heaviest  underwear,  and  over  tills  overalls  of  heavy  drilling,  and  a 
cape  or  hooded  Juniper  of  the  same  material,  called  a  'parka.'  A 
woolen  or  other  warm  cap  Is  worn  on  the  head,  and  over  this  In  the 
coldest  weather  the  hood  of  the  parka  Is  drawn.  The  close-woven  tex- 
tiiieof  the  drilling  shields  the  wind  from  tlM>  llgure.  and  the  undercloth- 
ing keeps  the  body  warm.  The  drilling  Is  cheap,  and  weais  well.  No 
coal  Is  worn  witli  this,  the  working  dress  of  the  miner.  No  leather 
or  rubber  footwear  is  worn.  It  cramps  the  feet  and  It  Is  extremely 
essential  that  the  extremities  have  the  gicntcsl  freedom  of  circulation. 
Therefore.  Yukoners  universally  wear  winter  moccasins,  called  'muck- 
lucks,'  maile  gcneniliy  by  the  Indians.  They  are  worn  much  too 
large  for  the  feet,  so  as  to  peiiiilt  the  wearing  of  at  least  two  pairs 
of  heavy  socks  ami  a  piece  <»f  woolen  doth  over  the  Hoeks.  Kor  sum- 
mer traveling  over  the  wet,  swampy  <oniilry,  where  an  ordinary  pair 
of  boots  would  lie  soakctl  through  In  no  time.  th)>y  wear  'water  muck- 
lucks.'  For  working  In  the  sluices  they  wear.  wln>n  they  can  get  them, 
high-grade  rubber  bools,  with  rubber  soles,  I  took  a  pair  of  them  tip 
tliere  .wore  them  nearly  out,  and  then  sohl  tin  in  for  |2  more  than  they 
cost  me. 

"Tlie  climate  Is  not  espt>clally  trying.  If  one  takes  care  of  one's 
self,  except  111  siicli  places  as  Dawson  City,  which  Is  built  right  on  the 
clear  lee  of  a  fro/.cn  swamp.  There  Is  no  drainage  In  such  a  place,  and 
(he  refuse  of  the  canijm  slays  right  In  (he  iiiohh  and  inml  of  the  surface. 


■m 


outfit,  by  bump- 
)ok  after  but  two 
ind  even  then  the 
jmselves.  Others 
erstand  the  pvac- 
ave  gone  in  since 
country  does  not 
liUcly  to  be  sorry 

the  stores  closed 
)und  of  food  that 
?  it  is  left  enough 
though  he  Is  paid 
i.  The  same  will 
hi'  stoaniors.  The 
ieve,  llian  that  of 
1  for  stealing  an- 
ion times,  and  the 
fed.    The  oommit- 

them.     They  are 
s   luulur  them    as 
f  Yulioners,  many 
all  agree  that  one 
Kivcinont  as  possi- 
two   suits   of   the 
'y  drilling,  and  a 
'd   a   'parka.'      A 
I  uviM'  tills  In  the 
(•h)He-wovtMi  tox- 
nd  tiic  undercloth- 
1  wi'iirs  well.     No 
incr.     No  leather 
id   it    Is  extremely 
lUi  of  eirculallou. 
Ins.  called  'muck- 
worn    mucli    too 
t   least   two  pairs 
socks.     For  Hum- 
an ()i'*lliiary  palr 
ciir  'water  muck- 
liey  can  gel  them, 
1  pair  of  them  up 
i'2  more  than  they 

Ues  care  of  one's 
Imllt  right  on  the 
siK'li  a  place,  and 

iiid  of  the  HJirface. 


U 

a 

u 

B 

rt 
U 

t> 

JZ 

B 
o 


c 

c 
n 

-1 


•■'.■'f 
■',* 


ALASKA,  THE  NEAV  ELDOKADO 


41 


Consequently  there  Is  much  typhoid.  I  know  no  better  remedy  for  it  or 
rnther  preventative,  than  to  swallow  a  good  dose  of  quinine  and  whis- 
ky upon  the  first  symptoms  of  Its  presence  in  one's  self." 

In  regard  to  his  success  in  packing  In  his  outfit  of  900  pounds 
alone,  while  others  failed,  ho  says: 

"It  is  not  that  I  am  of  more  than  average  strength,  or  endurance. 
I  was  simply  careful  not  to  overtax  myself.  Why,  I  used  to  see  great, 
stout,  luisky  fellows  passing  me  with  their  100  to  175  pounds  on  their 
backs  and  smiling  at  my  little  pack  of  50  pounds,  which  I  dropped  at 
tlie  end  of  a  few  hxmdred  yards;  then  I  went  back  for  more.  Some  of 
them  would  walk  tliree  or  four  miles  or  more  with  those  heavy  weights 
and  only  let  go  when  they  could  carry  no  longer.  Then  the  long  walk 
back  would  tire  them  almost  as  much.  My  experience  in  packing  lias 
tauglit  me  the  value  of  stopping  before  exhaustion.  Tiius,  by  carry- 
ing a  light  weight  a  sliort  distance,  one  Is  able  to  recover  or  rest  on 
the  short  return  walk,  and  I  say  that,  if  one  will  work  one's  entire 
outfit  a  short  distance  each  day,  witliout  allowing  himself  to  overdo, 
he  will  make  much  faster  progress  in  tlie  long  run  tlmn  a  far  stronger 
man  wlio  strives  to  pack  the  heaviest  weiglit  the  greatest  distance,  and 
so  scatters  his  outfit  all  along  the  trail,  where  he  cannot  look  after  it. 
I  saw  men,  great,  strong  fellows,  wlio.  unlike  me,  had  nil  their  llve» 
been  used  to  iuird  outdoor  work,  yet  wlien  they  liad  got  as  far  as  the 
foot  of  tlie  pass  they  would  sit  down  and  weep  witli  discouragement, 
having  so  overtaxed  their  strengtli  on  the  (>asy  stretches  they  had  none 
left  for  tlie  hardest  part  of  the  journey.  1  tell  you,  there  is  nothing  in 
it  when  a  man  works  so  liard  one  day  that  he  must  lay  off  four  to 
recuperate." 

.Tnnies  .McMalion.  of  Tncnmn.  thus  speaks  of  his  experience  In  the 
Klondike  last  wlntt'r.  on  Adams  creek: 

"Four  men  of  us  worke<l  nearly  four  months  during  the  winter 
tnUiiig  gravel  from  the  creek  bed.  We  made  an  excavation  seventy- 
two  feet  long,  sixty-one  feet  wide  and  sixteen  feet  de(»p.  reaching  Iied- 
roc'k.  Wlien  tlie  creek  thawed  we  washed  the  gravel  in  sluice  boxes 
In  three  or  four  weeks.  My  share  of  the  clean-up  was  »i65.000.  In  the 
winter  we  picke<1  up  nuggets  on  tlie  dump  ranging  In  value  from  50 
cents  to  $.')00,  aiuountliig  to  |1,500.  The  goM-benrlng  gravel  lies  on  the 
<'reek  bottom,  and  is  reached  by  sinking  a  hole  through  the  ice  In  the 
river,  which  freezes  solid.  Then  tires  ar(>  built  to  tliaw  the  earth  and 
♦irlfi  work  done  to  I'eacli  the  liciiest  giiivcl.  I'or  nine  days  we  were 
unable  to  leave  our  cabins  Iumihisc  nf  llu>  cold.  Tli(>  thermometer  was 
75  degrees  below  zero.  It  Is  no  Inn  ll\  in;^'  in  smli  ji  coiinlr.v.  1  li!i\i>  a. 
c'laiin  on  Hunker  creek,  tweiily-tlve  miles  from  wliere  the  stream  emp- 
ties into  the  Klondike.  1  have  two  men  working  there,  and  imy  them 
$15  a  (lay.  The  gravel  .vields  froin  2(»  cents  to  $!•.()()  to  tlie  pan.  1  have 
a  t'laini  on  Indian  creek,  tliat  yields  rroni  !U)  ccnls  to  $5.00  to  tlie  pan." 

I-'roni  tlu'  reports  of  returning  iiilin>rs  the  condition  of  Oawson  City 
early  the  past  summer  Is  sumniarlzed  as  follows: 


Ifff 


Wr^rw^semmmmm 


42 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


Dawson  Is  situated  ou  the  north  side  of  the  junction  of  the  Klon- 
dike and  Yukon  rivers,  right  at  the  angle.  The  Yukon  is  600  yards 
wide  at  this  point  and  the  Klondike  about  the  same.  Across  the  Klon- 
dike river  there  Is  a  little  Indian  village  called  Louse  Town,  which  is 
known  on  the  map  as  Klondike.  The  Indians  are  of  the  tribe  of  Gems 
de  Fou,  or  Foolish  people. 

There  are  about  seventy-five  women  at  Dawson,  some  wives  of 
miners,  some  in  the  dance  hall  kept  by  Harry  Ash.  The  women  get 
a  percentage  of  the  receipts  for  dancing  with  the  miners.  Frequently 
when  the  miners  feel  flush,  they  give  the  women  nuggets. 

One  of  the  bars  there  cost  $760  in  San  Francisco.  It  belongs  to 
Leach  &  Ashby.  Joseph  Cooper  has  a  bar,  bought  in  San  I'rancisco 
last  spring  wlilch  cost  about  the  same,  %7-o.  It  is  a  fine  thing,  with 
mirrors  and  everything. 

There  are  ten  saloons  and  three  restaurants.  One  restaurant  be- 
longs to  a  barber,  one  to  an  Italian  and  one  to  r.n  iron  monger.  They 
charge  $1.50  for  a  meal,  which  consists  of  bacon,  beans,  brpad,  coffee, 
a  piece  of  cheese  and  dried  fruit.  The  restaurants  are  well  patron- 
ized.   They  sell  everything  they  can  rake  or  scrape. 

The  currency  there  is  mostly  gold  dust  and  paying  is  done  by 
weight.  Each  establishment  has  its  scales.  The  man  who  makes  a 
purchase  throws  his  sack  of  dust  over  the  counter  and  the  keeper  of 
the  store  weights  it  out.    The  basis  is  $17  to  one  ounce. 

T^^o  of  the  transportation  companies  keep  general  stores.  This 
summer  flour  was  $12  a  hundred  jwunds;  sugar  20  to  25  cents — 20  cents 
for  brown  and  25  cents  for  granulated;  rice  is  20  cents  a  pound,  oat- 
meal 25  cents;  condensed  milk  is  60  cents  a  can,  butter  is  $1.50  a  roll, 
beans  are  12%  cents,  salt  is  15  cents,  dried  fruit  25  to  30  cents;  apricots 
are  35  cents  a  pound;  tobacco  sells  for  $1.50  a  pound — chewing  and 
fancy  brands  for  smoking;  plug  cut  is  $2.00  a  pound,  cigars  wholesale 
there  for  $90.00  per  1000.  Blankets  run  all  the  way — for  a  good  blan- 
ket whicli  a  white  uiau  would  use— from  $16.00  to  $30.00  a  pair.  Hud- 
son Bay  blankt'ls  sell  for  $30.00,  whicli  would  be  got  for  about  $4.00  in 
England.  A  good  linen  sliht  will  cost  $5.00,  a  suit  of  underwear  about 
$10.00.  canvas  overalls  from  $2.00  (o  $2.50,  l)oo(s  from  $10.00  to  $12.00. 
The  common  stogy  shoes  are  wortli  $5.00  to  $7.50.  A  suit  of  cloths 
brings  $30,000  to  $50.00.  TlH>re  are  no  tailors  tliere  yet.  Those  clothes 
are  ctistom  made  winter  tlotlu's,  tlie  same  as  they  keep  lu  the  cities. 
They  are  largely  reinnnnls  of  clothing  dealers'  old  stock.  There  are  a 
number  of  sewing  machines  in  tlie  c(nintry. 

There  are  batlis  in  Dawson.  The  bath  li(»useH  are  made  out  of 
logs.  There  is  an  aicli  built  of  rocU.  and  tills  arch  is  flred  until  the 
rock  Is  hot;  tli«>n  llie  Are  Is  put  out  and  a  barrel  of  cold  water  is  thrown 
on  tlie  rock  until  the  house  Is  IIIIcmI  full  of  steam.  You  can  then  get 
uj)  on  a  shelf  or  lie  on  the  floor  and  get  any  temperature  ytni  want.  It 
Is  a  g(K)d  sweat  bath,  ami  is  all  right  too,  for  cleaning.  Tliere  are  a 
iinmber  of  bath  tubs,  also. 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDOKADO 


48 


Ion  of  the  Klou- 
on  is  600  yards 
icross  the  Klon- 
Town,  which  is 
le  tribe  of  Gems 

some  wives  of 
The  women  get 

ers.    Frequently 

[ets. 

).    It  belongs  to 

ti  San  Francisco 
line  thing,  with 

le  restaurant  be- 
a  monger.  They 
np,  bread,  coffee, 
are  well  patron- 

ying  is  done  by 
in  who  makes  a 
nd  the  keeper  of 
e. 

■ral  stores.    This 

15  cents— 20  cents 

Its  a  pound,  oat- 

er  is  $1.50  a  roll, 

30  cents;  apricots 

ad — chewing  and 

cigars  wholesale 

for  a  good  blan- 

.00  a  pair.    Hud- 

for  about  $4.00  in 

\ui(lerwoar  about 

.1  $10.00  to  $12.00. 

A  suit  of  cloths 

[^t.    Those  clothes 

(M'p  in  the  cities. 

Dfk.    There  are  a 

nic  nuide  out  of 
Is  (Iri'd  until  the 
il  water  la  thrown 
You  ciin  thou  got 
inv  yt)U  want.  It 
lug.    There  are  a 


01 

-5 
a 
o 

5 


a 

5 


5 


a 
s 


03 


4i 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


There  is  a  school  at  Circle  City  and  one  is  being  built  in  Dawson 
this  year.    The  ti'ucher  in  Circle  City  was  an  American  from  Nebraska. 

At  Dawson  tliere  will  be  a  Catholic  church  built  this  summer. 
There  will  probably  be  also  an  English  church  and  a  Presbyterian 
church,  too.    Bishop  Howe,  of  Boston,  has  the  latter  in  charge. 

There  is  a  theatrical  company  at  Circle  City.  The  leading  actor 
and  manager  of  it  is  George  Snow.  His  wife  is  the  leading  lady. 
They  gave  all  sort  of  plays — "Uncle  Tom's  Cabin"  one  night,  "Old 
Kentucky"  the  next,  "Camille"  the  next,  the  "Newsboy"  the  next.  It 
is  a  repertoire  company.  They  will  have  a  theater  in  Dawson  this 
winter. 

Several  lawyers  are  there,  and  two  or  three  physicians. 

The  summer  opens  about  May  15.  The  ice  goes  down  the  river, 
and  by  June  1  no  snow  is  seen  anywhere.  The  summer  lasts  till  Sep- 
tember. The  dnys  lengtlien  and  shorten  there  at  the  rate  of  seven 
minutes  a  day.  The  longest  day  there  is  June  22.  On  that  day  they 
have  the  sun  for  about  20  hours — a  clear,  warm  sun.  After  the  win- 
ter sets  in  on  the  first  of  September,  tlie  cold  comes  gradually.  In  the 
months  of  September  and  October  the  climate  is  fine.  The  month  of 
October  there  is  about  the  same  as  November  liere;  after  that  every- 
thing is  closed  up.  The  Yukon  river  usually  closes  between  the  1st 
and  10th  of  November.  It  is  not  navigable  after  that  time  until  the 
next  spring.  The  ice  in  the  rivers  fret»zes  five  and  a  half  feet  thick, 
according  to  Mv.  Ogilvic,  who  cut  holes  for  measurement  once  a  month 
during  the  winter.  From  that  time  until  June  15  of  the  next  summer 
the  life  the  men  and  women  lead  is  about  the  same  as  In  any  mining 
camp.  In  the  winter  time  the  nights  are  spent  in  playing  cards. 
Among  the  gamblers  tlie  great  game  is  poker.  Among  tiie  miners  the 
favorites  nre  whist,  pedro,  cribbage  and  checkers. 

Some  claims  are  worked  simply  by  building  long  sluices  along  the 
creek  and  bringing  water  to  tliem  fr(nu  above  by  u:»>ans  of  a  ditch,  the 
dirt  being  shoveled  into  the  sluice  from  the  sides.  Otliers  have  the 
dirt  slioveled  down  to  tlie  sluices  from  the  benches  above.  These 
chiims  can  only  be  worked  in  the  summer  time  wliile  the  water  is  run- 
ning. The  claims  upon  which  work  is  done  In  the  winter  time  are 
those  on  the  Hats  or  boggy  niarslii's,  wliere  n  shaft  hns  to  be  sunlc  to 
get  nt  tlie  rh'li  dirt  near  the  bedrock.  Tlie  ground  Is  tliiiwed  by  means 
of  fires  kept  Viuriilng  in  the  sliiU't,  mid  the  dirt  is  sent  up  to  the  surface 
in  buckets,  where  it  is  piled  up  on  the  dump.  In  the  summer  time  this 
dirt  Is  run  tlirougli  !i  sluice  iiud  tlie  >;t>ld  taken  out  of  it.  Thus  it  will 
be  seen  that  actual  washing  i)f  gold  iroui  the  dirt  can  be  done  only  for 
a  short  lime  each  year,  iiinl  thai  it'  a  man  puts  in  his  time  in  tlie  win- 
ter piling  up  the  pay  dirt  near  his  shaft  for  washing  the  iit<xt  summer, 
lie  may  not  be  alile  to  niakf  a  cle.'in  up  of  it  all  the  next  suniiner  in 
time  to  get  out  of  the  (oniilry  thill  year,  being  thus  compelled  to  re- 
main another  wliit(>r.  Tills  is  also  true  of  one  who  has  a  claim  re- 
quiring summer  working,  for  when  the  mining  season  Is  over  it  Is  too 
late  to  go  down  the  river  or  over  the  trail  to  the  coast. 


built  In  Dawson 
I  from  Nebraska, 
lit  this  summer, 
a  Presbyterian 
1  charge, 
lie  leading  actor 
lie  leading  lady, 
one  night,  "Old 
)y"  the  next.  It 
in  Dawson  this 

ciaus. 

down  the  river, 
ler  lasts  till  Sep- 
le  rate  of  seven 
n  that  day  they 

After  the  win- 
•adually.  In  the 
.  The  month  of 
ifter  that  every- 
between  the  1st 
it  time  until  the 

half  feet  thiclc, 
nt  once  a  month 
he  next  summer 
IS  in  any  mining 
1  playing  cards. 
i  the  miners  the 

sluices  along  the 
18  of  a  ditcli,  the 
Others  have  the 
s  above.  These 
lie  water  is  run- 
winter  time  are 
fis  to  be  sunlc  to 
liawod  by  means 
lip  to  the  surface 
umnier  time  this 

it.  Tims  it  will 
be  done  only  for 
time  in  tlio  wiu- 
lie  next  suminor, 

next  suminor  in 
(oinpellcd  lo  ro- 

liiis  a  cl.'Um   re- 

is  over  It  is  too 


::-.z~i',i»-' 


"^tk 


\., 


"V 


H% 


Indians  l^ickini;  Over  Chilkoot  Pass. 


"'ifim-mt^ 


t 


Chapter  V 


Routes  to  the  Yukon  Mines 


Of  I'qujil  iiiiportiuH'i'  to  tlio  st'ltHtioii  of  ii  sutHcicut  and  proper  out- 
flt  is  tlio  quesiioti  of  whni  roiito  shall  bo  taken  to  reacli  the  Interior 
from  the  toast,  tiiul  this  sliotild  bo  docidod  l)olo.e  (he  outlit  is  pur- 
i/h:isi'»l,  sinoe  tlio  loute  to  be  followed  detonniues  iu  several  important 
luirticulnrs  the  nature  of  the  eciiiipnient  necessary. 

In  the  liisi  i)liioe  it  may  be  said  tiiat  Dawson  City,  tiie  commercial 
point  of  llie  Klondllvo  rejilon,  may  be  readied  from  I'ortland  by  an  all- 
water  route  by  the  wny  of  the  month  of  the  Yulvon  river,  or  by  water 
to  some  point  on  tlie  southern  coast  of  Alasliii.  and  (hence  overland  on 
foot  to  tlie  lieadwattM'8  ot  the  Yulvon  and  by  Ijoat  down  (lie  river,  or 
by  still  longer  overland  trails.  Kacb  of  these  routes  will  be  considered 
separately,  tiionnrh  it  is  proper  to  (luailfy  In  advance  anylliin>r  (liat  may 
be  >aid,  by  tite  advice  (o  leave  (lie  decision  of  this  matter  until  spring, 
since  new  developiuenis  and  added  facilities  provided  before  that  time 
may  so  radically  clianne  the  prcs»>n(  coinlKloiis  in  regard  to  some  of 
tile  routes  as  materially  to  affect  tlie  decision.  Tills  is  a  (piestion  that 
nilnlit  well  lie  detcrinlned  after  iirrlvinn  lii  rorthind,  btit  before  pur- 
chasing an  oultit,  taldiif;  advantatre  of  (lie  very  latest  inl\>nniition  on 
tiie  subject,  since  there  iire  rallro.'id  and  otlier  projects  on  fool  (liat 
have  no(  yet  devclciicd. 

ST.   MICll.MOi.H  AND  YIKDN  KOl'TE. 

I'lidcr  present  conditions,  and  until  a  railroad  is  built  from  some 
point  on  (liecoas(  (o  coipu-it  with  steamers  on  the  upper  waters  of  (ho 
Vulvon,  (hceiislesi  i'ou(e  is  by  ocean  steanuM*  to  Ht.  Mlcliaels,  near  the 
nioutli  of  tlie  Yul<oii,  and  (hence  l>y  river  s("aiiier  up  (he  siream  (o 
Dawson.    The  dislances  by  (his  rou(e  are  as  follows: 

I'ortland    (o   St.    Michaels 2350  miles 

.     St.   Mlcliaels   (o   Circh'   City BOO  miles 

Circle   Clly    (o    lMir(y Mile 350  miles 

Korty-Mlle  to    Dawson 60  ni lies 

Tlie  s(«'ame:'  route  (o  S(.  .Michaels  euls  aeioss  the  northeas(  corner 
of  the  raclllc,  as  sIio\mi  on  (he  acconipaiiyiiiK  mti|),  passes  (hrouKh  the 
Aleutian  archlpehiKo  a(  DiKch  Marluir.  rmilaska,  and  crosseH  Kehr- 
IllK  s(>a  (o  S(.  Michaels,  wlih  Ii  Is  lot  atcd  mi  an  Isliiiid  SO  miles  north 
of  the  Vukoii's  niouili.  Hecause  of  (he  sliallowneHs  of  tlie  wa(er  ocean 
'-teaiiiers  ciinnot  enter  tlie  Yukon,  and  passetiKers  and  frelKht  are 
iransferred  (o  liuht  diar(  river  s(eiiiiierM  a(  Ht.  Michaels.  'I'lie  chief 
objecdon  (odds  rt>u(e  is  (lie  sliortiiesK  of  the  navlKiidoii  season  on  the 
Yukon,  tieint;  only  alHUit   three  months  each  year.     DnrliiK  (lie  odier 


46 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


I 


nine  months  one  can  get  In  and  out  only  by  one  of  the  overland  routes. 
Ice  breaks  up  in  the  Yukon  botweep  May  15  and  the  first  of  June,  but 
the  inoutli  of  the  river  Is  often  blocked  with  ice  for  some  time  after 
the  river  above  Is  navigable.  It  la  customary  for  such  steamers  as  are 
near  the  mouth  of  the  river  to  winter  at  a  point  about  75  miles  up  the 
stream,  ^^'hon  released  from  the  loe  they  start  up  the  river,  while 
those  frozen  in  at  the  head  of  navigation  start  down  stream.  By  the 
time  the  latter  reach  the  mouth  of  the  river  tlie  ice  is  gone,  and  they 
can  get  to  St.  Michaels,  wheie  tliey  find  llie  first  lot  of  passengers 
that  liave  urived  from  the  south  Hint  season.  By  this  time  it  is 
file  first  of  June,  or  later.  The  last  boats  to  go  clear  up  the  river 
must  leave  St.  Mlclinels  not  much  later  than  the  first  of  Septeml)er,  as 
the  river  gen«'rally  freezes  l)et\veen  the  tenth  and  twentletli  of  the 
montli.    This  leaves  only  tliree  months  of  actual  travel  in  or  out. 

At  present  both  the  .Mnska  Commercial  Company  and  the  North 
American  Trading  and  Transportation  Company  have  steamers  on  the 
river,  and  endi  lias  trading  posts  at  St.  Michaels  and  at  vai'ious  points 
In  the  Interior.  The  present  year  tliese  Iwiats  have  been  unable  to 
carry  in  the  supplies  required  for  tlie  greatly  liicrea8e<l  population  of 
the  mining  regions,  and  upon  this  fact  Is  l)as(Hl  the  prediction  of  short- 
ness of  provisions  and  great  liiirdship  In  the  mining  region  i)efore 
spring.  Notliing  but  an  enormous  increase  in  the  number  of  river 
boats  will  give  the  facilities  flint  will  be  (lemnndtHl  by  travel  and 
frelglit  seeking  this  route  in  18}>8.  II  Is  very  doubtful  If  tlie  provis- 
ion that  will  be  made  will  be  at  all  ad(>(|uate  to  the  demand,  and  this 
may  result  In  a  very  high  rale  cliaigt'd  for  Inivel  by  lliis  route.  There 
area  great  many  projects  on  foot  lo  gel  new  Nlcniners  upon  tlio  Yukon. 
Some  of  them  ronlemplate  llie  sending  of  miilerlal  already  prepariMl, 
lo  be  put  togelher  on  llie  river  Itank,  while  others  plan  lo  take  boats 
already  bulll,  elUjer  lowed  In  Ihe  water  or  resling  on  llie  decks  of 
ocean  vesHt«ls.  Wluil  of  these  many  cnterprlHes  will  Hucceecl  and  wliat 
will  fall  It  is  liiipoNslble  to  )M'e*llct,  but  It  may  safely  be  said  that  In 
one  way  or  aiioiher  lln>re  will  he  a  large  atldlllon  to  Ihe  Yukon  river 
Heel  In  1S!)K.  yei  proliably  no!  HUlililent  lo  llie  deniandH  of  travel. 

Hteamers  iiavigaling  the  Yukon  iniisl  nil  llieir  own  fuel  from  tbo 
timber  growing  along  the  river.  The  conipanleH  now  having  boats 
there  liave  wood  eiii  and  )>iled  up  on  the  luink,  but  new  companies 
would  liave  lo  cut  their  own  iis  they  went  along.  The  river  Is  nav- 
lgabl»>  for  ordinary  river  sleaniers  without  intich  dirtlctilty,  except  for 
11)0  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  roieiipliH*,  where  It  is  qtilte  shallow, 
owing  to  Nedliiieiit  deposited  from  Ihe  latter  river.  Iler(>  at  tinies  the 
channel  Is  only  four  feet  In  <leplh.  The  river  could  |irobnbly  bo  nar- 
Igaled  to  the  Lewis  and  up  that  Nireani  as  far  as  the  While  IIoi'so 
rapids,  or  by  the  llooinllih|nii  river  to  Luke  TcHliii,  i\>*  Is  (diilemplated 
III  the  Hlhkeeii  ronl«>.  I'elly,  Stewart.  Tahkeeiin,  I'orcuplne,  TnnaiiH. 
Ko.Mikiik.  .\nlvk,  While.  Illnli,  Hnlinoii  and  others  ar)<  also  navigable, 
making  In  all  several  tlutusand  miles  of  navigable  water  on  the  Yukon 


ALASKA.  THE  NEW  ELDOKADO 


47 


overland  routes. 
Irst  of  June,  but 
some  time  after 

steamers  as  arc 

75  miles  up  the 
the  river,  while 
stream.  By  the 
8  gone,  ami  they 
ot  of  passouKers 

IhlH   time   it    la 
L^ar  up  the  river 
of  September,  as 
twentieth  of  the 
}l  in  or  out. 
y  and  the  North 
!  stonmers  on  the 
at  vai'lous  points 
J  been   unable  to 
sie<l  population  of 
•etlictlon  of  short- 
i\\t  roRlon   before 
number  of  river 
m1  by   travel   ami 
fnl  If  the  provls- 
demaiul,  and  this 
Ihls  route.    Tliero 
<  upon  thf  Ynlion. 
nlreiidy  preparwl, 
inn  to  tnlie  boats 

on  fli<»  dcflis  of 
HiU'ceed  and  what 
be  said  that  In 
)  tiic  Yiilion  river 
Is  of  travel. 

i\\  II  fuel  from  tho 
i>\\    liavliiK   liontH 

II  m>\v  companleR 
The  river  In  nav- 
lliulty.  except  for 
I  JM  «pille  shallow, 
Hire  at   lliiu's  the 

probiibly  be  nav- 
tlie  Willie  Horse 
N  Is  contemplated 
orcuplne,  Tnnnna. 
rt>  iiIho  navlktiible. 

III  CI'  on  the  Yukon 


Nciir  tlic  .*<iimiiiil   of  Wliltc  Tass. 


and  Its  branches,  all  of  which  may  be  rendered  nvailnble  by  the  (level- 
opnient  of  the  country  ulthlr.  a  very  few  yciirs. 

cHiU'tior  .\\i»  wiini'  PASSES. 

It  Is  ImpoHMililo  to  Hcpiirate  tlicNc  two  roeti-s  acrcss  llie  ('oaat 
motinlnliiH  In  consldcrlnii  tiie  cntrnncc  of  the  Yukon  country  by  wny  of 
the  upper  hikes.  TIiIn  In  the  mute  tnken  by  the  Ihoiisiindr  who  ruslunl 
to  tli«>  Kotd  ticlds  III  the  liilc  suinnier  of  lSi)7.  Iloth  start  from  the  head 
of  Kyea  (Tiii.vu.  or  Tyn.  as  It  is  .iirlously  Hpelledt.  or  Clilleoot.  lulut,  a 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDOUADO 


branch  of  I.yun  cnual,  suiiu'  100  niilos  north  of  Juneau.  The  head  of 
the  ink^t  is  *'urko<l,  the  t'hilcoot  river  flowing  Into  the  west,  or  Dyea, 
fork,  and  the  Skaguay  river  tlowing  Into  the  east,  or  Skaguay,  fork. 
From  tlie  former  Xlw  Chlleoot  pass  leads  across  the  mountains  27  miles 
to  Lake  Linderman,  and  from  the  latter  the  White  pass  leads  also 
across  (lie  sumnUt  about  4C  miles,  either  to  Lake  Bennett  or  Lake 
Taglsh. 

The  resp'jctive  merits  of  Iheso  tw()  passes  have  been  much  dis- 
puted tlie  i»ast  summer,  owing  to  the  experiences  of  those  who  tried  to 
go  over  lliem.  Heretofore  tlie  Chilcoot  pass  has  been  the  route  used, 
Indians  being  employe<l  to  pack  goods  over  Its  steep  summit,  the  price 
imtil  the  present  season  for  that  service  l)eing  about  15  cents  per 
pound.  An  Indian  man  will  carry  at  one  time  from  90  in  150  pounds, 
a  squaw  from  50  to  75  poun<ls,  a  boy  of  15  years  from  40  to  75  pounds, 
and  a  dog  about  40  pounds.  Tlie  load  is  lashed  upon  the  Indian's  back, 
so  that  the  straps  go  over  liis  slioulders,  while  a  band  is  passed  under 
the  pack  and  over  the  man's  head,  coming  across  his  forehead.  With 
such  a  load  tliey  will  triivel  tiic  rugged  tniii.  wading  swift  streams, 
clambering  over  rough  liouiilcis  iiiid  sniliiig  icy  steeps,  wliere  an  inex- 
perienccHl  while  man  could  not  go  witli  a  (piarter  of  tlie  weight.  Fred- 
erick Tliurston  thus  describes  tlie  trip  over  tills  pass  in  April.  1893: 

"Every  two  or  tlire(>  Iniiidrt'd  ,\anls  tin-  entire  party  stopped  to 
rest.  At  one  o'clock  \vc  n-iiclied  I  lie  forks  of  the  river,  seven  miles 
from  our  starting  point,  and  tiic  Indians  said  we  would  camp  for  the 
night,  'I'liey  were  complciciy  exiuiustcd  by  tlouiulering  tlirough  the 
soft  snow  under  their  heavy  packs.  Halt  of  the  next  day  was  spent  In 
wnding  through  snow  from  three  to  hI.\  feet  deei»,  {o  the  place  known 
as  Sheep  ciiiiip,  uidy  live  miles.  (Mir  camp  for  tlie  second  night  was  at 
the  foot  of  tlie  dreaded  pass  and  only  12  miles  from  the  i-oast.  In  the 
early  morning  we  started.  Looking  for  a  couple  of  miles  up  a  large 
gorge,  Hanked  by  precipitous  snow covereil  uiouiitalns,  we  <'o»dd  see 
at  the  suiiimit,  tiioiisands  of  feel  above,  the  little  notch  known  as 
Chlleoot  pass.  The  IndlaiiH,  striiggllng  under  their  heavy  loads, 
stopped  for  Itreath  every  few  nilniiles.  We  four  white  men  had  the 
«>\aspei'atliig  task  of  diiiggliig  aloiiu;  two  empty  sl«>ds.  .\t  eleven 
o'c'lock  we  had  reached  the  fiMit  of  the  ascent.  From  here  to  the  sum- 
mit Is  only  luiir  II  mile,  hut  the  angle  of  the  slope  is  about  45  degrees. 
As  soon  IIS  the  liidlans  learned  that  the  erust  of  the  snow  was  hai'd 
and  iiiiyieldliig.  they  divided  the  piieks,  leaving  nearly  half  their  loads 
nt  the  foot  of  the  ascent  for  n  second  trip.  One  of  the  men,  producing 
a  strong  plaited  line  of  niwhliles.  about  100  feet  long,  passed  it  under 
every  iiiiin's  liell.  lushing  the  nine  of  iim  together,  10  feet  apart.  The 
man  at  the  head  of  the  line  earrl*>d  ii  natchet,  and  as  we  advan«-ed,  <>ut 
fiHilholds  In  the  lee  iind  liai'd  ptieUed  snow,  Tlii>  slope  being  too  steep 
for  direct  iiNeeiit,  we  resorted  to  "/.lg/,iigglng,'  and  our  progreHS  was 
painfully  slow,  as  we  had  to  cut  every  step.  Tluri*  was  no  opportunity 
to  sit  down  or  rest,  and  we  kept  pegging  iiway  until  nt  last  we  stood  on 
the  I'rest  of  snow  and  Ice  that  divides  the  valley  of  the  Yukon  from  thw 


♦ 


u.  The  head  of 
<:  west,  or  Dyea, 
•  Skaguay,  fork, 
luutains  27  miles 
pass  leads  also 
Jeunett  or  Lake 

been  much  dls- 
ose  who  tried  to 
tlio  route  used, 
iimmit,  the  price 
ut  15  cents  per 

0  to  150  pounds, 
40  to  75  pounds, 
le  Indian's  back, 

is  passed  under 
forehead.  With 
X  swift  streams, 
,  wlicre  an  inex- 
e  wcIkIi'.    Fred- 

1  April,  1893: 

>ar(y  stopped  to 

rer,  seven   miles 

Id  camp  for  the 

\un  (lu-oujrli  the 

lay  was  sik>iiI  In 

I  he  )tiace  knowu 

lud  nljflit  was  at 

le  <-(iast.     In  tlie 

uiU's  up  a  larKe 

s,    we   could    see 

iiotcli   knowu  as 

r    heavy    loads, 

te   men   liad  tlie 

I'ds.      \\    eievcn 

liere  to  llie  sum- 

lioiil  45  (ieitrees, 

Miiow  was  liard 

liall'  tlieir  loads 

men,  pmducinK 

pasHfd  It  under 

feel  apart.     The 

re  advanced,  cut 

lii'lnjr  loo  Mlecp 

ir  pronrcMs  was 

H  no  opportunity 

last  we  stood  on 

Yukon  rroni  titu 


a 
o 

c 

u 

In 
It 


■u 

-n 


X! 
C 

8 

in 


1 1; 


irn 


I 


91 


1 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


49 


sea.  tlirce  hours  iifter  lasliing  ourselves  together.  On  the  summit  we 
threw  ourselves  down  upon  the  snow  and  remained  motionless  for  half 
an  hour.  Then  the  Indians  went  back  after  the  remainder  of  the 
paolvs,  returning  in  tAvo  hours. 

"The  use  of  the  two  sleds  that  linil  been  brouglit  along  empty  was 
now  ai>parent,  and  on  them  was  loaded  and  securely  strapped  down 
the  thousand  pounds  of  stuff  the  Indians  had  carried  to  the  summit. 
Down  grade  we  started  on  tlie  northern  side  of  the  range.  For  the 
first  half  mile  down  the  glassy  slope  it  was  a  wild  ride.  The  sleds, 
each  witli  two  men  in  addition  to  its  load  of  500  pounds,  tlevv  down 
grade  witii  the  speed  of  an  express  train.  It  was  well  they  were  of  oak 
and  tile  runners  shod  with  steel,  for  sometimes  tliey  would  clear  the 
snow  for  30  feet  at  u  bound.  The  sled  ahead  of  the  one  I  was  on 
struclc  an  uneven  ))lace  and  went  over.  Its  lashings  broke,  and  for  a 
few  brh'f  seccmds  tlie  air  was  tilled  witli  roils  of  blankets,  sides  of 
bacon,  mining  tools  and  earnest,  soulful  profanity.  Our  sled,  coming 
on  to  a  gentler  slope,  and  softer  snow,  was  evenniaiiy  stopped  without 
tlj.xaster.  In  half  an  hour  the  otlier  sled  was  reloaded  and  .|oine<l  us. 
We  were  now  out  of  the  g«n'ge  «»n  a  sm-t  of  bench,  or  tiat,  covered 
witli  soft  snow.  We  got  into  the  liarness  and.  pushing  and  pulling, 
struggleil  on  in  tlie  liop«'  of  reaclilng  Lake  Linderman  before  night. 
When  night  came  the  air  was  full  of  tiying  snow,  and  we  were  so 
weakened  by  iiunger  that  we  decided  to  abandon  tlic  sleds  until  the 
next  day.  Taking  eacli  a  roll  of  blankets  we  struck  down  a  ravine 
whi<'h  we  correctly  .i\iilged  was  a  tributary  of  Lake  Linderman." 

riiat  iilglit  tliey  camited  in  the  snow,  wltli  nothing  to  eat.  went 
bat  k  lor  their  sleds  the  lU'xt  day  and  were  all  day  getting  them  down 
to  the  camping  place,  where  they  had  their  llrst  meal  for  37  hours. 
Tlic  next  day.  by  great  exertion,  tiiey  dragge<l  both  sleds  to  the  bank 
i<{  Lake  Linderman.  tlie  liea«l  of  tiie  Yukon  system  of  lakes  and  rivers. 
Hn  the  fro7i4>n  surface  of  tiie  lakes  they  made  good  progress,  covering 
its  entire  length  and  the  short  portage  to  Lake  Hennett.  20  miles,  hi 
one  day.  The  next  day.  rigging  up  nails  from  t«'nt  files,  they  propelled 
their  sleds  by  wind  20  miles  aeross  Lake  Hennett,  and  then  dragge<l 
them  along  the  bank  of  the  small  stream  <-onnectlng  it  with  Lake 
.N'ares.  Two  days  of  hard  work  took  I  hem  over  Lake  Taglsh  and  to 
the  shore  of  Lake  .Marsh,  where,  the  snow  becoming  soft  and  tlie  ice 
beginning  to  break  up.  they  went  Into  camp  and  built  a  boat  from  lum- 
ber whip  sawed  out  of  ilie  surrounding  trees,  in  which  they  made  the 
remainder  of  the  Journey  down  the  lakes  and  river  to  ForlyMlle,  their 
destination, 

III  eoiislderlng  the  above  aecoiiiil  of  •inHsliig  liie  r|illl<<iui  pass.  It 
must  not  be  forgotten  that  the  journey  was  made  at  the  most  favora- 
ble time  of  the  year  The  crossing  in  summer,  when  the  rains  protluee 
deep  mud.  ili<  roughness  of  the  trail  Is  ex|iosed  by  disappearance  of 
the  snow  and  sl«><ls  euniiot  he  used  Cor  «lrawing  the  supplies,  Is  a  far 
more  dlltlcult  task.  It  Is  this  which  rendered  It  st.  dlfllcnlt  for  the  thou 
sandK  who  ruslu'd  to  Iiyea  to  «:et  ovi-r  the  summit   with  ilieir  tons  of 


If-'   "Trf* 


RH 


50 


ALASKA,  tub:  XKW  ELDORADO 


freight.  Much  move  packing  was  necessary,  white  men  unused  to  tlie 
worli  could  pacli  but  little,  and  there  were  not  enough  Indians  to  do  the 
work.  The  Indians  began  by  charging  17  cents  a  pound  and  ended  by 
putting  tlie  price  up  to  40  cents.  Tliose  wiio  had  but  little  stult'  and 
could  pay  the  price  were  taken  over.  The  otliers  had  to  make  such 
shift  as  tliey  could  for  themselves.  Many  succeeded  in  getting  over 
witli  a  portion  only,  and  still  others  did  not  get  over  at  all.  In  the 
spring,  after  tlie  fierce  storms  have  ceaseil.  tliose  remaining  and  the 
tiiosuands  who  will  join  tliem  will  be  able  to  get  over  much  more  easily 
and  be  at  tiie  lakes  by  the  time  the  ice  breaks  up.  so  that  they  can  go 
tlowii  tlie  river.  Tliere  is  a  project  on  foot  to  build  a  trnimvay  at  the 
summit  of  tlie  pass,  to  haul  goods  up  tlie  steeliest  place,  and  if  this  is 
done,  it  will  simplify  matters  materially. 

As  to  tile  AN'hite  jiass,  the  experience  tliere  was  disastrous.  Being 
altout  a  tliousaiid  feet  lower  tliaii  the  ("liilUoot.  it  was  at  once  supjiostMl 
tlijit  is  was  easier  t(»  cross,  notwiliistanding  the  exiterienced  Indian 
packers  never  use  it.  Even  if  it  were  not.  the  crowding  of  the  (.'liilkoot 
|iass  and  the  exactions  i>f  tiie  Indian  packiM's  were  enough  to  send  the 
<'ro\vd  to  Skaguay,  where,  also,  freiglit  fould  be  iiiucli  more  easily  and 
safely  hinded  from  tlif  steamer.  II  wiis  soon  found  tliat  the  Skaguay 
trail  led  across  marshes,  wliiili  were  soon  rendered  impassiible  by  in- 
cessant iiilii  :iiid  coiisinul  use,  up  i,'orges  <  rewii  with  rough  boulders 
that  a  horse  could  scircely  be  led  over  in.  ;iloiig  steep  precipices, 
wlii'fe  a  misstep  would  siMiil  horse  and  (pack  to  di'stniclion.  and  up 
ascents  aliiiosi  as  sleep  as  ilial  of  the  CliilUoot  sunimll.  No  less  than 
5.000  persons,  unorganized  and  each  iii:in  VMUking  for  himself,  with 
more  than  ii  tlioiisiind  p:ick  animals,  crowded  the  trail  iind  for  a  long 
time  couhl  make  im  pidgres>.  The  man  h  was  corduntyed,  but  the  logs 
could  not  be  ke|>t  in  place.  Hundreds  of  aniiMals  mired  down  and 
were  shot  or  left  to  dii'  as  they  were.  Others  f(>ll  over  precipices.  .Men 
were  heartless  and  iiuel.  Some  of  the  more  energetic  formed  a  com 
mitte(>and  proceeded  to  work  <tii  the  irall.  Boulders  were  blasted  and 
the  marsh  was  corduroyed  to  liett'-r  efl'ect.  .\s  a  result  of  three 
nionllis  of  elToft  a  few  hiitidieds  of  ',lie  most  active  and  best  equipped 
HiH'ceeded  in  celling  over  with  .-ill  their  outllt.  and  otiiers  by  aiiiindoii 
lug  a  portion,  while  the  great  majority,  having  niadi>  but  little  progress, 
reinined  as  best  tliey  could  to  liie  new  town  of  Skiigiiay.  to  .Iiineau, 
and  even  further  south,  either  abnidoning  the  Journey  entirely  or  to 
wait  until  spring. 

After  an  exaiiilniitioii  of  the  Skaguay  trull.  1{.  II.  Stretch,  a  min- 
ing engliieer.  iliiis  repotted  upon  it  late  in  .\iigust: 

"Skaguay  valley  was  once  occupied  by  a  huge  glacl«>r.  Near  the 
lower  end.  llie  rocks  are  aiiclcni  sedimeiiliiiv  or  stiatllied  deposits, 
with  inniiiiierable  dikes  anil  sirliiucrs  of  granite  asphalt,  bill  all  the 
upper  portloiiH  of  the  valley,  and  the  Hiiinmit  of  the  range,  are  noihing 
but  a  very  coarse  granlle.  witlioul  any  trace  o|  ;iiiy  siructure.  but  wiili 
very  strongly  marked,  nearly  horl/.onial.  I)eddinn  jilaces.  t-ut  liy  nearly 
vertical  sle<lge  joints. 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


51 


eu  uuused  to  the 
Indians  to  do  the 
nd  and  ended  by 
It  litth^  stuff  and 
!ul  to  make  such 
1  In  getting  over 
er  at  all.  In  the 
eniaining  and  the 
much  nioro  easily 
that  lliey  can  uo 
a  tramway  at  the 
ace.  and  if  tlds  is 

disastrous.  Being 
s  at  once  supposed 
•xiiorienced  Indian 
ing  of  tlie  Chilkoot 
Miougli  to  send  tlie 
•li  more  easily  and 
I  that  the  Skaguay 

impassable  by  In- 
^■ith  rough  l)oulders 
ig  steep  precipices, 
cstruction.  and  up 
unit.  No  less  than 
:  lor  lilmsclf,  with 
rail  iiiid  for  a  h)ng 
ii'oycti.  Imi  tiic  logs 
s    iiilrcd    down   anil 

i'V  precipices.     .Men 
ctir  fofinctl  a  com 

■s  were  lilasted  ami 
a  rcsttlt  of  three 
and  l>cst   etiuippcd 

titlii'is  l»y  aliiindon- 
iMit  mile  progress, 

kaguay.  to  .luncati. 

nn>y  entirely  or  (o 

U.  Stretch,  a   n\in- 

i>  glacier.     Near  the 
stralllicd    deposits, 

isphall.  t'lil  i>"  ""' 
i.  range,  arc  noihlnu 
strnciure.  hut  «•"' 
laces,  cttt  by  itearly 


lUrdseye  View  of  Dyeii  and  ."^iiagtiay  and  liic  I'ass, 

"'riieaeilon  of  the  let'  w  hicli  luriin'il\  piiiiigiied  its  way  <lown  the 
valley,  has  grniind  tia'sc  roeks  to  pdlislicd  siiifaics.  tlie  vertical  facfs 
supporting  only  a  few  llcii(>iis,  wiille  the  liorlzotital  benches,  before  the 


52 


ALASKA.  THE  NT^V  KLDOllADO 


advent  of  the  gold  seekers,  were  covereil  with  a  thick  onrpet  of  inofss 
and  lichens,  which,  though  with  but  a  very  frail  hold  on  the  rocks, 
gave  a  sure  and  satisfnctorj  footliold.  Only  In  a  lew  places  are  there 
pebbles  or  boulders,  and  but  few  rock  slides,  but  where  these  do  exist. 
the  individual  boulders  are  so  large  and  niaased  so  irregularly,  that 
travel  over  them  is  more  dlfliciUt  than  over  the  solid  unbroken  benches. 
Of  earth  there  is  practically  none,  but  in  tlic  course  of  ages  a  black 
vegetable  muck  has  accumulated  in  some  of  the  crevices  and  in  pot- 
holes along  the  river  bottom.  Scrubby  timber,  spruce,  birch,  and  aider. 
finds  a  foothold  in  tlic  crevices,  the  latter  diieflj'  in  the  wetter  bottoms. 
and  over  such  material  tlie  trail  finds  its  way.  Distances  from  SU.i- 
guay  are  as  foHows:  I-Mrsl  crossing  nf  river.  IV^  miles;  end  of  road. 
31/^  miles;  Small  lake.  5  iuiles;  rorcui>  creek.  7Vi  miles;  second  cross- 
ing of  riv«'r  bridge,  ll^^^  ndles;  thinl  crossing  of  river  bridge.  13Vi 
miles;  fourtli  crossing  of  river  bridge,  14%  miles;  fifth  crossing  of  river, 
lord.  ITVi  miles;  summit.  19  miles;  Meadows.  26  miles;  Lake  Bennett, 
42  miles. 

"IMve  mih's  out.  at  th«'  lake,  tlie  elevation  is  4(>0  feet;  the  trail 
quickly  ascends  to  810  feet;  tlien  siid<s  to  470  at  Porcupine  creek.  In 
a  sliort  distance,  the  elevation  is  1400.  and  the  patli  zigzags  down  to  the 
second  <'rossing.  100  feet  elevation.  The  fourth  ridge  is  1400  feet  al)ove 
tlie  sea.  and  tlie  trail  almost  at  once  goes  upward  to  2100  feet.  A  de- 
scent is  tlien  made  to  the  ford.  1800  feet  liigli,  ami  tlieii  <'omes  tlie  climb 
to  ilie  summit,  an  elevation  «)f  2600  feet.  I'rom  tliis  point  to  the  lakes 
the  trail  is  not  cxtrt'mely  difti(  iilt." 

Mr.  Strelcli  says  tliere  is  no  danger  to  linman  life  in  making  the 
trip. 

Oyea  trail  was  reported  on  about  tlie  same  lime  by  .Tohii  .^.  ^filler, 
a  railroad  engineer. 

■■.\  good  road."  lie  says,  "extciids  for  ciglit  miles;  then  it  gets 
miidtly.  bill  not  very  bad.  I'aik  trains  of  horses  make  the  round  trip 
\i>  Sliccp  ('aiiip.  14  Miilcs.  in  ii  day.  carrying  250  iionnds.  From  there 
to  I  lie  loot  of  till'  lilll  tlic  road  is  not  so  good,  and  here  Is  wliere  the 
"-ci'kers  for  (.'old  are  dela.xcd  on  tliis  trail.  I'or  about  two  miles  tlie  dif- 
liciiliics  to  be  overcome  are  ctpiall.v  as  liad  as  on  the  Skagtiay  trail,  but. 
liavlng  once  gotten  over  the  sunimil.  the  trail  is  comparatively  easy. 

".\fter  talking  with  reliabh*  men.  who  have  nothing  at  stake  and 
who  have  been  over  both  trails;  after  talking  with  Indians,  who  know 
every  Inch  of  the  conntiy.  and  aflei-  my  own  experience  on  the  two 
trails.  I  can  o)ily  come  lo  one  conclusion,  and  that  is.  at  the  present 
time  tlie  Dyea  trail  Is  the  only  practical  one.  and  ll  is  getting  too  late 
to  attempt  thai   now." 

A  plain  but  trntliful  account  <>f  the  actual  condition  of  affairs  on 
the  two  trails  during  the  llilrd  week  In  .Viigiist,  at  the  height  of  the 
rush.  Is  given  by  S.  neiison.  of  rortlaiid.  Me  is  manager  of  the  Henson 
Logging  t'ompaiiy.  and  went  up  to  see  if  ll  was  |irar-tlcal  to  employ 
''nnie  of  (lie  devices  used  in  lotr^in^  to  transport  gotnls  over  the  passes. 
He   went   over  ('hllkooi    pass    to    Lake    Llnderman   and    returnwl    by 


iri)et  of  moss 
on  the  rocks, 
ices  are  there 
hese  do  exist, 
■egularly.  that 
•okeu  benches, 
ngcs  a  bhu'k 
■s  and  in  i>ot- 
•ch,  and  alder, 
etter  bottoms, 
ces  from   Ska- 
end  of  road. 
;  second  cross- 
M-  bridge.    13V^ 
•t>ssiug  of  river. 
Lake  Bennett. 

feet;  the  trail 
ipine  creek.  In 
nfis  down  to  the 

1400  feet  aliove 
100  feet.  A  de- 
comes  tlie  clind) 
)int  to  the  hikes 

p  in  making  the 

V  .b)lm  A.  Miller. 

ii's;  then  it  ^ets 
;e  the  round  trip 
ids.  From  lliere 
ore  is  wliere  tlie 
wo  miles  tiic  dlf- 
Ua;;mi.v  trail.  Ixi'. 
nparatively  easy, 
inn  111  stake  and 
idinns,  who  kimw 
Iciice  on  the  two 
is,  at  the  present 
H  KetthiK  too  late 

•Ion  of  affairs  on 
tlie  heluhl  of  liie 
m'r  of  the  Ik'tison 
•aelieal  to  emi'loy 
IH  over  the  passes, 
and    retunuMl    by 


<u 


CQ 


o 
CQ 


OQ 


<v 


If    I 


ALASKA,  Tin:  NKW  KLKOUADO 


63 


White's  pass,  lie  is  of  the  opinion  tliat  Chillvoot  pass,  tboujrli  steeper, 
is  the  most  praotital.  Tliougli  he  found  a  greater  numbei"  on  the 
Sltaguay  trail,  the  ditticulties  were  so  much  greater  than  on  the  other 
they  were  making  poor  i)rogress.  while  on  the  Chilkoot  trail  the  men 
were  getting  along  fairly  well.  He  has  reported  favorably  on  a  tram- 
way for  Chilkoot  pass,  and  one  may  be  put  in  by  the  company  he  rep- 
resents.   He  said  of  tlie  two  passes: 

"I  reached  Sheep  Camp,  the  main  slopping  place  on  this  side  of 
the  summit  of  the  Chilkoot  pass,  easily,  as  1  had  no  burden.  I  found 
probably  1100  persons  and  45  horses  on  the  trail  between  the  summit 
and  Dyea.  I  walked  across  the  trail  from  salt  water  to  Lake  Linder- 
lunu.  a  distance  estimated  to  be  27  miles,  in  14  hours.  The  trail  is 
extremely  rougli,  and  not  passable  for  liorscs  for  a  distance  of  SVg 
miles  on  the  Dyea  side  of  tlie  summit.  The  animals  are  made  to  carry 
packs  to  the  Ijcginning  of  this  point,  where  the  loads  are  taken  off 
and  carried  over  by  luinuui  beings,  the  horses  being  driven  over  loose. 
The  packs  are  rei)laced  when  the  summit  is  passed  and  carried  by  the 
liorses  until  Lake  Underman  is  readied.  Between  the  Yukon  side 
of  the  summit  and  Lake  Linderman  there  were  about  75  persons,  and 
at  Lake  Linderman  tliere  were  125  campers.  These  latter  were  maii- 
Ing  tlieir  l)oats  and  water  craft  for  the  trip  down  tlie  lakes  and  river. 
Altliougli  limber  seems  scarce,  tiiere  is  sutiicient  to  supply  the  demand 
for  Ixiat  lumber.  Tlie  largest  tree  I  saw  was  eight  inches  in  diameter 
at  tile  butt.  All  here  were  whii)sawliig.  and  it  reciuired  a  good  strong 
man  .•'l;t!V.:  ihn  ;■  d.-iys  to  get  his  out!it  ready  for  the  voyage.  I  went  to 
L.iUe  Bennett  and  t'oiind  a  sin':!!  sawmill  oiierating  there.  Tlie  owner 
told  me  he  had  orders  to  keeii  him  niniiing  lor  six  weeks. 

•"I'rom  Lake  Bennett  I  started  back  over  the  Skaguay  trail,  walk- 
ing a  distaiii-e  of  28  miles  in  12*^  hours.  My  lirst  day's  .journey  brought 
me  near  the  summit,  where  I  camped  for  the  night  and  vainly  tried  to 
sleep.  When  I  rose  In  the  morning  my  covers  were  wlilte  with  frost. 
1  I'uiiiid  very  tew  jieople  had  notteii  tlirongli.  although  there  was  a 
liost  on  the  oilier  side  making  the  endeavor.  Next  morning  I  crossed 
llie  summit  .-ind  erossed  down  on  this  side.  The  lirst  tiling  I  struck 
wiis  a  river,  knee  deep,  that  had  to  be  forded,  wiiieh  was  the  coldest 
water  I  ever  tell.  From  near  the  stunniit  down  on  the  coast  side  there 
\va«^  a  mass  ol'  men  and  horses,  working,  slrnggling  Jiiid  straining  to 
reaeii  the  top.  1  i-oimti'd  maiiy  iind  estimaleil  the  remainder,  iilaeing 
tlie  wliole  number  of  persons  trying  this  trial  at  between  3200  and  3500, 
with  .•iboiit  KiOO  horses.  .Moiig  the  trail  wt>re  numerous  dead  horses, 
where  they  had  lallen  over  rocks  or  stiidv  »'xhausted  in  tlie  mire.  I 
never  saw  men  work  like  those  people  did.  Their  siilrlts  seemed  high, 
but  they  w»>re  laboring  like  demons  from  early  until  late.  .Men  wlio 
were  Ifom  stores  and  imiised  to  niaiiii.il  labor  were  geiiiiii;  into  the 
harness  with  a  vigor  that  seemed  impossible. 

"It  Is  hard  to  deseribe  the  dltfleiillies  tliat  were  encountered  on 
this  trail  and  were  impedinir  tiiat  mass  of  humanity  so  that  tln>  dis- 
lauee  from  the  coast  to  the  summit  (d"  20  miles  was  retiuiring  a  long 


!i 


54 


ALASKA.  THE  NKW   ELPOLAI.O 


tliuo  to  rover.  'JIu'  tnill  lends  nlong  n  canyon  that  lins  in  the  bed  a 
Kninll  but  swift  nnci  tfrrlbly  cold  Ktrcnin.  Tlic  road  is  not  in  tln»  ))ot- 
toni.  It  winds  iilonjr  ilu*  side  hillH,  piobalil.v  1600  feet  above  llie  water, 
then  dii)s  down  neross  the  bottom  and  np  the  other  side  to  about  the 
>ianie  elevation.  Tnis  eban^e  from  one  side  to  tlie  other  taltes  plaee 
tliree  or  four  times,  thus  makiuK  one  clind)  a  threat  deal  more  Idlls  tiiau 
is  neoessnry  on  11  e  Chllkoot  pass.  The  surfaee  of  the  hillsides  presents 
the  jrreniest  ditlliidtl«'s.  'I'lie  trail  for  the  mosi  part  is  on  a  bi'd  of 
bould'iH  that  aie  etreniely  hard  to  climb  over.  At  places  between 
them  there  will  be  formed  a  veritable  mire,  which  Is  not  soil,  but  n 
Kn  wth  of  niKHs  nnd  iical  that  (|ulckly  becomes  mud  l)cneatii  tramping- 
In  the  bottom  of  these  udres  will  be  a  bed  of  sharp  stones  ti>at  cut  tlie 
hofseH  frlKlitfully  while  they  are  walh.v.lnjr  through  them.  Much  time 
is  also  lost  in  the  passing  of  uuln^r  and  relnrnln^  horses.  All  of  a 
nian's  pack  Is  not  on  one  animal,  and  when  li(>  p>es  a  distance  lie  un- 
loads an<l  returns  to  net  the  icmalndcr.  'I'hls  (  auses  one  slrin«r  of 
horses  to  be  pimninK  buck  while  there  is  another  koIuk  forward.  'Pbere 
ar»' only  few  places  wluM'e  lliey  can  pass  eaili  other,  and  you  will  see 
lines  of  400  and  .'00  horses  slandinu  waitiUK  for  others  to  pass.  In  this 
manner  some  ai-e  kepi  waiting;  nearly  all  the  time.  I  do  not  believe 
that  more  than  a  vt'vy  small  per  cent,  of  these  men  on  the  Ska«;uay 
trail  will  reach  tlie  summit  before  snow  tiles.  II  Is  an  impossibility 
for  niiiiiy  to  do  so.  and  ibc  remainder  will  have  a  wild  hope  before 
them 

ixnVN    rilK   YIKON. 

Wliclher  one  reaches  ilic  lake  :m  the  head  of  the  Yukon  by  the 
<'hllk(M)i  or  While  pass,  the  remainder  of  Hie  Journey  to  Ixiwson  is  the 
same,  lie  miisi  build  a  boat  and  descend  the  chain  of  lakes  and  the 
Lewis  and  VuKmi  livers,  a  dislanci'  of  about  fiHO  mih-s.  There  is 
niilliinK  specially  dlttlcult  or  daiiKernus  about  this  liiurney.  eM-tt|>t  a 
few  short  porlajfcs.  and  Ihe  passaKe  of  Ml'es  canyon  and  Wliite  l|i>rsc 
rapids,  yet  it  Is  necessar.\  In  exercise  care  and  comnmii  sense  alonu  th*t 
eiUlre  roule. 

riie  ilrsi  tliluK  necessary  is  to  consiriiet  a  boat.  A  rafi  shouhl  not 
be  trusted.  Miners  have  always  iaki>n  whipsaws  almiK  to  une  In  cut- 
tint;  <ip  timber  for  boal-<.  The  trees  are  small  and  It  takes  about  a 
Meek  to  cut  up  the  timber  iiml  anollici  to  bulhl  the  boat  Nail>  and 
oakum  sliiiuld  be  a  part  of  cM>rv  out  III  by  this  route.  Th«<re  In  now  a 
small  sin\iiiill  oil  l.iil.c  Kctin-  but  is  was  this  ycai  cniirdy  unable 
to  supply  lumber  for  all  the  boals  needed,  and  most  of  iIm>  miners  had 
to  build  their  own.  Ilonts  sold  at  lli'iO  to  $:ioii  on  Lake  Itennetl.  Hie 
flniber  near  the  head  of  the  hil>e  has  all  been  cut    imd  one  now   has  to 

ii»  back  l\^o  or  iliiee  miles  for  timber,    >r  pay  a  u I  price  In  have  his 

stuff  frelir'.i.ed  in  n  scow  bi  the  foot  of  Ihe  hike,  where  limber  1*  still 
plentiful.  .\  Kic'il  many  boats  mi-ic  taken  to  hyea  and  Skii«uay,  ?  lUne 
In  Meetloiis  and  some  In  plei  ts,  but  so  far  as  has  been  Icarnetl,  tvw  If 
miy  of  these  were  In  ken  aeroNs  the  siunnilt,  nn<1  the  mi)  vice  of  those 


tl 


I  the  bed  a 
in  tlip  bot- 
'  Iho  wnter. 
(>  about  tlie 
liikos  plncH 
•(•  hills  fhnn 
Ics  prost'iitK 
)ii  n  bed  of 

fS    l)(>t\V»>tMl 

soil,  1)iit   n 
li  triiuiping. 

Illlll    ••lit    tlH» 

M licit  time 

All   of  n 

iliinc*'  lu'  uii- 

iii<>   sti'iiiu:  of 

wiinl.    There 

yon  will  see 

MISS.     In  tlliK 

o  not    believe 

the  SUa«:nii,v 

inipoHNlblllty 

liope    before 


knkon  bv  ilie 
>iiwHon  h  the 
liikeH  and  the 
i»H.     There   In 

ley,    e\e«pt     a 

White   iloiMe 

nNr  ainnu  thtt 

(ft  slmnld  not 
to  nHe  In  itii 
akeH  iiltoiil  a 
It  Nails  atid 
liere  Is  now  a 
illrely  nnalile 
le  niiners  had 
>teiiiM>tl.  The 
le  now  liiiH  to 
•e  to  liave  Ills 
llndier  l»  niIII 
katfuiiy.  >  <mu' 
ained,  few  if 
Ivlee    of   tliose 


roOT5t;LKIQK|"v  ^     ^ 


MFl.KS   CANYON    ANP 


hand  at    A   and  exaniiil 
e\a<tly    in   the  center  In 
linK  llii'onKli  IiiikI   at    II 
('.     CroMM  river  to  l»  an( 
Make  porlaue  to  I'  and  i 
.nn  Die  rapIdH  steer  Hira 
n(  V. 


om  Dy(\i  ;MiJ  Skn^uiiy 


MHH 


HHMMI 


North 


L;iko  ;iiul  HiV( 


MIIJvS   CANYON    A  Nit    WIHTK    IKllt.SK  HAI'IHS. 

I.iiiiil  111  A  iiihI  cxiimlm'  miiyoii  Ih'I'ihm'  niiiiiintr.  !''..m'|> 
t'Xnrtl.v  In  tlii'  «'ciit«'r  In  riiiintnK  tl»<>  fiinyrui.  Allrr  tfof- 
lliiK  nu'oiiuli  liiiiil  ill  n  niiil  1<-t  Ixiiii  down  with  ii  lln<>  to 
»'.  Cnws  liver  to  l>  iiixl  h-l  Iwiil  iluw  n  wllli  lint'  li»  10. 
Miik<<  iiiii'itiKi'  to  I''  oixl  orop  l><»)*  ^vitli  liiu'  cniiil.v.  If  yoit 
inn  tlH<  rtipl<lH  Htrer  NlriilM:lit  Tor  llit>  ci'tiicr  iiinl  iImmi  IiiikI 
III  K. 


Ai't'e  /a  i/ii/ii'if'/ 


Lake  and  Kivoi   Ruuic  i  (.in  Dyea  and  SlNa>;ua>'  Id  uic  Yukuii 


roQT^fcLKlftKf^  ^     a. 


"(AMn 


wm 


TW 


ALASKA.  THK  NEW  ELIKIHAHO 


55 


who  liiivf  I'Xiiiniiu'd  iln^  conditions  nnd  returnetl  or  written  of  their 
experiences,  is  not  to  nttenipt  to  take  boats  over  the  pass,  but  to  l)uilrt 
theui  on  the  In  lies:. 

Tliose  who  KO  in  t-arly  in  the  spring  can  build  their  boats,  put  theiu 
on  runners  and  draw  or  sail  theni  on  the  Ice  of  the  lakes  till  the  river 
is  reached  and  the  ice  breaks  up,  as  was  done  by  tho  Funston  party, 
previously  sjioken  of.  Those  who  reach  the  lakes  later  can  use  both 
sail  and  oar.  The  boat  must  be  made  strong  to  endure  the  strain  it 
will  receive.  In  mivipitlnn  the  lakes  and  rivers  the  aecoinpanyinp  map 
will  be  found  useful,  the  directions  it  gives  beinn  explicit.  The  route 
leads  through  Lake  Lindernuin,  six  miles,  a  portage  to  Lake  Bennett 
of  one  mile,  down  the  lake  24  ndles,  through  Cariboo  crossing  to  Lake 
Tagish  twd  miles,  down  the  lake  19  miles,  by  river  to  Lake  Marsh  six 
miles,  across  tlie  lake  19  miles,  down  river  to  Miles  canyon  25  miles, 
three-quarters  of  a.  miU-  through  the  ea».:'on,  to  White  IIo»'.ie  rapids 
two  miles  and  a  lialf  a  mile  tlirough  tluMU,  to  Lake  I/cKarge  30  miles, 
down  the  hike  31  miles,  down  the  Lewis  and  Yi'kun  rivers,  passing 
IIoot)ilim|iia  river  at  30  ndles,  HIg  Salmon  34  uiiler.  Little  Salmon  37 
ndles.  Five  Finger  rapids  ♦i2  ndles.  Kink  rai>i«1«  fiV^  miles,  IVlly  river 
bT,  ndles,  Wldle  river  i)l  miles,  Stewart  river  9  miles,  Sixty-Mile  river 
21  miles,  Hawson  City  50  ndles,  Fortv->fil'  ..1  ndles,  Circle  (Mty  .150 
ndles, 

Theaciual  exiK'ricn<cs  of  a  parly  making  tlic  louriiey  from  Lake 
Llndernian  to  Dawson  in  .lune,  1897,  is  given  In  the  following  letter 
from  .Milton  .Misaiiiore,  of  I'lntland: 

"We  campiKl  eight  days  at  the  head  of  Lake  Linderman.  Imild- 
Ing  a  boat.  We  were  compelled  to  go  back  two  «ir  three  miles  for 
Kiiitable  timber  for  the  lumber,  as  the  trees  iliere  are  small.  an<l  tliose 
tit  till'  lumber  are  scarce.  We  lliially  gut  aboard  our  craft  and  headed 
down  the  lake  wi>li  a  strong  wind  at  tnir  ImckH.  The  wind  wax  a  little 
too  strong,  and  we  Mhlp)*ed  Mcxeral  wiillecapx  before  \vc  reached  the 
foot  of  the  lake,  six  miles  distant.  «\  hicli  was  covered  In  two  lioiirs 
Heie  wc  were  compelled  to  portage  across  to  Lake  Heiiniii.  a  distance 
of  tlii'ee-i|iiariers  of  a  mile,  riic  stream  coiinecling  tlic  two  lakes  is 
small,  veiy  >\\iri  and  sirewii  with  boulders,  w  liicli  endiingcr  a  boat. 
We  guided  oms  iliion,  li  with  the  aid  of  ropes,  after  paiKing  our  gtsxlH 
to  tlu'  desired  spot.  ' 

".M  the  head  of  Lake  Heiniett,  we  found  ijiiltc  a  village  of  tents, 
belonging  to  <tiiOpers  iiigagcd  in  building  lioats  for  the  Joiuiiey  down 
the  lakes  ami  rivers.  I'liis  lias  lieeii  the  phuc  for  Imilillng  boats  to 
naMnaie  these  stieanis  for  many  years,  and  the  timber  for  cither 
b«ials  or  rafts  has  been  used  n|i  for  several  ndles  btou.  I'mther  down 
the  lake,  about  20  mih's.  ilicre  Is  an  abundance  of  line  timber.  There 
Is  a  •>miill  portable  sawmill  at  ilie  iiead  of  '  ake  llcnneii.  Inn  (lie 
demand  last  spring  was  so  great  for  lumber  that  it  could  not  near 
till  It.  We  were  detained  here  one  day  by  head  winds,  but  on  the  after- 
n<Mtn  of  .hiiie  12  we  pidlei!  out  ilown  the  lake,  using  our  oars  all  the 
wav  down   and  thus  making  the  2»;  miles  to  the  foot  by  next   mornln;r. 


If 


66 


AI.AWKA.   JHK  NEW  ELDORADO 


"Horo  we  entered  a  small  stream  eonnectiug  Lakes  Beuuett  aud 
Tagish,  ami  were  carried  by  a  strong  current  down  to  the  head  of  the 
latter,  just  four  miles,  very  quickly.  Proceeding  down  this  last  lake 
a  few  miles,  we  came  abreast  of  Windy  Arm,  of  which  we  had  been 
warned.  This  Is  a  long  arm  coming  Into  the  lake  from  the  southeast, 
and  the  country  formation  Is  such  that  a  strong  wind  strikes  the  lake 
from  this  direction.  In  accordance  with  our  Instructions,  we  kept  well 
to  the  opposite  side,  and  when  the  wind  struck  us,  had  plenty  of  sea 
room  to  sail  straight  through.  Some  of  the  boats  we  fell  in  with  did 
not  take  tills  precaution,  and  were  blown  to  the  shore,  where  they  were 
compelled  to  pull  with  tlieir  oars  for  several  hours  before  getting  clear. 

"Erom  Lake  Tagish  we  drifted  down  to  another  lake,  named  Lake 
Mmsli.  Tills  Is  a  long,  shallow  body  of  water,  and  our  boat  struck 
l)ottoui  several  times  even  when  the  lake  was  live  miles  wide  .  In  trav- 
eling its  distance  of  20  miles,  we  saw  many  flsh,  but  they  would  not 
bite. 

"Erom  tliLs  \a\n'  we  entered  the  river  of  terrors.  When  we  had 
left  Lake  Marsli  about  26  miles,  we  saw  a  red  tlag  floating  on  the 
right  sliore.  and  several  bandana  handkerchiefs  uaileil  to  posts  aud 
trees.  We  recognized  this  as  a  warning  that  we  were  entering  the 
dreaded  Miles  canyon.  The  current  was  very  strong  here,  and  it  was 
witli  dlrtliulty  that  we  succeeded  in  iajiding  our  liont  a  few  liuudred 
feet  above  tlie  iiiovitli  of  tlie  canyon.  Here  we  foiind  some  otlier  l)oat8 
that  liiid  landed  to  taice  ii  look  liefore  tlie  leap  (a  tliiim  wldcli  every  one 
goinglhnnigh  lliin  place  sliould  do).  The  more  we  looked  the  less  we 
llk<(l  the  aspect,  but  as  tlic  only  alleriiatlve  is  ii  nu-k  ridge  portage  of 
:i  mile  In  leiitftli.  ivhicli  few  will  undertake,  wr  at  lasl  shoved  out  into 
ilie  slnjiiii  :iiid  lieaded  i'i»i  liie  iiiidille  of  Hie  i-anyon's  mouth.  Phe 
suspense  was  very  bri«i  fur  we  were  slioothm  Ihroiigb  llie  canyon  lu 
a  moment.  We  ijdi  tlin>iigli  iill  riglit.  with  luii  little  water  In  (lie  l)oat. 
b«t  enough  to  land  nntl  ball  out.  T1»e  cnnyon  Is  three-qtnu'ters  of  a 
mile  long.  .'Mid  ilie  sides  an-  |ierpemllcn';ir  bbilVs  from  200  to  UOO  feet 
high.  The  water  iti  the  middle  cf  th(>  channel  is  much  higher  than  at 
the  sides,  snd  a  iMiat  must  be  kept  as  near  it  as  iiosslble,  as,  If  II  siriUcs 
any  of  the  r<ick<  on  the  sides,  golnir  at  the  rate  of  tliree-ipiarlers  of  a 
mih>  In  two  iiiliiiites,  it  would  lie  dashed  to  pieces.  The  boat  must  be 
kept  liead  on,  ilso,  as  the  water  rolls  np  stream  lUu'  the  breakers  of 
the  oiMMUi.  If  ii  boat  of  ordinary  size  gets  sldewlse,  It  Ih  Ulirp  to  Upset. 
'I'he  river  for  two  miles  below  the  rapids  Is  inti  liillill  lll'llt'f  than 
the  ireaiii  wliile  in  ilie  iiiliyoii.  When  we  laiiiirlied  ilgHlll  and  started 
on.  wo  struck  neveral  binildeis  with  iiioie  or  less  force,  alt  of  which  we 
found  It  liiipoNsible  to  iivolil.  We  coiiiineiired  liiiiiiedlalely  to  pidl  for 
llir  li'li  bank,  and  ii-aclied  It  alMHii  Iwm  miles  beltiw,  Just  as  we  imue 
onto  another  of  tli(>  odious  ted  tings.  This  wuh  lhi>  Nlgmil  tli;it  the 
While  Ilmse  iiiplds  w ere  aliiMiil.  .\s  we  had  had  enough  excitement  for 
one  day.  we  camped  l'oi-  the  nighl. 

"We  h'ariuMl  that  four  IhiiiIn  had  rtin  the  W  Idle  Morse  ra|dds  the 
day  before,  ••iitd  that  twn  move  wotild  tiv   it  In  the  morning.    The  tlrst 


a 
o 


C 


o 
U 


C 

o 


11 


f^ 


ALASKA.  THE  NEW  ELDOHAItO 


6T 


to  rry  It  was  a  batteau,  aljout  25  tVet  loiijj;,  coutaiuiug  four  men  aud  a 
ton  of  provisions,  ^^'e  watched  them  no  tlirough.  which  was  done 
apiinrontly  in  good  style,  but  when  they  got  below  the  falls,  they  pulled 
for  shore  in  great  hasto.  Upon  investigation  it  was  found  they  had 
shjpjied  enough  water  to  damage  a  quantity  of  their  freight.  The 
second  was  a  large  scow  with  several  men  aboard,  and  eight  or  ten 
tons  of  provisions.  They  went  over,  but  by  the  time  they  could  reach 
the  shore  below,  they  were  settling  in  the  svater  badly.  They  had 
knocked  a  large  hole  in  the  bottom.  While  standing  below  the  rapids 
we  saw  a  lot  of  stutf  come  floating  down,  which  was  evidence  that 
sonje  unfortunate  had  been  upset.  We  got  .>^ome  to  shore  safely,  but 
saw  a  valise  that  we  afterwards  learned  contained  $250  float  right  near 
and  sink.  Tlie  wreck  was  the  remnants  of  a  party  of  two  and  tjieir 
boat  that  had  come  from  the  rapids  we  had  Just  passed.  Their  boat 
was  too  light  for  them  and  sank  in  the  Miles  rapids.  They  clung  to 
tile  overturned  boat  until  luckily  rescued,  but  lost  boat,  outfit  and 
everything  else  save  their  lives. 

"The  siglit  of  these  things  persuaded  us  not  to  attempt  White 
Horse  rapids,  aud  with  the  assistance  of  otliers,  who  were  aided  in 
a  like  manner  by  us.  we  let  our  l>oat  down  to  within  100  feet  of  the 
falls  with  a  long  rope,  and  then  took  it  onto  a  point  of  land  and 
scooted  it  over  to  the  river  lielow,  wltliout  any  loss   whatever.     The 

crowd  that  was  there  mutually  aiding  cacli  other  all  got  over  in  this 
manniT  in  Ave  hours. 

"I'lieso  rapids  are  tiuee-fourths  of  a  ndie  long.  After  passing  them 
\vc  drift«>d  down  the  river  25  miles,  until  we  reached  Lake  LaBarge. 
Tills  is  th(>  largest  of  the  lakes  we  passed  tlirough.  V)eing  35  miles  long 
by  10  wide.  We  encountered  head  winds  here,  making  us  just  48 
liours  in  getting  tlirough.  I'pon  leaving  this  lake  we  entered  Thirty- 
Mile  river,  so  called  from  its  lt>ngtli.  Tliis  stream  and  tiie  Hootaiinqua 
ar  their  confluence  form  tiic  Lewis.  Tliirty-Miie  river,  wlien  we  passed, 
was  aliout  th(>  Avidtii  of  the  Willamette,  and  the  nootalinq\ia  was 
aliout  the  width  of  the  Columbia,  the  two  together  nuU<ing  a  mighty 
strciiiii.  Thirty-Mile  Is  V(>ry  rapid,  and  has  some  sunken  boulders  that 
iiiiikf  it  tiangeroiis  if  ciiution  Is  not  exercised.  The  Hootaiinqua  was 
on  tlie  warpath  >  !  "n  we  reached  it.  running  like  a  ndllrace.  and  very 
muddy.  We  ca  ii\mi.  nmediately  aitcr  reaching  tlie  Hootalin(|iia.  rnd 
the  next  day  ra  l<>  u  bin  four  miles  of  Fivc-l'inger  rapids,  ji  distance 
of  125  miles  in  l,--  iioii.s.  Flve-Finger  rai)lds  are  conceded  to  be  more 
dangerous  than  JNii'cs  rapids,  whicli  we  iiad  run. 

i'^lve  hundred  and  ten  miles  from  .Tuiieau  the  F-ewis  and  Pelly 
rlvei's  tiow  together,  foriiiiiig  tiie  ^iikoii,  one  of  I  lie  grciilcsi  rivers  on 
the  American  continent.  In  many  places  it  is  more  than  five  miles  In 
MJdfli.  and  In  others  narrower,  but  deep,  and  flowing  with  a  strong 
cum  lit.  You  ciiniiot  liy  any  means  go  to  sleep  and  let  your  boat  drift. 
There  are  a  iindtitnde  of  Islands,  sometimes  four  or  five  abreast  of 
eacli  Miller,  and  as  maii.\'  clijiiinels,  some  of  wliieh  are  very  deep  and 


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58 


ALASKA,  THE  XEW  ELDORADO 


clenr  of  drift,  while  otliers  are  slinllow  or  narrow  and  full  of  drift. 
Sncli  channels  must  be  avoided. 

"After  leaving  the  lak<»s  we  made  a  daily  niu  of  over  100  miles, 
until  Dawson  City  was  reaclie<l.  We  niiched  this  i)lace  .Tune  22.  just 
62  days  from  I'ortland,  This  time  was  Just  20  days  longer  than  1  cal- 
culated on,  and  was  32  days  longer  than  Is  usually  necessary  to  malce 
the  trip.  A  person  <'an  make  the  trip  from  Portland  in  30  days." 

Tiie  passage  of  Miles  canyon  in  May.  1893.  is  tlius  descril)ed  l)y 
Frederick  Funston.  in  the  article  previously  quoted  from: 

"We  knew  Ihat  we  must  now  l)c  near  Miles  canyon,  and  kept  a 
sharp  lookout.  We  had  gone  scarcely  a  mile  when  we  whirled  aroinid 
a  Itcnd  and  saw  a  low,  brown  rocky  ridge,  divided  by  a  slit  less  than 
f.O  feet  wide,  and  at  the  same  time  heanl  tiie  roar  of  the  river  In  Its 
wild  rush  tln-ough  the  canyon.  With  one  impulse  we  pulled  frantically 
tor  the  bank,  and  got  a  line  ashore  and  aroiiml  a  tree  Just  In  the  nick 
of  time. 

"This  canyon  was  named  by  tlie  late  Lieutenant  Frederick 
Schwatka,  in  honor  of  Nelson  .\.  .Miles,  wlio  had  been  Instrumental  in 
sending  him  on  his  trip  to  tlie  Yukon  in  1883.  Tlie  river,  widcli  lias 
l>een  aliout  300  feet  wide,  suddenly  contracts  to  ab(»ut  a  tentli  of  that 
wldtli,  ami.  Increasing  its  vekxily  to  20  ndles  an  hour,  rushes  with 
terrific  fctn-e  ilirougli  a  canyon  with  absolutely  i»eriiendlcular  walls 
KKt  feet  lilgli.  The  canyon  Is  oidy  tlnee  quarters  of  a  mile  long,  ;intl 
at  its  lower  end  tlu*  river  spiu'ads  out  into  a  series  of  rapids,  <'uimlnat- 
ing  three  udles  iielow  In  the  White  Horse.  There  nic  I  wo  ways  of 
l>asslng  iMs  canyon,  one  l>y  portaging  over  the  hill  on  llic  cast  Itank 
and  the  oilier  by  boldly  running  tlinuigh.  Some  of  the  iiicu  wluiiii  we 
found  encamped  tiiere  weie  utilizing  the  former  mctliiHl.  'I'lic  boats 
were  nidoaded  and  diagged  out  of  the  water,  and  by  niciins  of  a  wind- 
lass hauled  up  the  hill  slope  1(1(1  I'cet  high,  and  I  lien  pidlcd  on  wooden 
rcdlers  for  thrc<>-quarters  of  a  mile,  being  tiually  slid  down  another 
hill  lo  the  river.  'I'he  contents  of  the  boats  were  carried  over  by  the 
men  on  their  backs.  It  is  the  most  slavish  work  Imaginable,  and  useM 
up  the  belt«'r  part  of  fotir  dayH. 

"We  had  seen  both  ways  of  jiasslng  .Miles  canyon,  (Uie  re(|iililiig 
four  diiyti  and  tlu<  other  two  minutes.  We  looked  at  each  other  In  an 
inquiring  sort  of  wiiy,  and  then,  without  a  word  walked  down  to 
whei'*>the  Nam  y  Hanks  was  moored  against  the  bank,  .Ml  took  ilieir 
idaces.  kneeling  and  facing  the  bow,  .MeConnell  In  the  stern.  .Matteiii 
amiilslilps  and  I  forward.  The  oars  were  placed  on  board,  and  each  of 
lis  used  an  ordinary  canoe  paddle.  I  must  confess  that  1  m>ver  felt 
Kicker  In  niy  life  than  as  we  shoved  awtiy  from  slime  and  started  for 
the  eiili'iiiM  e.  It  wiis  all  over  so  qiiii'klv  Ihat  we  hiirdly  i.iiew  how  It 
happened,  Marely  missing  tlie  big  rock  at  the  mouth  of  the  canyon, 
the  boat  slutted  on  Its  wild  ride.  The  wiills  seemed  lo  fairly  Il\  past 
us.  and  after  starling,  \\v  heard  a  elieer  I'i'oin  the  roeUs  above  iis,  Inn 
(lid  not  dare  lo<d<  up,  Hy  fraiitle  padilllim  we  kept  In  the  middle,  and 
off  frmn  the  canyon  walls.     T'le  seiisallon  was  akin   to  Hint  of  rldlnu 


^ 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


B» 


a  Inu'kiiig  broncho.  Tlu've  avjis  not  ii  dry  spot  on  one  of  lis  when  we 
got  throngli,  and  the  boat  U>ok  so  much  water  that  she  nearly  foun- 
dered before  we  oculd  bail  her  out.  But  a  great  weight  was  off  our 
minds,  for  Miles  canyon,  more  than  all  other  thlng.s,  is  dreaded  by 
Yukon  travelers.  Including  those  If  st  In  1894,  an  even  dozen  of  men 
have  had  their  boats  swamped  or  crushed  like  egg  shells  against  the 
cany«)n  walls,  and  not  one  of  them  has  come  alive  out  of  that  wild 
maelstrom  of  water." 

TAKTJ  ROUTE. 

Much  Interest  is  being  taken  in  n  projjosed  route  from  Taku  Inlet 
to  Liiko  Teslin.  The  Yukon  Mining.  Trading  and  Transportation  Com- 
pany is  sur\ eying  a  railroad  over  this  route,  a  brandi  of  which  Is  to 
be  extended  29  miles  up  llie  coast  to  Juneau.  Application  has  been 
made  to  the  T'nited  States  and  Canadian  governments  for  charters, 
as  the  route  starts  in  the  United  States  territory,  but  for  the  greater 
portion  of  t'.w  way  is  in  Canada.  Tlie  road  would  be  130  miles  long. 
It  Is  proi)osed  to  have  small  steamers  on  Lake  Teslin,  which  will  pass 
from  the  lake  to  the  Lewis  and  Yukon  by  way  of  Ilootalinqua  river. 
Tills  would  render  jiacklng  unnecessary,  as  one  could  land  from  the 
ocean  steamer,  go  by  cars  to  tlie  lake  and  there  board  a  steamer  that 
wouhl  land  him  at  any  jtoliit  along  the  Yukon  desired.  If  this  enter- 
l»rise  is  successfid  a1  'cast  a  year  must  t-lapse  before  it  could  be  carried 
out.  .Meanwhile'  efforts  will  be  made  to  pack  over  this  trial,  going 
part  way  np  the  Taku  in  a  steamer.  .V  i>arty  lias  gone  in  by  that  route 
this  fall,  intending  to  eam|i  for  tlie  winter  on  Lake  T*>slln. 

.Imieau  is  the  siarlliig-point  for  the  'i'*aku.  Steamers  make  the 
trip  to  the  head  of  the  lidet:  llieme  the  route  is  on  foot  straight  uj*  the 
river  to  lieadwaters  In  a  chain  of  small  lakes  nearly  or  quite  connect- 
ing with  Lakj'  Teslin.  In  th"  winter  time  heavily  loaded  sleds  can  be 
ilrawn  the  entire  distance.  There  Is  plenty  of  limber  for  boats  on 
Lake   Teslin. 

IMstances  on  this  rout<>.  as  shown  by  the  I'nlted  States  and  British 
government  maps,  are,  nearly  as  ran  be  shown,  as  IoIIowm: 

Mllei. 

,luneau  to  entrance  of  Takti  Inlet 10 

rp   I'aKu  Iidel   to  river 82 

I'p  Takn  nver  to  head  of  canoe  navigation 60 

Portage  to  mouth  of   Silver  Salmon 10 

I'orlage  lip  Sliver  Siilmnn 8 

I'linage  ilieiiee  aeross   I, like  Teslttl 80 

I.aki-   I'eslln  (luirrow  and  long) 70 

lliMitallmpia  river  i<>   Lewis 100 

Total  400 


STIC  KEEN  HOITK. 

.Xinitlier  practleable  route  Is  by   wa,\    of  Stickeen   river,   which  Is 
navigable  to  'Telegraph  ereek,   inn  milex,   and  nlieady   ha**  a   steamer 


60 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


plying  Its  waters.  From  Telegrapn  oreek  there  is  a  practicable  route 
for  stages  and  frelglit  wagons  nortli  to  Lalie  Teslin,  from  which  point 
tlie  steamer  would  be  used  as  described  for  the  Talcu  route.  It  Is  re- 
ported that  arrangements  are  now  being  made  to  build  steamers  oa 
Lake  Teslin,  to  put  on  a  stage  line  and  to  open  up  this  route  to  travel 
in  the  spring,  also  to  l)uild  a  railroad  over  the  stage  route  as  speedily 
as  possible.    This  may  be  made  the  Canadian  mail  ruote  next  year. 


DALTON  TRAIL. 

From  Pyramid  harbor  there  Is  an  overland  route  to  the  Yukon 
below  Fort  Selkirk,  on  through  the  Chilkat  pass,  lying  to  the  west  of 
Chilkoot  pass,  and  generally  called  the  Dalton  trail,  because  several 
times  used  by  a  man  named  Jack  Dalton  in  taking  horses  into  tiio  inte- 
rior. Dalton  has  a  trading  post  on  this  trail.  Several  miners  came  out 
to  the  coast  by  this  trail  the  past  summer.  In  going  over  this  route  it 
is  necessary  to  pack  to  the  Tahkeena  river,  wlien  :i  raft  or  boat  may  be 
nswl  in  descending  the  stream  to  tlie  T/Cwis.  Tiie  long  distance  to  paclc 
is  what  renders  it  impracticable  for  one  with  a  large  outfit  to  tnki'  in, 
unless  he  has  plenty  of  pa<'k  animals.  It  is  claimed  a  man  can  ride 
a  liorse  all  tliroiigli  ami  tliai  tlierc  is  plenty  of  grass.  Cattle  and  slieep 
were  driven  over  tlie  i.:ill  tlie  i>ast  summer.  Tliis  is  also  the  route  of 
a  proposed  telegraph  line  to  Dawson,  the  wires  to  be  laid  along  the 
ground, 

OTllint  ROITKS. 

Altiiougii  little  is  known  of  the  region  lying  ltd  ween  the  Copper 
river  and  (lie  Yukon.  1(  is  claimed  that  by  a  short  i»ortag<'  one  can  go 
from  llie  head  wjilcrs  of  the  Copper  river  to  tributaries  of  the  Yukon, 
find  it  Is  possible  that  travel  may  sometime  go  liy  liiat  route.  A  prac- 
ilciible  route  by  Wliiie  river.  Just  east  of  Mount  St.  Klias,  Is  also 
claimed,  and  tills  route  Is  now  lielug  ('.xpioied. 

'I'liere  Is  i>ri>lialtl\  a  practical  route  in  the  interior  from  the  Car- 
riltoo  and  Ctisslar  inliiiiig  districts  In  the  northern  end  of  Itritlsii  Co- 
lumbia to  Dease  river  and  tlieiii-e  by  the  I'elly  to  tlie  Yukon.  It  Is  also 
lUDliiibly  possible  to  g»»  north  along  llie  eastern  iiase  of  the  Itocky 
luoiinlaliis.  fi'oni  Ivliiioiitdii.  on  the  Caiiadlaii  I'licliic,  tn  .Mliiiltasca  iind 
the  fieaseaiiil  Teliy  rivers,  it  Is  said  that  liolli  of  these  routes  are 
Iteliig  tried  tills  year,  liiii  they  ire  long  and  It  would  seem  liiipractlciible 
to  use  them  for  freight.  It  Is  also  asserted  that  It  is  practlciii  to  go  by 
the  way  of  Creal  Siav(>  lake,  descend  the  .Mackenzie  river  nearly  to 
the  Arctic  ocean,  and  llieii  iiscend  llie  I'eel  river  and  miilvc  a  short 
portage  ton  trlbiiliiry  of  the  ViiUon.  Ail  sucii  routes  are  impracticable 
compared  with  those  from  Hie  coast  and  by  the  way  of  Si.  MIcliaels, 
and  will  receive  little  conslderatiiui  iit  the  Imnds  of  gold  seekers  for 
severiil  yeiirs  at  h'ast. 


i 


1 

1 

i  : 

1 

., 

1^ 
i 

i !,! 


Chapter  VI 


H 


Mines  on  the  American  Side 

Altliougli  interest  is  now  centered  in  the  Klondike  and  other  min- 
iiitr  districts  on  the  Canndiim  side  of  the  international  line,  undoubt- 
<Mlly  fiilnro  devciopnionts  on  the  American  side  of  the  line  will  be  very 
iiiiporiiint.  The  iiolicy  of  tlie  Canadian  government  in  reserving  one 
lialf  tlie  claims  for  its  own  purposes  and  of  exacting  a  heavy  royalty 
on  tlie  gold  talviMi  out  of  other  claims,  will  have  the  natural  effect  of 
(Iriving  Aincricau  prospectors  across  the  line  into  their  own  country, 
where  the  mining  laws  are  more  liberal  and  every  foot  of  mineral  laud 
is  subject  to  (Mitiy,  Avitli  no  royalty  s(iueezed  from  the  miners  by  the 
government. 

Altlioiigli  tliere  iiave  for  several  years  been  good  mines  ou  Birch 
creelc.  Miller  crcelv,  and  otlier  streams,  of  whicli  Circle  City  is  the  com- 
mercial point,  tiiere  is  a  vast  area  of  Alasiia  as  yet  unprospected,  in- 
fludliig  a  great  nuuiy  tributaries  of  the  Yukon  and  Its  chief  branches. 
.Millers  iiie  leiirnlng  tliat  the  heavier  gold  dejiosits  are  on  the  small 
streams,  and  as  tiie  headwaters  of  tlie  Yukon's  alHuents  are  prospected 
tliere  will  doubtless  be  many  rich  tllscoverles  made.  To  locate  aud 
develop  iliest>  new  districts  will  ju-  tlie  task  of  the  thousands  of  eager 
gdld-liunlers  now  pouring  Into  Alaska. 

In  regard  to  the  opportunities  for  the  prospector  on  the  American 
side  of  tlie  line  the  experience  of  Mlilon  Mlsamore  may  be  taken  as  an 
example,  lie  w(>nt  to  Klondike  in  tlie  spring,  but  came  out  this  fall 
because  he  believeil  there  would  be  a  scarcity  of  provisions.  He  will 
return  iigalii  in  tiie  spring.  lie  says  tiie  Held  on  the  American  side  is 
every  whit  lis  goml  as  across  tlie  border,  lie  left  Dawson  shortly  after 
arriving  tliei"  hist  ,iuiie.  and  procee<ied  with  liiti  boat  and  outfit  to 
Circh'CKy,  linving  found  tiial  everything  of  value  had  been  stake<l  out 
in  tiie  Klondike  regUui.  I'rom  Circle  City  lie  crossed  overland  south  to 
HIrcli  creek,  which  nearly  parallels  the  Yukon  for  some  distance.  Af- 
ter spending  some  timi'  In  that  region  Inking  in  the  MasttKlon,  Miller. 
l»eadwo<Ml,  Kagle  and  Oreeiihorn  creeks,  he  came  back  to  Circle  City, 
and,  loading  his  boat,  proceeded  about  400  miles  di>wn  stream  to  the 
MuniMiU.  where  new  gold  diseoveripH  had  been  reported.  Here  he  lo- 
cated 11  cliilni  an<l  would  have  remained,  but  t'ound  tliiit  he  could  not 
gt't  supjdles. 

.Mong  the  streams  entering  the  Areth-,  Mehring  sea  and  the  Paelflc 
there  Is  as  gocnl  prospect  of  discovering  rich  diggings  as  on  the  Yukon. 
•  Jold  liiiH  been  t'oiiiul  on  the  Sehiwlk.  Muckland  and  Kowak  rivers,  en- 
tering KatKbiic  sound.  I>ut  no  attemjit  has  been  made  to  work  the 
placers  there     Tooli's   Inlet    has   been    partially   i>rospecte<l.    and   l««t 


1i' 


■i-  1 


i    11 T 


t-  :  ( 


62 


ALASKA.  THE  NEW  ELDOKADO 


Lake  Keiiiit'tt,  from  tlic  SkiiKHiiy  Trail. 

winter  300  uiiner.s  wore  at  \\orIv  tli(>ro,  jsoine  of  tlieiii,  liowover,  liavluj; 
since  left  for  tlie  Kloiullive,  under  tlie  Inipulso  so  cliaracteristlo  of 
miners,  to  desert  dlK^inKs  wortli  |10  a  day  wliemver  lliey  iiear  of  any- 
tldng  better.  However,  (lulle  a  numljer  of  otiiers  liave  j^one  to  Coolc's 
inlet  this  year.  Tlie  goM  found  tiu>re  is  coarse.  As  there  is  a  vast 
unexplored  rej^ioii  around  the  inlei,  it  would  seem  tiiat  tlie  prospect 
before  tlie  searcher  for  jfold  tliere  must  be  as  ko(m1  as  is  olfered  in  tlie 
interior,  which  is  so  niudi  more  dilllcult  to  leacli,  so  much  more  expen- 
sive as  a  place  of  residciKc  and  lias  sucli  dlsadvaiilaKes  of  rllmate. 
The  same  may  be  said  of  tlie  rei^lon  of  Copper  river  and  Its  numerous 
triluitaries  in  tlie  vi<'lnily  of  I'rince  William  sound.  Here  is  anotiier 
l)romisiiifi^  tield  for  exploitation.  wliei'(>  Kold  has  already  been  found, 
t/ulte  a  ninnb(>r  liave  none  into  tlial  rewloii  lliis  year. 

AlouK  the  coast  at  Lituya  liay  discoveries  have  Ikhmi  nuide.  also  in 
the  beach  sandH  for  30  inileH  near  Kaliulai,  In  ruby  and  bla<'k  saiid, 
wliere  considerable  work  has  been  done,  'i'lie  region  Inland  lia>.  been 
liractlcally  unexplored.  On  I'litfa  island  a  line  iiuiiriz  ledRc  has  been 
uncovered  and  a  teii-stami)  mill  was  erccled  a  few  years  ago, 
luce  Increased  to  forty  stamps.  This  mme  ulves  promise  of  payiiiK 
large  dividends,  notwilhstandiiiK  the  threat  i>Npense  of  working  a 
mine  HO  far  from  any  base  of  supplies.  On  <iolofnlii  bay,  in  Norton 
Hound,  a  rich  silver  ledge  was  discovered  twelve  years  ago.  .V  sliip 
load  of  quartz  taken  to  San   I'raiicjscM  proved  so  rich  that  a  <M)mpMiiy 


ALASKA.  THE  NEW  ELDOUADO 


was  oi-gut-ized  In  1892  and  $60,000  were  expended  iii  developmeut.s. 
The  ore  still  proved  to  be  rich,  Init  trouble  In  the  company  for  several 
years  prevented  further  work. 

The  region  generally  known  as  Southeast  Alaska,  embracing  the 
coast  and  adjacent  islands  soutli  of  Mount  St.  Elias,  has  been  mined 
more  or  less  for  the  past  twenty  years.  Gold  was  discovered  near 
Sitka  in  1873.  and  prospecting  then  began;  in  1880  gold  was  discovered 
in  the  vicinity  of  Juneau,  and  soon  prosi)ectors  were  scattered  all  along 
tlie  coast  and  began  to  work  their  way  inland.  The  town  of  .Tuneau. 
so  called  in  honor  of  .losepli  Juneau,  the  lirst  man  to  develop  mines  in 
tliat  region,  sprang  into  existence  as  a  result  of  the  discovery  of  plac- 
ers on  (!old  creek,  from  which  considerable  gold  has  been  taken. 
W'liile  tlie  excitement  of  these  discoveries  was  still  drawing  miners  to 
Alaska,  it  became  known  that  Ji  man  known  in  the  camp  as  French 
I'ete,  liad  discovered  a  Iarg(>  Ie<lge  of  (juarlz  on  a  liigli  mountain  side 
on  I>ouglass  island,  across  the  l»ay  from  .Juneau.  Tliis  was  purchased 
t)y  John  Treadwell  for  $400.  Tlirough  a  series  of  years  there  has  been 
a  stedy  development  of  lliis  property,  until  now  it  has  the  largest 
stamp  mill  in  the  world,  containing  300  stam(is,  and  arrangements  are 
on  foot  to  Increase  the  number  to  500.  Tliis  is  a  low-grade  ore,  but  so 
favorably  is  the  ledge  situated  for  clieap  working,  so  easy  is  the  ore  to 
work  and  so  wide  is  tlie  ledge,  that  it  is  said  tlie  ore  can  be  mined  and 
milled  for  50  cents  a  ton,  and  that  great  protit  is  being  made  on  ore 
ruimlng  less  than  $2  to  the  ton,  and  an  ouli»ut  of  $100,000  a  montli 
produci'd.  Ill  connection  with  this  mtne  it  is  necessary  to  speak  of  the 
Hear's  Nest  mine  swindle,  wliicli.  for  several  years  had  su(  h  an 
iiiifa\()ra!>li>  "ITect  upon  the  mineral  development  of  Alaska.  Tliis 
was  nothing  less  than  the  organization  of  a  company  to  work  a  ledge 
adjtiining  the  Treadwell.  which  ledge  was  artistically  "salted"  for  the 
heiiellt  of  experts  Ity  substituting  Treadwell  ore  for  tlie  barren  rode 
taken  out  of  the  lU-ar's  Nest.  Large  blocks  of  stock  were  .sold,  chiefly 
In  Kngland,  and  many  i)(H)ple  were  swindled,  with  the  result  that 
.Miiska  was  looked  upon  unfavorably  as  a  tield  for  mining  Investments 
for  a  number  of  years. 

Thougli  capitalists  were  tiiiis  frightened  away,  the  indefatigable 
proiqiector  contiiHied  Ills  work  and  many  placer  claims  and  quartz 
locations,  liotii  gold  and  silver,  were  made.  Now  that  conlUlence  in 
Alaskan  mines  lias  been  restoreil  by  the  wonderful  discoveries  in  the 
Yukon  region,  capital  may  be  expected  to  lake  hold  of  these  numerous 
(|uartz  ledges  along  the  coast.  A  dozen  stamp  mills  are  at  work  on 
<iold  creek,  Sheeii  creek,  Sum  iMim  and  at  other  iioints  within  a  few 
miles  of  ,luiieMU,  and  new  ones  are  being  erecte<l  every  year.  The 
most  noted  of  the  mines,  besides  the  Treadwll,  are  the  Mexico,  Heady 
lUilliuii.  Silver  C^ueen  and  Hahl  Kagle.  There  are  rich  ledges  on  Ber- 
iier's  bay.  Lynn  canal,  and  on  Kunta  bay,  .Vdmiralty  Island,  also  on  the 
I'amous  tiUu'ier  bay,  where  rich  galena  has  been  found.  Further  to 
the  soutli.  on  .Vniiette  island  and  on  Prince  of  Wales  Island  very  rich 
iliiarlz  has  lieeii  (llscovercd,  but  as  yet  little  has  been  doue  to  develop 
the  ledgea. 


til  , 


1 


i}^ 


in 


64 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


On  tho  whole,  it  would  seoni.  Avhether  capitalist  or  prospector,  it  is 
wholly  unueoessary  to  neglect  the  opportunities  offered  by  the  quartz 
locations  alrercJy  made  and  the  vast  area  of  unexplored  country  on  the 
American  side  of  the  line  and  join  the  throng  rushing  into  tho  Gana- 
rlian  gold  fields  on  the  Yukon,  ^^'hore  only  half  of  the  claims  are  sub- 
ject to  entry  and  a  royalty  is  exacted  upon  the  gold  taken  from  the 
earth. 

The  output  of  gold  in  1896  is  given  below,  to  show  the  develop- 
ment of  mines  other  than  those  on  the  Yukon.  That  which  is  credited 
to  Y'ukon  placers  nearly  all  oaine  from  the  American  side  of  the  line. 
Birch  creek  being  on  that  side  as  well  as  many  of  the  other  districts 
lumpetl  together  in  one  total: 

Nowell  fiold  Mining  Company.  35  stamps $    160.000 

Berner's  Bay  Mining  and  Milling  Company.  40  stamps 125.000 

Alaska.  Treadwell  Gold  Mining  Company.  240  stamps 800.000 

Alaska  :srexican  Gold  Mining  Company,  120  stamps 4.50.000 

Alaska  Commercial  '.'ompany,   40  stamps 500.000 

Bald  Eagle  Mining  Company.  4  stamps 200.000 

Ebner  Gold  Mining  Company.   10  stamps 35.000 

Juneau  Gold  Mining  Company.   30  stamp.s 35.000 

Julian  Gold  Mining  Company,   10  stamps 20.000 

Alaska  AVillouglil)y  Gold   Mining  Company.   10  stamps 15,000 

(Jrecn  mine.  Norton  Sound,  10  stamps 15.000 

Total  output  of  quartz   mines $2,355,000 

Lltuya  Itay  placer  mines 15,000 

C(M)k   Inlet  placer  mines 175,000 

Binli  ireek  district.  Yukon   mines 1.300,000 

Other  Yukon  districts 800,000 

From  several  small  creeks  in  van'fius  jiarts  of  tlie  territory...        25,000 

'I'oial   output    14.670.000 


Chapter  VII 


How  and  Where  to  Outfit 


What  to  take  and  where  to  >i\iy  it  are  two  important  (Hic-^tjons 
every  person  starting  lor  Alaska  must  determine,  i  lie  tlrst  <iep>Mids 
much  upon  th.e  route  by  which  it  is  jhu'pokjkI  to  enter  the  gohl  fields, 
wlille  the  second  sliotild  be  settled  by  tlie  condltlctns  «if  eonvenletlce 
and  eiu'onomy. 

In  regartl  to  wliere  an  «>iitllt  shuui<l  tie  jirtKured.  there  Ih  niMhing 
clearer  than  the  fact  that  it  Is  an  act  of  lolly  to  ptirehase  It  In  any  of 


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the  Eastern  cities  and  pay  for  its  transportation  across  tlie  continent, 
since  it  can  be  procured  in  Portland  fully  as  cheaply  and  the  extra 
cost  and  bother  be  avoided.  Thus  economy  suggests  a  delay  in  this 
matter  till  the  coast  is  reached.  Economy,  however,  is  not  the  only 
reason  for  pursuing  this  course.  No  Eastern  city  is  prepared  to  sup- 
ply just  the  things  necessary,  nor  do  the  merchants  there  know  what 
is  required  nor  how  it  should  be  packed  for  transportation.  This  latter 
is  a  matter  of  vital  importance,  for  if  o.  .  provisions  are  spoiled  or 
lost  during  the  hard  trip  across  the  pnsse/  :md  down  the  lakes  and 
rivers,  or  even  in  the  hold  of  the  vessel  gohif  north,  it  may  mean  com- 
plete failure  to  the  gold-hunter.  The  FtMdy  tlie  merchants  of  Portland 
have  given  this  subject  and  the  ex^o  'ience  they  liave  had  and  the 
special  attention  they  have  given  to  laying  in  stocks  of  the  special 
things  requii'ed,  render  that  city  a  desirai.le  jjlace  in  wliicli  to  procure 
an  outfit. 

Portland  is  the  chief  commercial  point  of  the  Pacific  Northwest. 
In  business  transacted,  baulc  clearings,  foreign  commerce,  etc.,  it 
equals  all  the  other  cities  of  that  i-ogion  combined.  It  ha^  regular 
steamer  lines  to  Alaska,  to  San  Francisco  and  to  Japan  and  Cliina,  and 
is  the  terminus  of  more  lines  of  transcontinental  railroad  than  any 
other  city  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Stocks  of  grods  are  so  large  and  com- 
petition is  so  free  and  strong,  that  Alaska  outfits  may  be  purcliased  at 
the  lowest  possible  figure.  The  man  who  outfits  in  person  will  be  cer- 
tain of  getting  the  best  quality  of  goods  at  the  lowest  prices,  will  have 
the  benefit  of  experience  in  selection  and  packing,  and  will  not  be 
likely  to  purchase  a  lot  of  things  not  needed  or  unsuitable  to  the  condi- 
tions as  he  will  find  them  in  Alaska.  Experience  this  year  shows  that 
outfits  can  be  purchased  in  Portland  cheaper  than  at  any  ether  point 
on  the  Pacific  coast  and  at  a  considerable  saving  over  cost  and  trans- 
portation from  the  East. 

If  one  is  going  in  by  the  St.  Michaels  route  he  will  not  require 
those  things  necessary  to  get  J.is  outfit  over  the  passes  and  down  the 
lakes  and  rivers,  but  his  stock  of  provisions  and  clothing  would  be  the 
same  for  either  route.  As  to  provisions,  one  sliould  either  take  enough 
for  six  months  or  eighteen  months,  because  if  he  remains  longer  than 
six  months  he  must  remain  a  whole  year  longer,  and  can  not  dejtend 
upon  being  able  to  buy  provisions.  Those  who  went  into  the  mines 
this  year  short  of  supplies,  expecting  to  purchase  them,  are  now  in 
danger  of  starvation,  and  the  governi'.ent  is  endeavoring  to  find  a  way 
of  sending  in  supplies  to  their  relief,  ^  ''h  small  prospect  of  being  able 
to  do  80.  A  man  without  ample  supplies  can  accomj)llsh  nothing.  He 
cannot  go  out  on  a  prospt»eting  trip,  which  may  take  him  a  year,  nor 
can  be  procure  work  in  mines  already  located,  since  the  owners  will 
not  hire  men  who  can  not  subsist  themselves,  as  they  would  bo  obliged 
to  feed  them  from  their  own  scant  stores.  It  has  been  impossible  for 
the  river  steamers  to  take  in  enough  supplies  for  those  dependent  upon 
them  this  year,  and  this  will  doubtless  be  the  condition  of  affairs  next 
year,  for,  although  there  will  certainly  be  a  large  increase  of  steamers 


■il   ■; 


i 


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66  ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 

on  the  liver  next  season,  there  will  be  a  proportionate  Increaso  In  the 
population  dependent  upon  purchasing  supplies  In  the  mines.  Every 
consideration  of  prudence  and  foresight  demands  that  the  gold-bunter 
take  with  him  both  food  and  clothing  for  at  least  eighteen  months. 

The  question  of  what  food  to  take  and  how  much  must  be  settled 
by  the  requirements  of  the  climate.  In  the  first  place  allowance  must 
be  made  for  the  fact  that  In  that  cold  climate,  with  the  physical  exer- 
tion the  gold-hunter  will  be  subject  to,  a  great  deal  more  food  per  day 
will  be  consumed  than  at  home.  The  system  denuinds  In  that  climate 
an  excessive  amount  of  food,  especially  fat,  such  as  bacon,  which  Is 
the  staple  article  of  diet.  A  man  of  long  experience  In  the  Yukon  says 
that  the  estimate  of  food  should  be  at  least  100  jiouuds  per  month  for 
one  man.  It  is  a  waste  of  time  and  money  and  a  possible  Imperiling 
of  life  to  take  anything  but  the  best  quality  of  gootls.  On  this  basis, 
supplies  for  eighteen  moutlis.  witli  tlielr  cost  in  Portland,  based  upon 
the  very  best  (luallty  of  goods,  would  be  as  given  in  the  table  at  the 
end  of  this  chapter. 

So  far  ns  elotlilng  Is  concerned,  one  can  take  what  meets  his  own 
ideas,  provided  he  Includes  in  liis  list  not  less  tlian  one  pair  of  gum 
boots,  one  pair  of  heavy  leatlier  shoes,  half  a  dozen  pairs  of  heavy 
woolen  socks,  half  a  doxen  pairs  of  woolen  mitts  and  lleece-lined 
leatlier  mitts,  two  lieavy  woolen  shirts,  three  suits  of  heavy  woolen 
underwear,  a  heavy  mackinaw  coat,  two  pairs  of  mackinaw  pants, 
three  itnirs  of  overalls,  three  pairs  of  ten-pound  blankets,  of  wlilcli  the 
Oregon-iiiake  art-  tlie  best,  several  yards  of  mosciuito  netting,  as  nios- 
<]ultoes  are  a  pest  there,  a  pair  of  simw  glasses  to  protect  the  eyes 
from  snow  blindness,  a  (Jinvas  sleeping  bag  or  n  rubber  blanket  to  sleep 
on,  a  turpiinlin  to  cover  supplies  witli  a?id  a  tent  to  live  in.  If  sleeping 
Itags  ai''  laUeii  the  blankets  will  not  be  necessary,  or  not  so  many  will 
be  re(|ulre<l.  I''or  sliciilng  lings  one  cnn  gel  !i  plain  canvas  bag,  or  one 
lined  with  iiiarUlnaw  or  pelt,  or  a  double  bag  of  heavy  woolen  and 
ciuvas.  (Jenerally  speaking,  the  sleei)lng  bag  posst'sses  more  warmth 
for  tlie  same  wi«iglit  than  plain  blankets.  ,\s  to  foot  wear,  the  .Vlnska 
"mmklncks"  air  worn  most  of  the  llnii'.  being  a  sort  of  moccasin  boot 
made  by  the  Indians  and  to  be  had  only  in  Alaska.  Leather  slio<>s 
crack  and  are  mined  in  a  short  (hue,  and  gum  boots  are  worn  only 
while  at  work  in  the  wet.  Tlie  Importance  of  buying  tlic  best  (luallty 
of  (>vi'r,\  tiling  can  not  be  too  strongly  Insistt-d  upon,  and  this  applies  to 
clothing  fully  as  ninch  as  to  groceries.  Not  to  do  so  niany  mean  dis- 
tress and  even  failiwe. 

The  matter  of  packing  sujiplics  on  the  owner's  back  is  one  not  to 
bo  overlooked.  Although  one  may  be  nbic  to  lilic  his  packing  don(>  In 
going  In,  cither  by  Ikh'sc,  dogs  or  Indians,  tliere  will  be  many  times 
when  lie  will  be  conipelled  to  do  this  Kind  ^,\'  work  for  hiniself,  and  he 
should  erpilj)  himself  for  It.  The  Merrlain  pack,  which  suii|H)rls  most 
of  the  weight  on  the  hips.  Is  a  splendid  device.  The  Yukon  packing 
Iratiie  Is  also  a  line  thing,  the  weight  being  put  on  the  Khiuilders  and 
head,    t'oinnion  packing  straps  are  of  little  nne. 


ALASKA.  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


67 


If  one  Is  going  by  the  -overland  route  by  the  lakes  and  river,  he 
should  take  an  equipment  foi  building  a  boat,  including  oakum,  oars, 
etc.  In  any  event  he  should  have  a  set  of  ordinary  tools,  with  nails, 
etc.,  for  use  in  minini,,  building  cabins  and  other  work.  For  cooking 
utensils  the  essentials  are  a  small  steel  stove,  and  granlteware  pots, 
pans,  pails,  cups,  etc.,  as  this  is  the  most  durable  and  easiest  to  keep 
clean.  If  horses  or  dogs  are  taken  for  packing  or  drawing  sleds,  care 
should  be  taken  to  get  proper  pack  saddles,  harness,  etc.  As  to  boats, 
the  experience  this  year  has  been  that  it  is  better  to  build  them  at  the 
lakes  than  to  attempt  to  take  them  over  the  pass.  Hundreds  of  boats 
were  taken  nortli,  either  complete  or  knocked  down,  and  were  sold  or 
abandoned.  When  it  was  almost  impossible  to  get  the  necessaries  of 
life  and  mining  over  tlie  passes,  Imats  and  other  things  had  to  be  left 
behind.  Next  spring,  perliaps,  such  tilings  cr»n  be  taken  In  more  easily 
over  the  snow.  With  such  numbers  going  in  at  one  time  it  would  cer- 
tainly be  better  to  take  in  a  boat,  specially  constructed  for  the  pur- 
pose, if  arrangements  can  be  made  for  getting  It  over  the  pass.  For  use 
over  tlie  snow  sleds  will  be  recjuired,  and  they  sliould  be  made  very 
strong,  tliough  as  liglit  as  possil)le  consisl-Mit  witli  strengtii,  and  tdiod 
witli  steel  runners.  Only  the  franco  of  a  sled  is  necessary.  Plenty  of 
rope  should  be  taken  for  lashing  and  for  other  purposes. 

To  sum  up  the  whole  matter  of  e<iulpment  in  a  few  words,  do  not 
attemi>t  (o  select  it  unlll  you  reacli  I'ortland  and  have  fully  determined 
upon  tiie  route  by  whicli  you  will  reach  the  mines,  a  matter  which  you 
will  be  beticr  able  to  setlle  there  and  at  tliiit  time,  tlian  at  liome,  be- 
ciiiise  th(>  latest  and  most  autlientic  information  will  be  at  your  com- 
mand. Having  determined  tiiis  (|uestiou,  buy  nn  outfit  suitable  to  the 
route  you  are  lu  travt'l,  get  oidy  tlie  best  (lualhy  of  everytlilng.  and 
avail  yourself  fully  of  tlie  valuable  knowledge  and  experience  of  the 
rortlaiid  merchants  in  making  your  selections  and  In  packing  your 
outllt  so  that  It  will  '^tiind  the  Joiirne.v  In  good  condition  and  be  packe<l 
in  the  most  coin-cnlenl  form  for  handling. 

Uegular  steamer  lines  have  been  established  between  Port'and  and 
tlu>  north,  end  the  best  ecpilpped  vessels  in  the  Alaska  trade  will  make 
trips  as  freiiiiently  as  once  a  week  In  the  spi'liig  and  suinmi  r.  One 
ran  go  to  rorlland  with  only  the  niont'y  necessary  for  mi  oiittlt.  spend 
a  few  days  there  selecting  Just  what  h  retiulred,  and  then  start  north 
llioroughly  <'(|iilpped  for  the  task  before  him  and  with  less  nnccrtaliity 
as  to  the  snitnlilllty  of  liis  outllt,  at  less  cxpciiN  '  lo  lilnist'lf  than  by 
pursuing  any  other  etuu'se.  Sailing  dnlrs  of  steamers  will  bo  pub- 
lished by  llifdregon  Hallway  tV  Navluiilion  ("oinpfiiiy  in  ample  tlmt> 
In  rhr  spring.  .\  bl  monihly  line  to  .hmcau,  Sitka.  l»yea  i^nd  Skaguay 
will  run  all  winter. 

Sailing  dates  of  steamers  and  other  Information  may  be  secured 
later  by  addressing  the  Secretary  of  the  'rransporlalloii  rummlttee, 
t^hamber  of  Coinnn'rce.  Portland.  Oregon. 


M 


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68 


ALASKA.  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


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HEALTH  AND  MEDICINES. 

In  regard  to  what  to  take  in  the  way  of  medicines  and  what  to  ex 
pect  In  the  matter  of  diseases,  etc.,  a  prominent  physician  gives  the 
following  advice: 

To  give  absolutely  safe  medical  advice  on  the  Subject  of  who 
should  and  who  should  not  go  to  the  Klondilie  is  a  hard  task.  There  is 
much  exaggeration  current  about  the  risks  involved  in  the  journey. 
The  common  talk  about  tlie  fatal  effects  of  Arctic  cold  may  be  dis- 
counted largely  Man — especially  man  reared  In  tlie  temperate  zone — 
has  the  power  of  assimilating  himself  with  climatic  changes  more  than 
any  other  mammal.  Clianges  from  hot  to  cold,  from  moist  to  dry,  from 
hlgli  altitudes  to  sea  const  and  the  reverse  are  found  beneficial  In  In- 
dividual cases  in  the  higliest  degree.  For  many  constitutions  tlie  brac- 
ing effect  of  a  trip  to  northern  latitudes  is  positively  beneficial.  Snow 
and  ice  arc  not  in  themselves  by  any  means  Injurious  to  the  pliyslcal 
health  of  the  average  native  of  tlie  temperate  zone.  They  mr.y  bo  dis- 
agreeable, but  they  are  not  unhenlthlul,  unless  the  soil  of  the  district 
where  they  occur  is  of  a  nature'  to  retain  dampness.  Clays  are  bad  in 
this  respect;  gravelly  soils  are  safe.  Scientific  records  have  well  estab- 
lislied  that  llio  average  duration  of  human  life  is  greater  In  proportion 
as  the  residence  Is  advanced  from  the  eijuator  towards  the  poles. 
There  are  exceptions,  of  course,  but  only  such  as  prove  the  general 
rule.  There  is  more  risk  of  disease  by  far  in  a  voyage  to  India  or 
Panama  llian  In  one  to  llehrliig  stralls.  Climate,  however,  is  not  the 
only  thing  lo  be  considered  when  'here  Is  (piestlon.  In  a  medical  sense, 
of  the  risks  of  a  distant  and  lii()orlous  exptMllllon  undertaken  by  a 
multitude  of  persons  widely  dllVerlng,  as  all  multitudes  must.  In  the 
capacity  of  Individuals  for  standing  hardship  and  privations. 

To  the  weak,  or  those  disposed  lo  special  allnieiits,  conditions 
which  are  only  Invigorating  to  the  man  in  average  health  are  often 
absolutely  fatal.  Weak  hearts  and  w(>nk  lungs  cnniiot  face  northern 
blasts  or  tciiiptMiilures  below  zero,  HheumatlNiu  and  its  klndit'd  alTec- 
tlons  are  etiually  lll-lllted  for  such  tests.  Nor  ar(>  sucli  persons, 
wh(>ther  young  or  old,  as  have  b"eii  long  accustomed  to  purely  seden- 
tary (ie<'iipalloiis,  or  to  lives  of  ease  and  luxury,  physically  lilted  for 
tho  hardslilim  of  the  Klondike.  In  the  former  the  vital  and  resistive 
powevs  have  never  been  developed  In  the  lalt(>r  they  have  been  sai>ped. 
Wea  <  eyes  woulil  be  severely  tested  by  the  glare  id'  a  snow  covered 
land,  and  blindness  Is  but  one  of  the  dangers  to  b(>  feared  by  Arctic 
explorers.     Snow  glasses  should  be  a  part  of  every  iiiairs  eipilpinent, 

hi  brief,  I  would  say  that  persons  sul)Ject  to  troubles  of  the  heart, 
throat  or  lungs  should  stay  away  from  tho  Klondike.  Physical  ex- 
haust Ion.  colds,  scurvy,  rheuninllsin  and  snow  lillndness  are  the  ciilef 
dangers  l(»  be  aiipreheiided  on  the  trip  from  a  medical  standpoint. 
Citric  neld  1h  a  gmxl  suhstlttite  for  lemons  as  a  preventative  «tf  scurvy. 
Lime  juice  Is  also  goiMJ,  I'or  the  healthy  In  oIIiit  respects  than  those 
mentioned  there  Is  no  more  danger  to  be  dreaded  than  in  any  onllnary 
change  of  roHldencu'.    Alaska   is  not    In   Itself  more  unhealthful   than 


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Dock  Sa'iie  Ik'toiv  Sailiiiji  ot  an  Alaska  Steamer. 


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ALASKA.  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


69 


lUinoiB,  Norway  or  the  northern  parts  of  Scotland.  Only  those  that 
are  able  to  bear  hardships  should  face  them,  but  as  far  as  hygienic 
conditions  go  there  need  be  no  special  apprehension  on  the  score  of 
Alaska.  In  conclusion  I  would  say  to  those  of  weak  lungs  and  weak 
hearts,  and  sedentary  people  generally,  stay  at  home.  The  others  may 
balance  their  chances  without  need  of  doctors'  advice.  I  would  ad- 
vise all  persons  who  contemplate  going  to  the  Klondike  region  to  In- 
clude in  their  outtitw  a  medicine  chest  composed  of  the  following  drugs, 
the  cost  of  whicl'  sliould  be  within  |10: 

Quinine  pills,  50;  compound  cathartic  pills,  50;  acetauilide  tablets, 
three  dozen;  citric  acid,  four  ounces;  lime  juice,  one  quart;  chlorate 
potash,  one  box;  mustard  plasters,  six;  belladona  plasters,  six;  carbolic 
salve,  four  ounces;  chloroform  liniment,  eiglit  ounces;  Witch  Hazel, 
one  pint;  essence  ginger,  four  ounces;  paregoric,  four  ounces;  laud- 
anum, one  ounce;  borax,  four  ounces;  tincture  iodine,  one  ounce;  spirits 
nitre,  two  ounces;  tincture  iron,  one  ounce;  cougli  mixture,  eight 
ounces;  toothacli  drops,  (uie  l)ott]e;  viiseliiu'.  one  bottle;  iodoform,  two 
drams;  lint,  two  yards;  assorted  bandages,  one-half  dozen;  rubber  ad- 
hesive plasters,  two  feet;  absorbent  cotton,  four  ounces;  Monsell's  salts 
for  liemorrhages — In  (luantilles  In  accordnnct'  witli  the  person's  liabil- 
ity to  attacks  of  the  trouble,  needles  and  silk  thread. 

For  those  who  use  the  iunneopathlc  remedies  a  complete  Klondike 
medicine  chest  has  been  prepared,  including  bandages,  etc. 


I 


,ii 


A    WAV   Sr(i«;KSTl()NvS. 


Experience  Is  the  best  teaclier,  and  tliere  are  enough  experienced 
yiUvon»>rs  who  have  returneil  from  the  mines  to  make  the  best  of  ad- 
vice available.  From  them  tiie  following  suggest loiis  liave  been 
gatliered: 

A  i)ariner  Is  almost  necessary,  but  It  Is  belter  to  have  none  than 
to  select  one  you  -an  not  tr>ist  Implicitly  and  with  whom  you  can  not 
get  along  well  under  lhi>  most  trying  clrciimsiances.  I'arties  of  moi'e 
than  two  or  three  rarely  get  along  well  together  and  soon  split  up, 

1U>  agreeable  to  all  and  helpful  to  the  really  unfortunate,  for  there 
Is  no  telling  wiien  yon  may  netMl  help  yomself,  Imt  do  not  be  lmi)osed 
upon  and  di>  not  give  your  conlldeiue  to  strangers.  Ite  friemlly  to  all 
but  be  extrt'mely  careful  with  whom  you  are  Inthnate.  The  man  who 
Is  sober,  Indusdious  and  frugal  will  have  liie  same  advantages  over 
the  protllgate  there  as  elsewhere. 

In  dealing  with  the  Indians  make  a  plain  aureement  with  then) 
and  pay  them  all  you  agree  to.  Do  not  try  to  cheat  them  and  do  not 
let  them  Impose  upon  yon.  They  will  work  for  the  highest  bidder. 
They  will  not  look  at  any  money  Imt  coin.  Paper  money  Is  useless  In 
the   VldvOU. 

Tak(>  i\eedles,  thread,  buttons,  comb,  bnisli,  looking  glass  and  such 
other  tnilet  and  dnniestle  inlleles  as  ynn  need,  also  a  ball  of  twine, 
Rnll  needles  and  wax.     Make  a   canvas  ease  with  pockets  to  hold  all 


i 


k 


70 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


these  things,  one  that  can  be  rolled  up  and  tied.  Suit  your  own  Ideas 
as  to  smoking  and  chewing  tobacco,  but  remember  that  it  Is  almost  as 
good  as  money  and  you  can  scarcely  take  too  much. 

Fine  wove  mosquito  bar  Is  necessary,  as  mosquitoes  swarm  there 
in  the  summer  time.  Gnats  are  also  a  pest,  and  carbolic  salve  is  good 
for  their  bites.    Flees  are  plentiful. 

Take  fishing  tackle  with  you,  as  there  is  plenty  of  flsh.  A  short  gun 
is  desirable  for  ducks  and  grouse,  though  it  adds  to  the  burden  to  be 
carried  and  there  is  little  time  to  hunt. 

You  neetl  not  take  traps,  as  it  is  against  the  law  for  white  men  to 
trap  fur-bearing  animals  in  Alaska. 

Granite  ware  or  aluminum  cooking  utensils  are  the  best  and  eas- 
iest to  keep  clean,  but  the  latter  cost  more  than  the  former,  and  both 
more  than  steel. 

Do  not  use  oiled  canvas  for  packs,  nor  rely  upon  oiled  clothing. 
The  extreme  cold  makes  oiled  cloth  crack  and  your  outfit  may  be 
spoiled.  Heavy  canvas,  either  plain  or  parafllned,  known  as  "aqua- 
pelle,"  should  be  used  for  packs  and  outside  sleeping  bags.  Pack  your 
stuff  in  these  sacks  as  nearly  50  pounds  in  each  as  possible.  Number 
the  sacks  and  keep  a  list  of  their  contents.  Such  necessaries  as 
matches,  candles,  etc.,  should  be  divided  among  several  sacks,  so  that 
the  loss  of  a  portion  of  your  outfit  will  not  deprive  you  of  them  en- 
tirely. Put  your  matclips  in  tin  cans.  Put  a  roll  of  butter  in  the  mid- 
dle of  a  saok  of  flour.  It  will  keep  well  there.  Butter  keeps  best  in 
sealed  cans. 

Be  sparing  and  careful  in  using  your  supplies  and  do  not  waste  in 
cooking.  Keep  things  and  yourself  clean.  Cook  carefully  and  avcU 
and  you  will  be  in  better  health  for  work. 

Do  not  sit  around  after  becoming  heated  with  work  without  put- 
ting on  an  extra  coat  or  something  else.  Pneumonia  and  rheumatism 
await  the  one  who  neglects  this  advice. 

Do  not  wear  wet  clothing.  Dry  it  every  night.  Sheep  skin  sleep- 
ing bags  and  coats  are  not  desirable,  as  they  get  dirty  and  full  of  flees 
and  are  damp. 

A  little  vegetable  garden  can  be  made  In  sunnner,  and  such  seed 
as  beets.  cabbagcH.  radlslics.  lettuce.  turnli)H,  carrots,  etc.,  should  be 
taken.    Fresh  vegetables  are  a  bixury  and  a  preservative  of  health. 

A  sail  for  your  boat  iiiny  be  made  by  i)uttlng  eyelets  In  your  can- 
viis  tarpaulin  or  cover  for  supplies,  or  in  your  doul)le  sleeping  bag,  If 
you  take  one.     You  will  want  a  wooden  block  and  150  feet  of  rope. 

For  dog  sleds  tlio  best  that  can  be  had  are  the  reg\ilar  Esquhno 
dogs,  but  these  are  scarce.  The  best  to  be  found  In  the  States  arc 
Scotch  collies  and  long-haired  setters.  HIg  do^s  eat  too  much  and 
short  haired  dogs  are  useless, 

.Never  overdo  yourself  In  paeUlng.  but  stop  befon«  you  are  ex- 
hausted. It  Is  better  to  pack  small  (imiiitltles  at  a  time  and'  take  them 
only  a  short  distance.     In  this  way  .viiu  keep  your  outfit  together  and 


k, 


ALASKA.  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


71 


do  not  get  it  scattered  along  the  trail,  and  you  lieep  yourself  in  good 
condition  for  worli.  Pursue  the  same  policy  with  pack  animals  and 
dogs.  See  that  they  are  not  overloaded,  that  their  packs  are  properly 
adjusted  and  securely  tied,  that  no  saddle,  strap  or  wrinkle  in  a 
blanket  galls  or  chafes  them,  give  them  plenty  of  time  to  rest,  and  feed 
them  regularly.  The  better  care  you  take  of  your  animals  the  better 
work  they  will  do.  When  hungry  dogs  will  chew  leather  harness.  Can- 
vas harness  is  therefore  preferable  for  them.  Do  not  pack  a  horse  till 
you  learn  how.    Learn  to  make  the  diamond  hitch. 

Take  paper  to  write  on  and  stamped  government  envelopes,  both 
Canadian  and  United  States,  also  pen  and  ink  and  pencils.  A  few 
books  to  read  are  worth  their  M'eight. 

Of  quicksilver  you  will  want  about  five  pounds.  This  is  very  little 
In  bulk.  It  should  be  packed  in  an  iron  bottle,  so  that  there  will  be  no 
danger  of  breaking.  Be  careful  in  handling  it,  as  it  spills  easily.  A 
bottle  can  be  made  of  iron  pipe,  with  a  screw  top. 

Do  not  forget  that  the  old  adage  "The  more  haste  the  less  speed," 
is  still  a  good  one.  Get  the  best  advice  you  can,  but  take  advice  only 
from  those  who  speak  from  experience. 

Finally,  in  outfitting,  do  not  scorn  the  advice  or  assistance  of  the 
Portland  merchants  with  whom  you  trade.  They  have  experience  and 
knowledge  that  will  be  valuable  to  you  and  are  reliable  and  trust- 
worthy. 

PORTLAND  GROCERY  PRICE  LIST. 


Flour,  rbs  

Bacon,  lbs   

Beans,   ITis    

Sugar,  gran'led,  YbB  . 

Cornmeal,  lbs   

RoUetl  Oats,  lbs 

Rice,  lbs   

Baking  powder,  lbs. 
Yeast  cakes,  pkgs... 

Candles,  ms  

Pepper,   H)    

Mustard,  lb   

Ginger,   IT)   

Milk,  con.,  do/, 

Soap,  laundry,  bars  . 
MatclicM,  packages  . 
Butter,  RcnltMl  cmmh. 
Extraclbeef,2  oz  Jars 


(October  1,  1897.) 

Sup  pi 

es  for  etgbleen  months. 

600 

bl  $4.40 

Soups,   1T)S   20 

can 

.25 

300 

It) 

.09 

Tobacco,  as    desired. 

150 

lb 

.02% 

all  grades  in  stock. 

150 

lb 

.05% 

Klondike  sausage,  lb  20 

lb 

.10 

75 

lb 

.02 

Dried   beef,   lbs 20 

m 

.20 

75 

lb 

.03 

Lime  .lulce,  qt 1 

qt 

.40 

50 

lb 

.05% 

Quicksilver,   lbs    5 

lb 

.70 

12 

lb 

.35 

Kxnporated  fruits  ..100 

lb 

.07% 

8 

pk 

.05 

rruncH,  1T)8   50 

It) 

.06 

50 

m 

.10 

Uaislns,   1T)S   10 

lb 

.06 

1 

IT) 

.25 

Evai,.  potatoes,  lbs..  75 

lb 

.10 

% 

IT) 

.25 

Kvnp.   onions,   lbs...  75 

lb 

.40 

V* 

lb 

.25 

Dried   fish,   lbs 30 

It) 

.10 

6 

dz 

1.25 

Coffee.   1T)8    40 

lb 

.20 

fi 

lb 
pk 

.04 
.02 

Ten.   IT)M    5 

It) 
m 

35 

80 

Salt.   HiH    20 

.01 

.S5 

IT) 

.25 
4.40 

Soda,  ITiH   3 

lb 

.05 

2 

H 


J  ■ 


• 


nm 


72 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


PORTLAND  GENERAL  PRICE  LIST. 
(October  1,  1897.) 


Oregon  blankets,  10-lb.  .$8.50@10.00 

Heavy  leather  shoes 2.50@  4.00 

Gum   boots    3.50@  4.50 

Gum  boots,  leather  soles  5.50@  6.50 
Woolen  underwear,  suit  2.50@  5.00 

Woolen  shirts  L00@  2.50 

Woolen  socks,   pair 25@    .50 

Woolen  mitts   50@  1.00 

Leather  mitts,  wool  lined    .75@  1.50 

Mackinaw  coat   2.50@  4.00 

Mackinaw  pants   2.50@  4.00 

Overalls    50®    .75 

Overalls,   wool  lined 1,00®  1.50 

Towels    25®    .50 


Oilskin  suit 
Porpoise  shoestrings,  dz 
Sleeping  bag,  pelt-lined. 
Sleeping  bag,  Maclvinaw 

lined    

Sleeping  bag,  Aquapelle. 
Sleeping  bag,   Kenwood, 

tlire<»  pieces   

Rubber  blanket  

Rul)ber   blkt,  pelt-back.. 
Waterproof      sack      for 

clothing 


.90 
.40 
15.00 

10.00 
5.00 

13.00 
1.50 
2.50 

1.00 


Tieatlier 
lined 

Canvas 

Duck, 
lined. 

Woolen 

Woolen 

Soft 

Pelt 


coat,   corduroy 


coat,   pelt-lined.  5.00® 
coat,      blanket- 
rubber  sheeting 

sweater  1.00® 

cap  50® 

felt  hat 1.00® 

liood    


f  T'! 


Felt  boots    75® 

Pur  cap    2.00® 

Canvas  sacks,  50  rtis.doz. . 
Canvas    sacks,    100    lbs, 

per  dozen  

.\quai)ene  s'ks,  50  ITis,  doz . '. 
Canvas  outllt   cover  and 

sail.   7.\t0    

Wall  tent,    10x12.    ridge         ♦ 

rope    7.00® 

Merriam  pack    

Yukon  jiacklng  frame.. 
Manila    rope,   per   lb. . . . 

Hoiit  cotton,  per  It) 20'??^ 

Sal!    needles    {}2((fi 

Twine,    per   !b '. .     .2)® 

Oaktnn.  per  lb  


6.00 
6.00 

3.50 
3.00 
1.00 
3.00 
1.50 
1.00 
5.00 
3.50 

5.00 
5.00 

2.00 

9.00 
4.75 
3.00 
.08 
.25 
.05 
.30 
.10 


Pitch,  per  lb   

Oars,  per  foot   

Rowlocks,  per  pair 

Life  preservers   1 

Calking  iron    

Wood  blocks,    4-in.,  per 

pair   1 

Snow  slioes  

Yukon  stove  

Nest    camp    kettles,     3, 

steel   

Nest    camp     kettles,    3, 

granite    

Fry  pan,  steel   

Bake  pan   

Water  bucket,   granite.. 
Plates,   granite,   each... 

Plates,   tin.  three 

Cup  and  saucer,  granite. 

Cu)t.   tin    

Coffee  pot   

Knives  and  forks,  6  each 

Table   spoons,   doz 

Tea  spoons,  doz 

Large  si)oons,  two 

Hutdier  knife    

Driftlngpick  and  handle 
Round    point   shovel.... 

(iold   |)an   

Cold   scale    

Miignifying  glass   

Comixiss    

Goggles,  or  snow  glasses 

Shoe   calks    

Ciilk   set    

SiioeniaktM's"  outfit   

Whip  saw,  goose  neck.. 

Hand   saw   

.flick   plane    

Draw  knife  

.\xe,   with  extra   handle 

Cliiw  li.'Mchet    

Miimuier    

S(|Uiire    

Chisel.  Vz  inch   

Files   for  saws,   two. . . . 

Wlu'tstoii(>    

Nulls,  wire,  per  It) 

Nulls,  galvaidzed.  1T».... 
Hulibcr  cenient,  patches 

Garden   seeds   

Cliiilk  line  and  chalk... 


.04 
.08 
.25 
15@  1.50 
.50 

,65®  2.00 
6.00 
5.00 


.86 

1.60 
.86 
.20 
.86 
.20 
.20 
.80 
.10 
.86 
.46 
.20 
.10 
.26 
.45 

1.00 
.75 
.50 

1.25 
.50 

1.2i 

.50 

.26 

1.25 

6.50 

1.50 

.90 

.76 

1.25 

.60 

.60 

.40 

.80 

.SO 

.50 

.04 

.10 

.60 

.60 

.10 


.10® 


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O 

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Chapter  VIII 


Natives,  Missions  and  Towns 


Much  speculation  has  beeu  Indulged  in  by  scientists  as  to  the  origin 
of  the  native  tribes  of  Alaska,  particularly  the  Eslvinios,  or  Innults,  and 
those  occupying  the  southeast  coast  and  adjacent  islands  and  the 
islands  of  tlie  Aleutian  archipelago.  Whether  the  natives  were  driven 
west  or  north  from  the  more  easterly  and  soutlierly  regions  of  Amer- 
ica, or  emigrated  to  this  continent  from  Asia,  is  the  mooted  question. 
There  are  many  indications  that  the  Innnits  and  coast  Indians  at  least 
are  of  Mongolian  origin,  or  liave  liad  a  mingling  of  Mongolian  blood. 
Tlie  stature,  eyes.  jxTsonal  ai)iiearance.  complexion,  hair  and  i)ersonal 
characteristics  and  traits  of  tlie  Innnits  bring  them  closer  to  the  Jap- 
anese than  to  the  Indians  of  America. 

QMie  coast  tribes  are  a  very  imitative  people  and  have  great  slcill  in 
carving.  The  most  strilcing  objects  of  tlieir  artistic  sl;ill  are  the  huge 
totem  poles,  carved  from  cedar,  that  stand  in  front  of  their  houses. 
These  are  ancestral  coats  of  arms,  as  well  as  commemorative  tablets. 
Each  family  has  its  distinctive  crest,  such  as  the  whale,  beaver,  crow, 
eagle,  etc.,  and  the  blending  of  these  on  a  totem  constitute  a  genealogy. 
The  Indians  of  tiuecn  Cliarlotte  islands  carve  s''"'ler  totems  in  stone 
with  much  art  and  nicety.  All  Idnds  of  utensils  and  objects  of  utility, 
including  tlielr  liuge  canoes,  aic  carved  from  cedar  and  highly  orna- 
mented. 

Tlie  Indians  liand  down  tlieir  religion  and  liistory  by  oral  tradi- 
tions, They  lielieve  in  witchcraft,  and  tlie  witch  doctor,  or  shamin,  is 
a  iiowerful  autocrat.  Evil  spirits  are  exorcised  out  of  the  sidi,  accom- 
paided  often  by  the  life  of  the  invalid,  while  occasionally  a  witch  Is 
tortured  and  killed.  The  work  of  the  missionaries  and  the  strong  iiand 
of  tlie  government  are  doing  mncii  to  i>ut  an  end  to  the  power  and 
cruelties  of  the  sliainins.  ("rematiiHi  of  the  dead  is  universal  among 
tlie  trilies.  The  misslouiiries  are  trying  to  eradicate  tills  custom, 
thotigh  to  what  goo<l  jiurpose  is  not  t-lear.  When  not  cremated,  the 
bodies  are  usually  placed  in  boxes  or  canoes  in  a  sitting  position  and 
then  deposited  on  a  iiigli  point  or  far  tip  juiioiig  tiie  brandies  of  a  liuge 
tree,  surrounded  by  such  tilings  as  might  add  to  comfort  and  iiappiness 
in  the  spirit  land.  Eornu'ily  slaves  weri'  killed  uimhi  tlie  deatii  of  a 
clilef,  to  minister  to  lils  wants  in  tli(>  unknown  country,  (■annlballsm 
was  practiced  at  times,  more  as  a  religious  rite  than  for  pleasure,  or  by 
the  shamlns  for  tiie  ptirpose  of  gaining  control  ov<>r  spirits.  Indians 
are  inveterate  gamblers,  and  in  tlieir  native  game  (»f  sticks  often  lose 
all  they  possess,  Including  the  <'iotlies  (Ui  llu>ir  backs  and  their  scjuaws. 

They  are  expert   In   the   making  of   baskets   and   the   weaving  of 


! 


» 1 


: 
1 

* 
i 

11: 


y. 


74 


ALASKA.  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


blankets  on  a  hand  loom  from  the  wool  of  the  moimtaiu  sheep.  These 
are  Avell  made  aud  of  beautiful  pattern,  and  represent  six  months' 
labor  by  a  squaw.  They  are  sold  as  high  as  a  hundred  dollars  each, 
and  the  demand  has  so  outrun  the  supply  tliat  tourists  are  now  im- 
posed upon  by  articles  not  strictly  Renuine.  This  is  true  also  of  Alaska 
curios  in  general.  They  often  go  up  on  a  steamer  as  freight  and  return 
on  the  same  vessel  as  highly  prizeil  curios  in  the  possession  of  tourists. 
The  Indian  canoe  is  often  large  enough  for  40  men  and  is  a  tine  piece 
of  woi'kmanship.  They  generally  have  high  and  tinely  carved  prows 
and  sterns.  The  small  canoe  of  the  Eskimo  and  of  the  Aleuts  is  made 
of  skin  and  Is  called  a  kyak  or  bidauka.  The  Eskimos  make  a  large 
boat  of  skin,  called  a  oomiax,  with  mast  and  sail.  Wooden  canoes, 
totems  and  other  carvings  are  painted  red  and  black  with  a  paint  made 
by  them  from  a  soft  rock. 

In  Southeast  Alaska  the  Indians  live  in  board  houses  hewn  from 
trees  or  in  log  houses.  An  open  fire  is  built  in  the  center  of  the  room, 
on  a  gravel  foundation,  and  the  smoke  escapes  through  an  adjustable 
opening  in  the  roof,  made  to  suit  the  direction  of  the  wind.  Bunks 
around  the  sides  of  the  room  serve  for  beds  for  all  the  family.  The 
Aleuts  live  in  houses  which  are  partially  dug  out  of  the  ground  and 
partially  constructed  of  sod  aud  roofed  with  grass.  The  Eskimos  live 
in  housetj  built  of  logs  in  an  excavation  in  the  ground,  the  top  being 
level  with  the  ground  and  roofed  with  moss  and  dirt,  except  a  small 
space  covered  with  walrus  intestine,  so  transparent  as  to  serve  as  a 
window.  Entrance  is  had  through  a  passage  leading  from  an  adjoining 
excavation.  This  hut  is  air  tight  and  is  warmed  easily  by  a  lamp  of 
native  manufacture  which  burns  seal  oil  on  a  wick  of  cotton  gathered 
from  a  wild  shrub.  The  only  ventilation  is  had  by  the  hole  in  the  roof. 

On  the  route  by  the  passes  and  the  lakes  and  river,  the  gold-hunter 
will  encounter  10  tribes  of  Indians,  each  of  which  numbers  but  a  few, 
the  total  not  much  exceeding  1000.  The  most  numerous  and  po^yerful 
are  the  Chilkats,  or  Thlinkits,  along  Lynn  canal.  It  is  they  who  do  the 
packing  over  the  passes.  They  are  shrewd  and  tricky  and  have  to  be 
held  to  their  bi.rgaius,  but  tiiey  are  most  accomplished  packers  and 
have  proveil  indispensable  to  Yukoners.  When  railroads  or  tramways 
overcome  the  dittleulties  lying  between  the  coast  and  lakes,  the  Indians 
will  lose  their  importance  and  under  the  demoralisation  of  their  asso- 
ciations will  soon  disappear.  The  next  tribe,  the  one  coming  in  direct 
contact  with  the  Clilikafs.  is  the  Sticks,  and  beyond  them,  at  Intervals 
along  the  river  to  its  mouth,  tlie  other  small  tribes  are  located.  There 
are  a  number  of  missions  along  the  river,  aud  the  Indians  make  tliem- 
selvcs  useful  by  sawing  wood  and  doing  other  work  around  the  mis- 
sions and  trading  pcKsts.  They  used  to  depend  entirely  upon  tlsli  aud 
game  for  subsistence.  l)iit  now  they  excliange  furs  at  tlie  trading  posts 
for  supplies  of  food,  clothing,  li(iuor,  tobacco,  guns,  ammuuitlon  and 
ornaments.  On  the  lower  river  the  Indians  are  not  so  vigorous  nor  so 
skillful  in  hunting.  They  live  in  little  hovels  and  subsist  ui)on  tlsh, 
seal  oil,  berries,  etc..  and  are  t'Xtremely  tindean   In   their  hal)lts.    All 


ALASKA.  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


75 


communication  with  Indians  is  by  use  of  tlie  Clilnoolt  jargon,  tlie 
composite  language  used  by  tlie  Hudson's  Eay  Company  in  its  dealing 
with  the  natives  in  every  portion  of  North  America  where  that  com- 
pany has  done  business. 

MISSIONS  AND  SCHOOLS. 

Almost  from  the  earliest  settlement  of  Alaska,  missiouaries  have 
been  at  worli  among  the  natives,  beginning  with  priests  of  the  Greek 
church,  who  accompanied  the  convicts  sent  out  as  colonists,  followed 
by  Lutheran  ministers,  and  since  the  acquisition  of  the  territory  by  the 
United  States  by  representatives  of  the  Catholic,  Episcopalian,  Presby- 
terian, Methodist  and  Congregational  churches.  The  Russian  priests 
established  missions  at  various  points  along  the  coast  and  in  the  in- 
terior, but  they  did  little  towards  teaching  the  natives,  their  schools 
being  attended  chiefly  by  the  children  of  the  white  and  half-breed  em- 
ployees of  the  fur  company.  A  church  w^as  built  at  Sitka  which  is  one 
of  the  chief  objects  of  interest  to  tourists.  It  has  a  chime  of  bells  and 
its  altar  decorations  are  extremely  rich  and  elaborate.  It  has  sever;^l 
costly  paintings  set  in  frames  of  gold  and  silver,  that  of  the  Madonna 
being  especially  tine.  The  Lutheran  mission  was  established  in  1845, 
but  was  discontinued  when  the  transfer  of  the  territory  was  made  in 
1867,  the  Swedes,  Fins  and  other  Lutheran  employees  of  the  Russian 
company  having  departed.  A  Greek  priest  still  remains  in  charge  of 
the  old  Greek  church,  to  which  many  of  tlie  natives  belong. 

Real  missionary  work  begun  when  Dr.  Slieldon  Jackson  first  visited 
Alaska  in  1884.  Mrs.  A.  R.  McFarland  was  induced  by  him  to  begin 
teaching  tlie  natives  at  Fort  Wrangell.  A  few  years  later  she  located 
on  Prince  of  Wales  island,  where  she  is  still  doing  her  gootl  work.  In 
1885  Dr.  Jackson  was  appointtnl  general  agent  of  education  for  Alaska 
by  the  president,  and  has  continued  his  work  in  all  portions  of  tlie  ter- 
ritory to  the  present  time.  He  lias  established  schools  at  various  points 
and  has  apportioned  the  school  appropriation  made  by  congress  among 
the  s^iiools  establisiied  by  the  various  cliurches  at  their  missions.  It 
was  he  who  induced  the  government  fo  domesticate  reindeer  in  Alaska 
for  the  benefit  of  the  natives,  sometliing  wliich  now  promises  to  be  of 
still  greater  benefit  to  the  white  men. 

Tliere  are  missions  now  by  the  various  denominations  mentioned, 
both  along  the  coast  and  In  the  interior.  The  Catholis  iiave  a  liospital 
at  Juneau.  Tlie  government  supports  16  scliools,  wliile  tiiere  are  19  sup- 
ported by  tlie  missions.  Tiiere  are  tiiree  industrial  schools,  tluit  of 
WlUiani  Duncan,  at  New  Metiakahtla  being  the  most  important.  Tiie 
Presliyterians  iiave  one  at  Sitka  and  '  j  catholics  one  at  Koserefsky 
on  the  Yukon. 

THE  TOWNS  OF  ALASKA. 

Sitka,  tlie  Alaskan  capital,  is  situated  on  Baranott'  ishind.  and  was 
known  as  New  Arcliangel  by  the  HusHlans.  It  was  founded  by  Alex- 
ander Raianoft'.  tlie  autocratic  governor  of  tlie  Russian  Fur  Company, 


^i 


^/ 


76 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


1^ 


lu  1799,  and  tlic  capital  was  roiuoved  there  from  Kadlali  lu  1804.  With 
a  brief  interval  it  has  been  the  seat  of  government  ever  since.  Here  the 
United  States  ottlcials  reside.  The  white  population  is  about  500,  and 
the  natives  nunilter  nearly  twice  as  many,  living  In  a  town  by  them- 
selves. Besides  the  (Sreek  el  ..  ch,  the  chief  object  of  interest  until  it 
was  destroyed  by  tire  a  few  years  ago,  was  Baranoff  castle,  a  huge  log 
structure,  built  by  the  autocratic  Baranotf  in  1813.  The  industrial 
school  is  located  half  a  mile  from  the  city,  and  near  It  is  the  museum  of 
Alaska  curios  coUect.Ml  by  Dr.  Jackson.  A  weekly  paper,  the  "Alas- 
kan," Is  published  at  Sltka.  and  Is  the  oldest  in  Alaska.  The  mountains 
back  of  Sitka  are  very  picturesque,  especially  the  Alpine  peak,  Edge- 
cumb,  to  the  nortli,  and  add  much  to  the  charm  of  the  scenery. 

Though  not  the  capital,  the  chief  commercial  city  of  Alaska  is 
Juneau,  about  100  nines  north  of  Sitka  and  situated  on  tlie  mainland,  at 
the  foot  of  steep  motuitalns.  It  Is  the  chief  local  outlUt!ng  iind  starting 
point  for  ttie  Yukon  mines,  and  enjoyed  a  monopoly  of  the  trade  until 
tlie  rush  of  tlie  past  sniinncr  sent  gold-hunters,  already  ecinijjped,  by 
steamer  direct  t(>  Dyea  and  Skaguay.  .luneau  has  water  works,  electric 
ligiits.  sulistanllal  bididings.  cliurclies  and  wharves,  liotels  and  stores 
carrying  large  stocks  of  goods.  It  has  a  com-t  house  and  city  hall,  as 
well  as  sahtons,  nol\vltiistan<llng  the  Interdict  against  lUpior.  II  Is  the 
center  of  (lulte  extensive  <|uartz  and  plac(«r  mining  inieresis,  and  the 
famous  Treadwell  mill  and  ndne  are  but  two  miles  distant,  mi  Dougla.><s 
Island,  .luneau  has  a  varying  pupnlalion,  reaching  several  thousand  at 
times.  It  Is  a  favorite  wintering  place  for  ndners.  The  proposed  rail- 
road up  the  'I'aku  t(i  Lake  Teslln  Is  expected  to  terminate  at  Juneau. 
Thre(>  weekly  i»apers  thrive  and  Iind  busliu'ss  and  plenty  of  material 
for  their  lu'ws  columns.  First  called  llarrlsburg  and  then  Rockwell,  It 
was  In  1881  named  Juneau,  at  a  mir.ers'  meeting.  In  honor  of  Joseph 
Jum>au,  who,  with  Kidiard  Harris,  tliS'overetl  gold  then'  the  year  be- 
fore. 

The  other  towns  of  Soullienstern  Alaska  are  New  Metlakahtla,  on 
.\inielleisland,  nl  the  extieiiie  Noulheiii  bo\mdary,  and  I'orl  Wrangell.at 
the  nioulli  of  the  Sllckeen  river.  Tlie  former  is  ilie  Dinicau  mission  and 
Industrial  colony,  and  tiie  latter  was  formerly  an  Important  trading 
point  foi' t lie  miners  in  the  interior,  In  the  nortliein  portion  of  Itritisli 
Columbia,  It  has  a  nundier  of  stores,  a  church,  a  saw  mill  and  a 
Inlled  Slates  bonded  w  areiioiiHc. 

SI,  Paul,  on  Kadlak  Island.  500  ndles  west  of  Sitka,  has  always 
lit  en  an  Important  point  since  the  tlrst  settlement  of  the  territory. 
Here  Is  ilie  thief  sent  of  the  salmon  packim;  Industry.  I'nalaska.  or 
1  Mitch  Harbor,  Is  siinated  on  one  of  tlie  .Meiitlan  IslandK.  at  the  chief 
pass  through  them  on  the  voyagt*  to  the  ViiKon  o:  the  At'cttc.  .\  deputy 
collector  of  customs  and  a  comnilsNloner  are  Ntilltineil  here. 

St,  .Michaels,  on  the  Island  of  the  Miinie  n:ii  le.  Is  the  location  of  the 
trading  posts  and  siippl.v  depots  of  the  .Musi, a  Comiiierelal  t'ompany 
and  the  North  .\inerlciin  Trading  \  Transportation  t'oinpany,  .\s  the 
transfer  point  for  passengers  and  freight  to  iind  from  the  Yukon  steam- 


iiH 


Alaska  Indian  Shamiii,  oi  Witcli  Doctor. 


H 


U 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


77 


ers  it  has  now  become  a  very  imiiortant  place.  A  company  of  soldiers 
has  been  sent  there  and  it  will  probably  have  a  deputy  collector,  com- 
missioner and  postmaster. 

There  are  a  number  of  trading  posts  belonginie  to  the  two  com- 
panies along  th(>  Yukon,  the  cldef  point  being  Circle  City,  on  the  Yukon 
tiats.  It  was  founded  in  1894,  and  was  nametl  because  of  its  location, 
but  a  few  n)ilt's  s(mth  of  tlie  Arctic  Circle.  It  Is  the  commercial  point 
for  the  rich  mines  on  Kirch  creek,  as  well  as  other  mining  districts  on 
the  American  side  of  the  line.  In  1895  it  had  a  popul.ition  of  500,  '  .it 
in  1896  was  nearly  deserted  by  the  rush  to  the  Klondike.  However, 
the  minluj,'  Interests  on  the  American  side  are  too  lmi)ortant  not  to 
cause  Circle  City  to  Increase  conslderab'y  In  population  and  business. 

The  chief  points  on  the  Yukcm.  on  the  Canadian  side  are  Forty-Mile 
and  Dawson.  The  former  is  close  to  the  boundary  line,  150  miles  fnun 
Circle  City  and  50  miles  from  Dawson.  It  has  stores,  sal(M)ns.  opera 
house,  Itakerles,  and  several  breweries  and  distilleries,  all  built  of  logs. 
Near  It  is  Fort  Cudahy,  a  trading  post  of  one  of  the  companies.  As  to 
Dawson,  situated  In  the  .junction  of  the  YMdvon  and  Klondike.  Its  char- 
acter and  history  are  fully  given  in  the  second  and  third  <'iiai)ters.  Other 
towns  and  trading  points  will  doubtlessly  spring  up  as  new  mining  dis- 
tricts are  discovered  and  developed. 


Chapter  IX 


The  Mining  Laws 

One  going  to  the  Yukon  country  must  bear  In  n>lnd  that  on  tho 
American  side  of  the  boundary  line  the  mining  laws  of  the  CtdtcHl 
Htates  are  in  force,  wlille  tlie  Canadian  laws  govern  mining  in  Nortli- 
west  territory,  where  tiie  more  recent  discoveries,  an-  located.  Ab 
B(M>n  as  the  rnsli  to  tlie  Klondike  liegim  in  July,  the  Canndlan  govern- 
ment at  one«>  issued  supplenitMitary  mining  regulations,  given  in  full 
below,  by  which  each  allernale  claim  shall  belong  to  the  governnumt, 
and  a  royalty  )>•>  a  also  pniil  by  all  niitiers  en  tlu>  gold  taken  out  of 
their  elalniH.  Tlu>re  was  Instant  and  lou<l  protest,  both  by  AnH^rleiinii 
and  CaiiadiauH.  and  the  otilclals  were  advised  that  it  was  not  praelleni 
to  enforce  such  regulallons,  iiarllc\ilarly  llie  eoUei'llon  of  r(»yalty. 
However,  the  government  adhereil  to  Uh  decision,  und  has  pnblislied 
tlie  regnliitioiis  In  the  oillcial  gazette.  The  Canadian  iiiiiiiiig  laws  are 
as  follows,  all  the  legal  Ioiiiin  iiieiiti«ined  being  olilalnahle  fnun  the 
gold  et>ninilHNloner: 


78 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


MINIXCr  REOI'LATIONS  OF   NORTHWEST  TERRITORY. 


1.  "Bnr  dlfjsliigs."  a  strip  of  land  100  feet  wlfU'  at  high  water 
mark  and  theiioo  oxtonding  into  the  rivor  to  its  h)wi'st  water  level. 

2.  The  sides  of  a  ehiiui  for  l>ar  digging  shall  be  two  parallel  lines 
run  as  nearly  as  iiossible  at  right  angles  to  the  stream,  nnd  shall  be 
niarlved  by  four  legal  posts,  one  at  each  end  of  tlie  elaiui  at  or  about 
tlie  edge  of  tlie  water.  One  of  tlie  posts  iit  higli  water  niarlc  shall  bo 
legibly  nuirlted  with  the  name  of  the  miner  and  tlie  date  upon  which 
the  claim  was  stalied. 

3.  Dry  diggings  shall  bo  100  f(>el  s(iuare  and  shall  have  plaoe<l  at 
each  of  its  four  corners  a  legal  post,  upon  one  of  whleli  shall  be  legibly 
marked  tlie  name  of  tiie  miner  and  the  date  upon  which  tlie  claim 
was  staked. 

4.  Creek  nnd  river  clnlniH  shall  be  500  [reduetnl  to  100  feet  by  the 
new  regulations]  feet  long,  measured  in  the  direction  of  tlie  general 
course  of  the  stream,  and  shall  extend  in  Width  from  base  to  base  of 
the  hill  or  bench  on  each  side,  but  when  the  hills  or  benches  are  less 
than  100  f((>t  apart  the  claim  may  be  100  feet  In  depth.  The  sides  of 
the  claim  shall  be  two  i)arall«>l  Uiu's  run  as  nearly  as  possible  at  riglit 
angles  to  the  stream.  The  sides  shall  be  mavked  with  legal  posts  at 
or  about  the  edge  of  (he  water  and  at  th<>  rear  boundaries  of  the  claim. 
One  of  tlic  legal  jtosts  at  the  stream  shall  be  legll)ly  marked  wltli  the 
name  of  tlie  miner  and  the  date  upon  which  the  claim  was  staked. 

5.  Heiich  claims  shall  be  100  feet  square. 

G.  In  dellning  the  size  of  claims  they  shall  be  measured  horl/.on- 
lally,  Irrespective  of  intMpialllii's  on  tlie  surface  of  the  gmiind. 

7.  If  any  per.son  or  persons  HJiaii  discover  a  new  mine  and  such 
discovery  sliall  be  establlslied  to  the  satist'actlon  of  the  gold  commis- 
sioner, a  claim  for  bar  diggings  750  |  (Mliiced  by  the  new  regulations 
to  200  feet  and  made  to  apply  to  creek  and  river  cialmsl  feet  in  length 
may  be  granted, 

.V  new  stratum  of  auriferous  earth  or  gravel  situated  in  a  locality 
where  the  claims  .-ire  abandoned  shall  for  this  purpose  be  d(>eine*I  a 
new  mine,  allliougli  the  same  locality  sliall  have  liecn  previously 
worked  nl  a  illtVcrenl  level, 

8.  The  forms  of  ap|)llcatlon  lor  a  grant  for  placer  milling  and  the 
giant  of  the  same  slmll  be  those  contained  In  forms  "11"  and  "I"  In  the 
s<  licdiile  hereto. 

9.  A  elnliii  slinil  be  recorded  with  the  gold  commissioner  In  whose 
dislrh't  II  Is  situated  wlllilii  three  days  after  tlii<  hHatliui  thereur.  if  it 
Is  located  w  llliiii  ten  miles  of  the  commissioner's  otllc(>.  One  extra  da> 
uliiill  be  allowed  for  making  such  record  for  every  ten  miles  or  fraction 
thereof, 

|0.  Ill  the  event  of  the  iiliseiice  of  the  gold  coiiiiiiJNsiolier  fioiii  his 
otilee,  entry  by  a  claim  may  be  granled  by  tiny  person  whom  he  may 
appoint  to  perform  lils  (liitleH  In  his  nbseiice. 

II.  Entry  shall  iioi  lie  uiniMed  tor  ti  <'liiiiii  wlilcli  has  not  been 
Mtaked  by  the  applicant    In   person   in   the   manner  specllled   In   these 


ALASKA.  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


Ti 


regulntions.    An  nltidnvit  tliat  tlio  clniiu  was  staked  out  by  the  appli- 
cant shall  bo  (Miibodied  in  form  "H"  of  the  seliedule  hereto. 

12.  An  entry  fee  of  $15  shall  be  charged  the  first  year,  and  an  an- 
nual fee  of  $100  [reduced  to  $15  by  tlis  new  regulations]  for  each  of 
the  following  years.  Tills  |>rovision  shall  apply  to  looations  for  which 
entries  have  already  been  granted. 

13.  After  the  recording  of  a  claim  tlie  removal  of  any  i)ost  by  the 
holder  hereof,  or  by  any  jxTson  acting  in  his  l)elialf,  for  tlie  purjioso  of 
changing  the  iMmndarit's  of  his  claim,  siiall  act  as  a  forfeiture  of  tlie 
claim. 

14.  Tlie  entry  of  every  liolder  of  a  grant  for  placer  mining  must 
bo  renewed  and  liis  receipt  relliKiuislied  and  replaced  every  year,  the 
entry  fee  being  iiald  each  time. 

15.  No  miner  shall  receive  a  grant  of  more  than  one  mining  claim 
in  the  same  locality,  but  tlie  same  miner  may  iiold  any  numlier  of 
claims  by  jmrcliase,  and  any  number  of  miners  may  unite  to  work 
their  <-laliiis  In  common  ui»on  sucli  terms  iis  tliey  may  arrange,  pro- 
vided sucli  agreement  be  registt'ied  wltli  the  gold  commissUmer  and  a 
fee  of  live  dollars  lu>  paid  for  «>acli  n>glstralloii. 

16.  Any  miner  or  ml:iers  may  sell,  mortgage  or  dispose  of  lils  or 
their  claims,  providt'd  such  disposal  Ite  registered  with,  and  a  fe«>  of 
two  dollars  paid  to  the  gold  coiiimlssloiier.  who  shall  thei-eiipoii  give 
the  assignee  a  certificate  in  form  ".I"  in  tlie  schedule  hereto. 

17.  Every  miner  sliall,  during  the  continuance  of  his  grant,  have 
tho  exclusive  right  of  entry  upon  his  own  claim,  for  the  mlner-Uke 
working  thereof,  and  the  construction  of  a  residence  thereon,  and  shall 
1m>  entlticil  exclusively  to  all  the  jtroceeds  realized  tlierefiom;  but  lie 
shall  have  no  surface  rlglits  therein;  and  tlie  gold  commissioner  tuny 
grant  to  the  holders  of  ail.laceiit  claims  such  rlglit  of  entry  thereon  ns 
may  be  ai..<oliitely  necessary  for  the  working  of  their  claims,  iipou  such 
terms  as  may  to  him  seem  reasonable.  lie  may  also  grant  permits  to 
miners  to  cut  timber  thereon  for  their  own  use,  npoii  payiiiiMit  of  the 
dues  ]a'escrllie<l  by  the  regulations  In  that  behalf. 

18.  Every  miner  shall  be  entitled  to  the  uso  of  so  iimch  of  the 
water  nalnrally  llowlng  through  or  iiasi  his  claim,  and  not  already  law- 
fully appropriated,  as  shall.  In  the  o]iliiion  of  the  gold  commlsslonur. 
be  neeesHary  for  the  due  working  thereof;  and  shall  be  entitled  to 
draiti  Ills  own  claim  free  of  charge- 

lit.  ,\  claim  shall  lie  deemed  to  1m>  altandoiied  and  open  to  oeeti- 
pallon  and  entry  liy  any  pri's<in  when  the  same  shall  have  remained 
unworUed  on  working  days  by  the  grantee  or  by  some  |iers.>ii  on  his 
behalf  for  I  lie  space  of  se\enty  two  hours,  unless  slckiiiss  or  other 
I'easonalile  cause  be  shown  to  the  saUsiiiction  of  the  gold  commls- 
Mloner,  or  unless  the  grantee  Is  absent  on  leave  given  by  the  eomiiils- 
sloner,  and  tli<>  u'old  eoinmlssloiier  upon  oliialnlng  e\'ideiiri>  satisfac- 
tory to  himselt  that  tlih  pi'o\  Islon  Is  not  being  complied  with  may  cuu- 
eel  the  entry  given  fttr  a  claim. 


!t 


«l 


80 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


20.  If  the  laud  upon  which  a  ehiim  has  been  located  Is  not  the 
property  of  the  crown,  it  will  be  necessary  for  the  person  who  applied 
for  entry  to  furnish  proof  that  he  has  acquired  from  the  owner  of  the 
land  the  surface  rights  before  entry  can  be  granted. 

21.  If  the  occupier  of  the  lands  lias  not  received  a  patent  there- 
for, the  purchase  money  of  the  surfaqe  rights  must  be  paid  to  the 
crown,  and  a  patent  of  the  surface  rights  will  issue  to  the  party  who 
acquired  the  mining  rlglits.  Tlie  money  so  collected  will  either  be 
refunded  to  tlie  occupier  of  the  land,  when  he  is  entitled  to  a  patent 
therefor,  or  will  be  credited  to  him  on  account  of  payment  for  land. 

22.  When  the  party  obtaining  the  mining  rights  to  lands  cannot 
make  an  arrangement  with  the  owner  or  his  agent  or  the  occupant 
thereof  for  the  acquisition  of  his  surface  rights,  it  shall  be  lawful  for 
him  to  give  notice  to  tlie  owner  or  his  agent  or  the  occupier  to  appoint 
an  arbitrator  to  act  with  another  arbitrator  named  by  him,  in  order  to 
award tlieamountof  compensation  to  whicli  the  owner  or  occupantshall 
be  entitled.  Tlie  notice  mentioned  In  tills  section  shall  be  according  to  a 
form  to  be  obtained  upon  application  from  the  gold  commissioner  for 
the  district  in  which  tlie  lands  in  (luestion  He,  and  shall,  when  practi- 
cable, be  personally  served  on  such  owner,  or  his  agent  If  known,  or 
occupant;  and  after  reasoiialile  efforts  have  been  made  to  effect  per- 
sonal service,  Mitliout  success,  tlieii  such  notice  shall  be  serve<l  by 
leaving  at,  or  sending  by  registered  letter  to,  the  last  place  of  abode 
of  the  owner,  agent  or  oi-cupaiit.  Sucli  notice  shall  be  served  upon  the 
owner  or  agent  within  a  perhul  to  be  llxed  by  the  gold  commissioner 
before  the  expiration  of  the  time  limited  In  such  notice.  If  tlie  pro- 
prlei'or  refuses  or  (ieclliies  to  iii»iK»lnt  an  arbitrator,  or  wlieii.  for  any 
other  reason,  no  arbitrator  Is  appolnteil  by  the  proprietor  In  the  time 
limited  llierel'or  In  tlu'  notice  provided  for  by  this  section,  the  gold  com- 
missioner for  the  district  In  which  the  lauds  In  »iuestlon  He,  shall,  on 
being  satisfied  by  atlldavlt  tliat  sueli  notice  has  come  to  the  knowUnlge 
of  such  owner,  agent  or  occupant,  or  that  sueli  owner,  agent  or  occu- 
pant wilfully  eva<lcs  the  service  of  sudi  i  otlce,  or  cannot  be  found, 
and  that  reasonable  efforts  have  been  made  to  effe<'t  such  service,  and 
that  the  uoth'e  was  left  at  tlie  last  iilnce  of  alxxle  of  such  owner,  agent 
or  occiq)aiit,  appoint  an  arbitrator  on  Ins  behalf. 

23.  (a).  All  the  arbitrators  appointed  under  the  autliorily  of  these 
regulations  shall  be  sworn  before  a  Justice  of  the  peace  to  ilie  Impar- 
tial discharge  of  the  duties  assigned  to  them,  and  they  shall  forthwith 
proceed  to  estimate  tlie  reMsonabl(>  (hiiiiages  which  tlie  owner  or  occu- 
pant of  such  lands,  acfonling  to  tlidr  several  Interests  therein,  shall 
sustain  by  reason  of  such  pi'im|iectiiig  and  mining  oiterations. 

(bi.  In  estimating  such  damages,  the  arbitrators  .shall  determluu 
the  value  of  the  land  lrr»>spectlvely  of  any  enhancement  therefrom 
from  the  e.\lstt>nce  of  mlticials  therein. 

Id.  In  cast-  such  arbllraloiN  cannot  agree,  they  may  select  a  third 
arbitrator,  and  when  the  two  arbitrators  cannot  agree  upon  u  third 


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ALASKA.  THE  NEW  ELDOKADO 


81 


ivrbitnitoi-,  the  gold  coiiiniissioiKJr  for  the  district  hi  which  the  lands  in 
(luestlon  He  shall  select  Huch  third  arbitrator. 

(d).  The  award  of  any  two  such  arbitrators  made  in  writing  shall 
be  final,  and  sliall  be  Hhnl  witli  the  gold  commissioner  for  the  district 
in  which  the  lands  lie. 

"Bar  diggings"  shall  mean  any  part  of  a  river  over  wliich  the 
water  extends  when  the  water  is  in  its  flooded  state  and  which  is  not 
covered  at  low  water. 

Mines  on  bendies  shall  b(>  Icnown  as  "bench  diggings,"  and  shall, 
for  the  purpose  of  defining  tlie  size  of  such  claims,  be  exempted  from 
dry  diggings. 

"Dry  diggings"  sliall  mean  any  mine  over  wliidi  a  river  never  ex- 
tends. 

"Miner"  sliall  mciin  a  male  or  female  over  the  age  of  eighteen,  but 
not  under  that  age. 

"Claim"  sliall  mean  tlie  personal  riglit  of  property  in  a  placer  mine 
or  diggings  during  the  time  for  which  the  grant  of  such  mine  or  dig- 
gings is  made. 

"Legal  post"  shall  mean  a  staice  standing  not  less  than  four  feet 
above  the  ground  and  sipiared  on  four  sides  for  at  least  one  foot  from 
tiie  top.  The  sides  so  sipiared  sliail  measure  at  least  four  indies  across 
the  face.  It  shall  also  mean  any  stump  or  tree  cut  off  or  squared  or 
faced  to  the  above  heiglit  and  size. 

"Close  season"  sliall  mean  tlie  period  of  tlie  y(>ar  during  which 
pla<*er  mining  is  generally  susi)i'iide(l.  'i'iic  jx'riod  to  be  tix«Ml  by  the 
gold  commissioner  in  wlio.se  district  tlie  daiiii  is  situated. 

"Locality"  shall  mean  tli'.>  territory  along  a  river  (tributary  of  the 
Yniion  river)  and  its  adiuenls. 

"Mineral"  siiall  include  all  minerals   wliatsoever  otlier  tlian  coal. 

In  any  cases  arising  t'oi-  wliicii  no  provision  is  made  in  tiiese  reg- 
ulations, tlie  i»rovisions  of  llie  regulations  governing  the  disposal  of 
mineral  lands  other  than  coal  lands.  ai>proved  by  his  excellency  the 
governor  in  council  on  I  lie  91  li  of  Novemlier.  1889,  sliall  apply. 

The  reguiatioiiN  foiiiinlated  by  the  Dominion  government  covering 
the  collection  of  a  royalty  on  gold  mined  in  the  Yukon  are  jaibllshed 
in  tlie  oHldal  gazette  Just  Issued,     'i'iiey  are  as  follows: 

"Tliat  upon  all  g()i<i  mined  on  the  da  1ms  referri'd  to  In  tiie  regula- 
tions for  the  government  of  placer  mining  along  the  Yukon  riv«'r  and 
its  triltutarles.  a  royally  of  10  per  cent,  sluill  be  levied  and  colIectiMl 
by  olllcers  to  l>"  ai»point(Ml  for  the  puriiose.  provided  tiiat  the  amount 
mined  and  taken  out  from  a  single  claim  d(H's  not  exceed  $500  per 
week,  and  In  rase  the  amount  mined  and  taken  from  any  singh>  claim 
does  (>xcecd  $500  per  week,  there  shall  be  levied  and  <*ollectetl  a  roy- 
alty of  ten  per  cent,  upon  the  amount  so  taken  out  up  to  $500,  and 
upon  the  ex<eHs  or  amount  taken  from  any  single  dalin  over  $500  per 
week  there  shall  lie  levied  :iiid  collected  a  royally  of  20  per  cent.,  such 
royalty  to  form  part  of  (lie  lonsolldated  rc\eiiue.  aiui  to  be  accounted 
for  by  IheotHcers  wlio  collt>cl  the  sanu'  in  tine  course. 


1^! 


1, 


I 


t 


82  ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 

"The  time  and  manner  in  which  royalty  shall  be  collected  and  the 
persons  who  shall  collect  the  same  shall  be  provided  for  by  the  regula- 
tions to  be  made  by  the  gold  commissioner,  and  that  the  gold  commis- 
sioner be  and  is  hereby  given  authority  to  malie  such  regulations  and 
rules  accordingly. 

"That  default  in  payment  of  such  royalty,  if  continued  for  ten 
days  after  notice  has  been  posted  upon  the  claim  in  respect  of  whicli 
it  is  demanded,  or  in  tlie  A'iclnity  of  sudi  claim,  by  the  gold  commis- 
sioner or  his  agent,  sliall  l)e  followed  by  the  cancellation  of  the  claim. 

"That  any  attempt  to  defraud  the  ciown  by  withholding  any  rev- 
enue thus  provided  for,  by  malving  false  statements  of  the  amount  taken 
out,  may  be  punisliable  by  cancellation  of  the  claim  in  respect  of  whicli 
such  fraud  or  false  statements  have  been  committed  or  made,  and 
that  in  respect  of  facts  as  to  sucli  a  fraud  or  false  statement  or  non- 
payment of  royalty,  the  decision  of  the  gold  commissioner  shall  be 
final." 

The  regulations  governing  the  disposal  of  placer  mining  claims 
along  the  Yukon  river  and  its  tributaries  are  amended  so  that  entry 
can  only  be  granted  for  alternate  claims,  known  as  creek  claims,  bench 
claims,  bar  diggings  and  dry  diggings,  and  that  the  other  alternate 
claims  be  reserved  for  tlie  crown,  to  be  disposed  of  as  may  be  decided 
by  the  minister  of  the  interior. 

Tlie  penalty  for  trespassing  on  a  claim  reserved  for  tlie  crown  is 
immediate  cancellation  by  tlie  gold  commissioner  of  any  entry  and 
entries  which  the  person  trespassing  may  have  obtained,  wliether  by 
original  entry  or  l»y  purcliase  for  a  mining  claim,  and  the  refuanl  by 
the  gold  commissioner  of  tlie  acceptance  of  any  application  wliich  tlie 
person  trespassing  may  at  any  time  make  for  claims,  and  that  in  addi- 
tion to  sucli  penalty  tlie  mounled  police,  upon  recpilsition  from  tlio  gold 
commissioner  to  tliat  effect,  may  take  tlie  necessary  steps  to  eject  the 
trespasser. 

UNITED  STATES  IMININCJ  LAWS. 


r.: 


Tlie  Act  of  Congress  of  May  17,  18M'.  providing  a  civil  government 
for  Alaska,  provides  (iiat:  '"I'lie  laws  of  tlie  United  States  relating  to 
mining  claims  and  (lie  riglils  iiiciiient  tlierelo,  sliall,  from  and  after 
tlie  passage  of  this  act,  Ik*  in  full  force  and  elVect  in  said  district." 
Tile  fnrtlier  mining  laws  )ippllciil)le  are  as  follows: 

Thiited  Stales  IJeviscd  Slatiiles.— Sec  2318.  In  all  cases  lands  val- 
ualde  for  minerals  shiill  lie  reservcHl  from  sale,  except  as  otherwise? 
dir«'cted  l>y  law. 

Sec.  2319.  All  viihiiililc  inliienii  (Ifposlts  in  lands  lieloiigiiig  to  the 
United  States,  both  suiveycd  iind  uiisuiveye<l,  are  herel)y  declared  to 
bo  free  and  open  to  e.\i>lorall(Hi  and  punliase,  and  the  hinds  In  which 
tiiey  ar(!  found  to  occupiilion  and  imicliase,  b.v  citl/,(>ns  of  tluv  United 
States  and  those  who  have  declared  their  int<>ntion  1o  lu'conie  such, 
under  regulations  piescrllied  Ity  law,  and  according  to  the  local  cus- 
toms or  rules  of  miners  In  tlie  several  mining  districts,  so  far  as  the 


. 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO  M' 

(isime  are  applicable  and  not  inconsistent  with  tlie  laws  of  the  United 
States. 

Sec.  3230.  Mining  claims  upon  veins  or  lodes  or  quartz  or  other 
rociv  in  place,  bi^avins  gold,  silver,  cinnabar,  lead,  tin,  copper,  or  other 
valuable  depo.sits  heretofore  located,  shall  be  governed  as  to  length 
along  the  vein  or  lode  by  the  customs,  regulations,  and  laws  in  force 
at  the  date  of  location.  A  mining  claim  located  after  the  tenth  day  of 
May,  eighteen  hundred  and  seventy-two,  whether  located  by  one  or 
more  persons,  may  e(|ual,  but  shall  not  exceed,  one  theusand  five  hun- 
dred feet  in  h'ugth  along  the  vein  or  lode;  but  no  location  of  a  mining 
claim  sliall  be  made  until  tlie  di-scovery  of  tlie  vein  or  lode  within  tlie 
limits  of  tlie  claim  located.  No  claim  shall  extend  more  than  three 
liundred  feet  on  cacli  side  of  the  middle  of  the  vein  at  the  surface,  nor 
sliall  any  chiim  be  limited  liy  any  mining  regulation  to  less  than 
twenty-live  feet  on  eucli  side;  of  the  middle  of  the  vein  at  the  surface, 
except  wlien>  adverse  riglits  existing  on  the  tenth  day  of  May,  eight- 
een liundicd  and  seventy-two,  render  such  limitation  necessary.  The 
end  lines  of  eacli  claim  sliall  be  parallel  to  each  otlier. 

Sec.  2322.  The  locators  of  all  mining  locations  heretofore  made  or 
wliicli  sliall  hereafter  be  made,  on  any  mineral  vein,  lode,  or  ledge, 
situated  on  the  public  domain,  tlieir  lieirs  and  assigns,  where  no  ad- 
verse claim  exists  on  the  tenth  day  of  May,  eighteen  hundred  and  sev- 
enty-two, so  long  as  tliey  comply  with  the  laws  of  the  United  States, 
and  with  state,  territorial,  and  local  regulations  not  in  conllict  with  the 
laws  of  the  United  States  governing  tlieir  possessory  title,  shall  have 
tlie  exclusive  riglit  of  possession  and  enjoyment  of  all  the  surface 
included  witliin  tlie  lines  of  tlieir  locations,  and  of  all  veins,  lodes,  and 
h'dges  llirougliout  their  entire  depth,  the  top  of  apex  of  whicli  lies 
insidi'  of  sucli  surface  li;ies  extended  doAvnward  vertically,  although 
such  veins,  lodes,  or  ledges  may  so  far  depai't  from  a  perpendicular 
in  tlieir  course  dowuAvard  as  to  extend  outside  the  vertical  side  lines  of 
sucli  surface  locations,  lint  their  riglit  of  possession  to  such  outside 
parts  of  sucli  veins  or  lodes  shall  be  confined  to  such  portions  as  lie 
between  vertical  jilanes  drawn  downward  as  above  described,  through 
the  end  lines  of  tlieir  locations,  so  continued  In  their  own  diroctiou 
tliat  sucli  planes  will  intersect  such  exterior  parts  of  such  veins  or 
ledges.  And  iiotliing  in  tliis  section  sliall  authorize  the  locator  or  pos- 
sessor of  a  vein  or  lode  wliich  extends  in  its  downward  course  beyond 
the  vertical  lines  of  his  claim  to  enter  upon  tlie  surface  of  a  claim 
owned  or  possessed  by  another. 

Sec.  2324.  Tlie  miners  of  each  mining  district  may  make  regula- 
tions not  ill  ((tiiliict  with  liie  laws  of  the  United  States,  or  with  the 
laws  of  llie  state  or  territory  in  which  the  district  is  situated,  govern- 
ing the  location,  manner  of  recording,  amount  of  worli  necessary  to 
licid  possesion  of  a  milling  claim,  subject  to  tlie  following  require: 
meiits:  Tlic  location  must  be  distinctly  niariu'd  on  the  ground,  so  that 
its  boundaries  can  be  readily  traced.  All  records  of  mining  claims 
iiereafti-r  made  sliall  contain  the  name  or  names  of  the  locators,  the 


i 


:    ; 


84 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


date  of  the  locntion,  aufl  such  descriptlou  of  the  claim  or  claims  located 
by  reference  to  some  natural  object  or  permanent  monument  as  will 
Identify  the  claim.  On  each  claim  locatetl  after  the  tenth  day  of  May, 
eighteen  hundred  and  seventy-two,  and  until  a  patent  lias  been  issued 
therefor,  not  less  tlian  one  Iiundred  dollars'  wortli  of  labor  shall  be 
perforuunl  or  Improvements  made  durinR  each  year.  On  all  claims 
located  prior  to  tiie  tentli  day  of  ^lay,  eiyliteen  iiundred  and  seventy- 
two,  ten  dollars'  worth  of  labor  shall  be  performed  or  improvements 
made  by  the  tentii  day  of  June,  eigliteen  hundred  and  seventy-four, 
and  eacli  year  tliereafter,  for  each  one  liundrwl  feet  in  lengtli  along  the 
vein,  until  a  patent  lias  been  issutnl  tlierefor;  but  where  sucli  claims 
are  lieid  in  common,  sucli  expenditure  may  be  made  upon  any  one 
claim;  and  upon  a  failure  to  conijily  Avitli  tliese  conditions,  the  claim 
or  mine  upon  wliidi  sucli  failure  (K-curred  shall  be  opened  to  relocation 
In  tlie  same  manner  as  if  no  location  of  the  same  had  ever  been  made: 
Provided  ,That  the  original  locators,  tlielr  iieirs,  assigns,  or  legal  rep 
resentatives,  liave  not  resunuMl  worlv  ui)on  tlio  claim  after  failure  and 
before  sudi  location.  l'i)oii  tlie  failure  of  any  one  of  several  co-owners 
to  coiuribute  his  proportion  of  tiie  expenditures  required  liereby,  the 
ce-owners  who  liave  pertorined  tlie  ialmr  or  made  tlie  improvements 
may,  at  tlie  explrati(m  of  tlie  year,  give  siurli  delinquent  co-owner  per- 
sonal notice  in  writing  or  notice  by  publication  in  the  newspaper  pub- 
llslied  nearest  tlie  claim,  for  at  least  once  a  weelc  for  ninety  days,  and 
if  at  rlie  expiration  of  ninety  days  after  such  notice  in  writing  or  by 
publication  sucli  <leliii(iuent  siiouid  fail  or  refuse  to  <(mtribute  his  pro- 
jiortion  of  tlie  expenditure  recpiired  liy  tliis  se(;tioii.  Ills  interest  in  the 
claim  sliall  liecome  tlie  pr^iti'ity  of  his  co-owners,  wlio  have  made  the 
expenditures. 

Sec.  2336.  Wliore  two  w  i.iore  veins  intersect  or  cross  each  other, 
priority  of  title  shall  govern,  and  such  prior  location  shall  be  entitled 
to  all  ore  or  mineral  coii(../ii'  d  within  the  space  of  intersection  but 
tlie  subs(!(iuent  location  siiali  have  the  right  of  way  through  tlie  space 
of  intersection  for  ilie  jiurpose  of  the  convenient  woriilng  of  tlie  mine. 
And  wliere  two  or  more  veins  unite,  the  oldest  or  in-lov  location  sliall 
talve  the  vein  below  the  point  of  union,  including  all  the  space  of  inter- 
section. 

Sec.  2335.  A  patent  for  any  land  claimed  and  located  for  valuable 
d(!positH  may  be  olitained  In  the  following  manner:  Any  person,  asso- 
ciation, or  corjiorat  Ion  authorized  to  locate  a  claim  uiaier  tills  chapter, 
liaving  claimed  and  located  a  i»iece  of  land  for  siu-li  purposes,  wlio  has, 
or  have,  complied  with  tlie  terms  of  tliis  chaiiter,  may  tile  in  tlie  proper 
land  otilce  an  aiipilcntlon  tor  a  itiilciit.  under  oatli.  showing  such  com- 
pliance, together  with  a  pint  and  lleld-notes  of  the  claim  or  claims  in 
common,  made  by  or  under  the  direct hm  of  the  United  States  Sur- 
veyor-<;i'iieral.  showing  a<(iirately  the  liouiidaries  of  the  claim  or 
claims,  wlilcli  shall  lie  distinctly  marUdl  iiy  iiionnments  on  the  ground, 
and  shall  post  a  copy  of  such  (ilat,  together  witli  a  notice  of  sucli  appli- 
cation lor  a  patiiil,   lii  a   coiispicuoiis  place  on   the  land   t-mbraced  In 


"5. 
U 


4" 


wrmmi^'mmmmm 


I 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


85 


such  plat,  previous  to  tlu»  filluR  of  the  iipplicntioii  for  n  pntiMit,  luul 
shall  tile  an  attiduvit  of  at  least  two  persons  that  such  notice  lias  Ikhmi 
duly  posteil,  and  shall  file  a  copy  of  llie  notict>  in  sucii  land  ottice,  and 
shall  thereupon  be  entltUnl  to  a  patent  for  tlie  land  in  tlie  manner  fol- 
io..ins:  llie  re|i?ister  of  tl>e  land  ofiice,  upon  tlie  llliiiK  of  sncli  appli- 
cation, plat,  field-notes,  notices,  and  attidavits,  sliall  puliiisli  a  notice 
that  such  application  has  Imh'u  made,  for  tlie  period  of  sixty  days  ,in  a 
newspaper  to  be  by  him  designated  as  puldisiied  nearest  to  siicli  claim; 
and  lie  sliall  also  post  such  notice  In  liis  ollice  for  the  same  i»eriod 
Tile  claimant  at  tlu-  time  of  liliiiK  ids  application,  or  at  any  time  tliere- 
after,  within  sixty  «lays  of  publication,  sliall  tlie  with  tiie  register  a 
certificate  of  the  T'nited  States  Surveyorticiieral  tliat  $500  wortli 
of  labor  has  been  exiieiided  .»n  iiii|»roveiiiciils  made  uiiou  the 
«'lalm  by  himself  or  grantors;  that  tiie  piat  is  correct,  with  such  further 
descrlpti(»n  by  sm-li  relcreu  •<•  to  natural  ol),|ects  or  peiiiiaiieiit  iiKmu- 
ments  as  sliall  identify  tl:  •  claliii,  and  fnriiisli  an  accunile  description, 
to  be  iiicoiiiorated  In  tlie  patent.  At  tiie  expiiation  of  rlie  sixty  days 
of  jtubiication  tlie  claimant  shall  tile  ids  atlidavlt,  showing  that  tlie 
jilat  and  notice  liave  lM'<>n  posted  In  a  conspicuous  (tlace  on  the  claim 
dining  such  period  of  piililication.  If  no  adverse  claim  shall  liav(>  lie(>n 
llU'd  witli  tlie  register  and  the  receiver  of  the  proper  lanit  olHce  at  flie 
expiration  of  the  sixty  days  of  publication.  It  shall  )><■  .issiimed  that  the 
a|>pllcant  Is  entitled  to  u  ,i,!tent.  upon  llie  ptivnient  to  the  |ii'o|icr 
otticer  of  tiv<'  dollars  per  acre,  and  that  no  adverse  claim  exists;  and 
thereafter  no  objection  from  third  parties  to  the  Issuance  of  a  patent 
shall  b<>  heard  except  it  be  shown  that  the  a|ipli(iinl  has  failed  to  coin- 
ply  Willi  the  terms  of  this  chaitter. 

Sec.  u;52V.  The  dcs(  ripllor  of  vein  or  lod<  chilms,  upoji  siu'veyed 
lands,  shall  designate  the  hxatloii  of  the  claim  with  reference  to  the 
lines  of  the  public  surveys,  but  need  not  conform  tlierewith;  but  where 
a  itateiil  shall  be  Issued  for  claims  upon  iiiisiirveyed  lands,  tli(>  sur- 
veyor geiii'ial.  In  extending  the  surveys,  shall  adjust  the  same  to  the 
boiindtirles  ot  such  paient<>d  claim,  according  to  the  plat  or  d<>scrlptioii 
therof,  liut  so  as  In  no  <ase  to  Interfere  „l;ii  or  cliange  tlii'  location 
of  any  stich  paten;->d  claim. 

Act  of  CongreHS  of  .laiiuary  22.  1R80.  .\ii  .\el  to  .Kmeiid  seetlmis 
tw«>nly-three  hundred  -ind  twenty-four  atio  twenty-three  liundred  ami 
twenty  live  oi'  the  Hevlsed  Statutes  ef  the  riille<I  Slates  concerning 
mineral  liiiids. 

Melt  eiiacleil.  elc..  That  section  twenty-three  liundred  niiil  twenty- 
live  of  the  Hevlsid  Staiites  of  tin  rnlted  Slates  be  ameiii'ed  by  adding 
hereto  the  lolliiw  hig  words:  "rinvlded,  Tliat  where  the  chilmant  for 
a  patent  Is  not  a  resident  of  or  wllhin  the  land  distrlcl  wherein  Hie 
vein,  lode,  ledge,  or  deposit  siiii^lit  to  be  palente<l  Is  located,  the  iippll 
cation  for  patent  and  the  alDdavlls  reipilred  to  ;>e  made  In  this  Hcctiun 
by  the  chiliii.iiit  for  such  patent  may  be  made  by  his,  her,  or  Its  aiilh 
orlxed  agent,    vliere  siihl  agent   In  ciuiwrHant   with  the  facts  snught  to 


1 1 

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86 


AT.ASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDOnADO 


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bo  estnblisliLMl  l)y  said  iiriidiivits:  And  itrovldt'd,  That  this  soction  shall 
iipitly  lo  all  applicalioiis   now   iiciidiiij;'  l"i)r  patcnls   to  niincriil  lands." 

Sec.  2.  Tlial  scrtioii  twcuty-tliiTc  hinidri'd  and  twi-nty-fonr  of  tlic 
Kt'vi8»»d  Stntidi's  oC  tlic  rn'tcd  States  be  anioiuled  by  adding  tlicroto 
tlu'  followin;;  words:  "rrovldcd.  'I'liat  liu'  pt'riod  witliin  wlilcli  tlit' 
worlv  nMiniri'd  lo  lie  done  annually  on  all  nnpatcntod  claims  sliall  coni- 
nicnce  on  (he  first  day  ot  .lannary  snccccding  the  diito  of  location  of 
such  claim,  and  liiis  section  sliall  apply  (o  all  claims  located  sinc(>  tlie 
tenth  day  of  Aiay,  Anno  Dondni  ei>,'.iteen  liundrcd  and  seventy  two." 

Act  of  ("oiifiress  of  Febniaiy  11,  1875. — \n  act  to  anieid  He  '"U 
two  thousand  tiirce  hundred  and  Iwenty-fonr  of  llie  Heviscii  ■-!»<  '»- 
rehitinj:;  to  tlie  development  of  tlu'  ndning  I'esources  of  ilie  t  <  .K.'d 
States. 

He  it  enacted,  etc..  That  section  two  lliousand  tliree  hundred  .iiid 
twenty-lour  of  the  Revised  Slalutes  of  Ihe  I'ldted  States  be,  and  'iio 
same  Is  hereby,  amended  so  that  where  a  person  or  com|»any  has  or 
ma.v  run  a  tunnel  for  the  iiurpose  <if  developing  a  lo<le  or  lodes,  owned 
by  said  person  or  coniiiaiiy,  the  money  so  e.\iu>nde(l  In  said  tunnel  shall 
be  taken  and  considered  as  expended  on  said  lode  or  lodes,  whether 
located  prior  lo  or  since  the  passa;:e  of  said  act,  and  such  person  or 
company  shall  not  be  recpilred  to  perform  work  on  the  surface  of  said 
lode  or  lodes  in  order  to  hold  the  siime  as  require<l  by  said  act. 
Itaye  la.) 

rnlled  Stiiles  l-aw." See.  2323.  Where  a  tunnel  is  run  for  Ihe 
development  of  a  vein  or  lode,  or  for  the  discovery  of  mines,  the 
owners  of  such  tunnel  shall  have  the  rlvthl  of  pctssession  of  all  veins  or 
lodes  willdn  three  thousand  feet  from  the  face  of  sucli  lunnet  on  the 
line  thereof,  not  previously  known  lo  exist,  discovered  in  such  tunnel, 
to  Ihe  same  extent  as  If  discovered  from  the  sun  ;■;  and  locations 
on  tlie  line  of  su<  h  tunnel  of  veins  or  lodes,  not  appearing  on  llie  siir 
lace  .made  liy  oilier  parlies  after  the  coiniiKMiceinent  of  Ihe  tunnt'.,  and 
while  tlie  same  Is  belliK  piosecuied  with  reasonable  diligence,  shall  be 
Invalid;  but  failure  to  proseciile  Ihe  work  on  the  tunnel  for  six  months 
shall  bt>  considered  as  an  abandonment  of  tlie  riKlit  to  all  undiscovered 
veins  on  the  Hue    >f  sudi  iuihk  1. 

Sec.  2:12!).  ClalniH  usually  called  "placers."  lucludii.  '  tirms  of 
tieposll,  except liiK  vi  Ins  of  ipiarl/.,  or  other  rock  In  phice  ,Hhnll  he  sub 
Jeet  to  entry  and  patent,  under  like  elrcumsiances  and  <-ondilions,  aii' 
upon  slndlar  pid<  eedliiKs,  as  are  provided  for  vein  or  hxle  claims;  but 
where  Hie  lands  have  been  previously  HlM'M'ye<l  by  the  I'lilltd  Stales, 
the  entry  In  Its  exterior  llnilis  shall  conform  to  the  le^al  Si.lMilvlslens 
of  the  public  lands, 

I'lilletl  Slates  Law-  See.  2330.  I.e^al  MdMllvlsIci'  i|  forty  acres 
may  lie  subdivided  Into  I'U  acre  tracts;  and  two  or  u.ori'  imm'soiih,  or 
assiKlalloUH  of  pt'i'soiis,  having;  contluuous  rlalms  oi'  iin.v  hI/.c.  although 
such  claims  may  be  less  than  ten  acres  each,  may  make  Joint  entry 
theivof;  hut  no  loeiitloiijif  ii  placer  elalin,  iiitide  after  lht>  ninth  day  of 


i 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELOOUADO 


87 


July,  pi^urciMi  IiuiidnMl  jind  scvciily.  slinll  (^xcccd  one  IhiikIihmI  niid 
sixty  ncrcs  for  any  one  pi  rsou  or  nssociiitioii  of  iMTsttiis,  which 
location  shall  conform  to  tlio  T'nitod  Stiit«>s  surveys;  and  nothin^i:  in 
this  section  contained  sliall  (icfeat  or  ini|iair  any  l)ona  fide  pre-emption 
or  liomestead  claim  upon  agricultural  lands,  or  anllioriz(-  the  sale  of 
the  imi»rovements  of  any  Iii)na  tide  settler  to  any  purciuiser. 

See.  2331.  Wliere  placor-chiims  are  upon  suiveyed  lands,  iiud  coii- 
foi'iu  to  lefial  sulidivisions,  no  furtlier  survey  or  plat  sluill  lie  re(iuire<l, 
and  all  placei"  iidniu^i'  claims  located  after  tlie  teiilli  day  of  May,  ei>;lit 
een  hundred  and  s(>veiity-t\vo.  sliall  couforiu  iis  near  as  iiractlcable 
will)  tlie  I'niled  Slates  system  of  jtulilic  l:mil  surveys,  .lud  tlie  rectan- 
K'.'.iiir  snl)divisions  of  sudi  surveys  for  eacli  idividual  claimant;  but 
v.liere  placer-claims  cannot  be  conformed  to  ley;al  subdivisions,  survey 
and  plat  shall  be  m;ide  as  on  vinsurveyed  lands:  :ind  where  by  the 
sejiicjralion  of  ndncriil  lands  in  any  lepil  subdivision  a  (piiiiitity  of 
agricultural  laud  less  than  forty  acres  renniins.  such  fractional  por- 
tions of  a>:ricultur;il  l.-ind  may  1m>  entered  by  iiuy  party  (piiililled  by 
law,  for  homestead  or  i(re-t>mption  puri)oses. 

I'ldted  Slates  I<mw. — Sec.  2333.  Wliere  tie  same  iierson.  assooln- 
tiun,  or  corporation  is  in  iiosHessioii  of  a  plac(>r-claini,  and  :il<o  a  vein 
ov  lode  Included  within  the  boundaries  thei'eof.  aiiiiliciitio'.i  sliall  be 
made  fiM'  a  patent  for  the  placei' cl.-ilm.  with  lhi>  slalen.ent  that  it 
Includes  such  vein  or  lode,  and  in  sui'h  case  a  |tatent  shr.ll  Issue  for  a 
placer-claim,  subject  to  (he  i»rovlslous  of  tliis  diapler.  Im-ludinn  such 
vein  or  lode,  'ipoii  the  paynieut  of  live  dolla's  per  acre  for  such  \cln  or 
lode  claim,  aufi  Iwcniy-llve  feel  oi  suifan  nn  ea<'h  side  thereof.  Tlii- 
reinaiuder  of  tlie  placer cliilin,  or  any  plarrdfilm  uol  cinbrachi;:  any 
x'cin  or  lode  claim,  shall  be  |iald  foi-  at  the  rale  of  I  wo  dollars  and  llfty 
cents  per  iicre,  to^'elher  with  u\\  costs  of  proceedlntrs;  and  whcic  a  vein 
or  lode,  such  as  described  In  sedlon  I wenly  three  hundred  .-ind  twenty, 
Is  liiiown  to  exist  within  ,iie  boinidaries  of  a  placer  claim,  an  applica- 
tion for  M  patent  for  such  p'i.eer-claim  v  hhii  does  not  incltitle  an  appli- 
cation for  the  vein  or  lode  claim  sh-,11  be  conslrned  as  a  conclusive 
decia rat  1)11  that  the  clalirant  *f  111'  placi>r  claim  has  no  riulil  of  pos 
hohmIoii  of  ihe  vein  or  lode  claim;  but  wheie  the  exlHtenee  of  a  vein 
or  lode  ill  a  placer  (  i.iim  Is  not  liuown.  a  patent  for  the  placer  claim 
Hhall  convey  all  valuable  mineral  and  other  deposits  within  the  bouu 
•liirleH  thereof, 

I'nKed  Stales  I,aw.  See.  2332.  Where  such  person  or  assocladon, 
they  and  their  urantors,  have  held  and  worked  their  claims  for  a 
period  ei|ual  to  Ihe  time  prescribed  by  the  statute  of  llmilatloiis  for 
mining  claims  of  the  state  or  territory  where  ihe  Hnme  miiy  he  hU- 
uated,  evidence  of  such  possession  and  wiukiiiK  of  the  clalniH  for  such 
pi'iiod  shall  be  snlllclent  to  establish  a  riKht  to  a  patent  thereto  under 
thiN  chapter.  In  the  nliKeiiee  of  any  adverse  claim;  but  nolhinu:  In  this 
chapter  shall  be  deemed  to  Impair  any  lien  which  may  have  attached 
In  any  way  whatexer  to  any  nilninu  cliilm  or  property  thereto  allaehed 
proir  to  the  iHNuaiice  td'  a  patent.  ' 


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S8 


ALASKA,  THE  NEW  ELDORADO 


Uniti'd  Stiit«'.s  Law.— Sec.  2321.  I'roof  of  cltizeushii),  mder  this 
ehiiph'i  limy  consist,  in  tlio  ciiso  of  an  individual,  of  Ids  own  affidavit 
tlioruof;  in  tli«  caso  of  an  association  of  persons  unincorporated,  of  tlie 
affidavit  of  tlieir  autliorizcd  iigent,  made  on  Ids  own  linovvle<lge,  or 
ui)on  information  and  belief;  an<l  in  tiie  case  of  a  corporation  organized 
under  tlie  laws  of  tlie  linite<l  States,  or  of  iiny  state  or  territory  there- 
of, by  the  filing  of  a  certlfiiil  copy  of  tlieir  charter  or  certificate  of 
incori      sHon. 


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